Need Help With DSMlink Cruise/Idle Tune

[zckry]

Guys, I am getting really really frustrated trying to tune my GSX on closed loop.
I have been following the directions perfectly on the DSMlink Tuning Guide (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/262460-basic-dsmlink-tuning-guide.html) yet I can't seem to either get my fuel trims right or my airflow right.
After doing another log last night, I found my timing is super high on cruise.
And I'm getting small counts of knock because of the timing (not to mention the motor feels like crap).
I haven't messed with any MAF comp values above 150 because the guide never mentioned it, I don't know if I need to or not.

I need your guys' help because DSMlink is still learning process for me.

I attached the log I had last night, mostly cruise with 2 WOT pulls near the end.

Mods:
Galant VR4 6-bolt motor swap
Ported E3 exhaust manifold
B16G Turbo
2.5" intercooler piping
Spearco FMI
Injen intake
Forced Performance MBC
3" straight TBE
ACT 2600 PP
GReddy Oil Cooler
Fluidine radiator
580cc PTE injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Stainless fuel line from pump/tank to rail
AN fittings at fuel rail
Paxton FPR
DSMLink v2
AEM Uego wideband

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I'm also running the stock 2G MAF

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I would say it looks pretty good. From what I've read, the Airflow per rev thing is just a rule of thumb mostly. If your MAF is hacked, that would pretty much explain the inconsistency. What you did seems to have worked great. I see that you only insreased the airflow sliders at the low airflow, and that makes sense because the air probably stalls across the MAF worse at lower volume, but closer to normal at higher volume.

Your fuel trims look great, how does it feel?

If everything seems alright, I would drive it a little harder. Also not to be a wiseass, but you're running a little hot now.

Edit: Oh I see that the temp only started going up when you stopped, mine does that too. I think I'm going to wire up my A/C fan to come on with my cooling fan.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

And by drive it a little harder, I don't mean WOT yet, but just to log some trims at higher levels. Can you log LTFT Hi on a 2g, or is that only on the 1g.


I didn't see it in the list of available values, so I assume you can't. In which case, that looks good. Drive it a little faster, or 55 in 4th gear for a little bit, and see if your STFT pegs or anything.

 

[zckry]

Haha yeah it's getting warm so I stopped for awhile.
It feels kinda wierd to me still because of the high timing but I think it's just all in my head.

I'll do another log with higher numbers in a bit and post it.

And no only 1G's have the LTFT high.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

As long as the engine feels smooth, and like I said, your base timing is correct.

Don't worry, at WOT and under boost, your timing won't exeed 16-17% BTC at redline. There's a chart somewhere that shows the whole timing map. If I can find it, I'll post a link.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Here's a timing map from EVOscan software:
http://www.limitless.co.nz/EvoScan/images/MapTracer2.gif

As you can see on the left, timing gets really high when engine load is really low.

If you look at the right side of the graph, that's the timing map that's used at maximum engine load through the various rpms. That's the part of the map represented on the linear chart on DSMlink version 2.

If you have version 3, you can look at your true timing map by clicking the "direct live acess tab".

 

[zckry]

There are some higher MAF readings on this one.
Seems I'm a bit negative up higher.
What can I do to get the LTFT mid closer to zero?
Can I decrease the slider?

Also, my car almost stalled when I started it up, is that because the fuel trims still weren't fully adjusted or because my airflow is so low?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It looks like LTFT low starts to go a little negative when you idle for long enough too. I would do a few criuses to average things out, and make sure you get at least ten minutes of criuse, and five of uninterupted idle. If they both are negative 3 or 4%, then raise the global fuel 3 or 4%.

If the mid is more negative than the low, increase dead time.

If you can keep them within 5% of each other, that's pretty good, but I wouldn't let either be more than 4% plus or minus from zero.

Oh yeah, the stall was probably because it got so hot on the previous log, or because it hasn't zeroed in the trims yet. I wouldn't worry much unless it starts to happen more.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Just looking at your log some more, and I noticed a couple things.

1) The only time your trim is screwed up really, is when you go a steady 23 mph. STFT was pegged at 16.8, and your front O2 went flat.

2) I think you need to drive it harder to increase the airflow numbers. The only time you got above MAF raw of 200Hz was for a few seconds here and there. Most of the log was in the LTFT low range. The only time it stayed above 200Hz for a period of more than five seconds, it began to drop mid to -4 something, but later in the log it started to go up to -3 but airflow dropped below 200Hz again right as adjustments began.

In my car I have to go 65mph minimum to log any LTFT hi. It's a 1g so it only uses hi and low.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

By the way, have you ever used that MAF cleaner spray by CRC? It works miracles on sluggish airflow sensors.

Also, that lean area around 23 mph, it corresponds to a MAF raw reading of around 50Hz. I'm too tired to remember what that means to do with your 50Hz airflow slider. Up more I think? I'm going to bed.

I have to actually take a shower and go to work tommorow; I forgot to go today .

I hope I don't fire myself.

I'll still check this thread from work if you need any more help.

 

[zckry]

Hmm, I will do a more aggressive closed loop run tomorrow and see what kind of fuel trims it logs.
I drove it how I normally drive when cruising so yeah it's going to be a bit low.

Nah, I haven't used any kind of cleaner, I did just clean my filter thoroughly today when I was checking to see if my MAF was hacked.

 

[zckry]

New log up.
Just changed the global fuel a bit and the 50hz up one I believe.
Seems I'm getting real close to 0% for both trims
I did some larger MAF numbers this time colt.
Tell me if you think I should make some more adjustments.

And yes, I realize I was getting hot, letting it cool down for the rest of the day now.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I think your trims look great, better than mine actually. I see you got a little knock at 32% throttle but that might clear up if you get the temp down to 185-190. It doesn't look like much to worry about, it's only a raw knock count of 2 so it's not going to hurt you. I would try a 3rd gear pull.

 

[zckry]

I think your trims look great, better than mine actually. I see you got a little knock at 32% throttle but that might clear up if you get the temp down to 185-190. It doesn't look like much to worry about, it's only a raw knock count of 2 so it's not going to hurt you. I would try a 3rd gear pull.

I think I got them to be even better, at least for cruise I still need to work on idle.
My cruise fluctuates between 0% and .8% now depending on how hard I'm running the closed loop.
My idle is getting better and I'm close to 0% and idle at 900RPM's and I'm close to having .24AirFlowPerRev
I'll post one more log when I get them closer.

Thanks for all your help colt, the GSX is running much better and hopefully I'll start getting better gas mileage too.

Even though it's a small count of knock, I still would rather not have any, is there anything I can do about it like increasing the airflow in that area?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

.8 on your trims is pretty much perfect, and I'm not so sure you can get no knock under criuse conditions. From what I've read on the ECMlink forums, you don't have to worry unless you get above 4 counts of raw knock at WOT.

It's just something that happens. If you aren't under boost, it shouldn't be all that harmful in small doses.

Ps. You're welcome, glad I could help.