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DSMlink... Help with really bad tune

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MoarAWD

Proven Member
64
12
May 24, 2016
South Bend, Indiana
I'd like to start by saying that I have read ALL of the ECMlink tutorials, watched SEVERAL videos, and scoured this forum for similar issues. I would also like to say thank you to anyone who takes the time to really read this post.

The issue:
I recently bought a 2G GSX, and from talking to the previous owner before purchase, I was told the car had a basic tune for idle/cruise. Once I got the car home and starting taking a few logs, I quickly realized that this tune was nowhere near where it needed to be. After reading / understanding as much of the info as I could find about ECMlink, I took the laptop back to the car and attempted to fix the idle tune.

EVERYTHING from the tutorials that should change the CombFT and Airflow per rev causes either nothing to happen, or the values to just get worse. Unchecking the "Lock in Open Loop" box causes the car to sputter and shake violently. I'm unsure what to do now, because changing anything makes the tune worse. Can someone take a look at my first log and tell me if there are any glaring issues? The settings in the log are the settings from the previous owner, and I do not want to change anything until I know how to correctly fix the issue.
 

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you need to post a lot more information about your car. i think you have a bad ecu by the looks of the logging or a bad wiring job somewhere and messing with it.


but for starters, your sd isnt set up at all. Youve just got a 4 bar selected, but not setup to log on the pc properly. Youve got a hole in your sd mad. Your timing is about 6-7 degree too low for cruising. (i have mine at 35) Your tps isnt calibrated right. dk why you would want to disable idle switch while moving.
 
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Looks like you aren't telling the ECU about the wideband either in the "Front O2" it is still set to "factory". I also believe you have to "enable narrow bad sim" since the wideband is in the front O2 now, it will never see the voltage it wants to see. This could be causing the issue forcing you to lock in open loop.

Just my 2 cents.
 
You need to reset all the direct access back to the original settings to start. And you obviously did not follow many of the mechanical tuning tutorials as your throttle does not go to 100% and your TPS sensor does not read .63 volts with the throttle closed. these things should have been setup before the car even left the driveway.
 
You need to reset all the direct access back to the original settings to start. And you obviously did not follow many of the mechanical tuning tutorials as your throttle does not go to 100% and your TPS sensor does not read .63 volts with the throttle closed. these things should have been setup before the car even left the driveway.

Like I said in my first post, this is the tune from the previous owner. After failing to see the expected results from one of the ECMlink tutorials, I reverted back to the previous settings. Also, of course the throttle doesn't go to 100%, because I never went WOT as per the ECMlink walkthrough for an initial tune. The TPS was another issue I noticed and was trying to correct, but I didn't feel the need to address that in a post about airflow per rev and CombFT. Regardless, I've since parked the car due to the nightmare wiring job from the previous owner (wires twisted together and taped with no solder... not even a butt connector... the dash cluster lights dim when the headlights turn on, and stay on even when the car is turned off.... there are a lot more issues I found upon further inspection, too, but those are enough to prove the point).
 
As Evilgst suggested, revert back to original settings and basically start with a blank slate, Which means doing the mechanical things first, TPS, no boost leaks verified, base timing, The bad wiring may have something to do with it. I'd suggest get the car to a decent state mechanically and electrically.

And the changes that you're making via ECMlink using the tutorials aren't going to change much if you are forcing it to run in open loop while your making the changes, as the ECU is not "checking" on anything your doing. it's just assuming everything is okay and aiming for the values that you gave it, when you let it go into closed loop it sees that things are way out of whack and tries to compensate for things that are wrong, on top of the changes that you made, which is why it runs the way it does.
 
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I modified your DA table and put almost everything back to stock, if you load these settings through DA then we at least know to leave that section alone until you get the rest of it sorted out.
 

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Thanks to everyone for the replies. I spent the day working on the electrical issues, and I think I've zeroed in on most of the issues. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to finish fixing the abortion that is the wiring, and I'll use the settings from 19gsx91. I'll repost with the results.
 
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