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Really need help With base tune . willing to pay :/

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dabbdaddy

Proven Member
49
4
Mar 9, 2016
miami, Florida
whats up guys. so still with the struggle with my dsm. It is currently at a shop and they want to charge me $500 for a tune... if anyone can help i def will be willing to pay for your time. i reverted almost everything back to stock. before i start. here is the checklist.
1). No boost, vac, or exhaust leaks.
not a single leak, double checked everything is ok.
2). Verify mechanical timing.
no timing issues,
3). Verify base timing
5*
4). Ignition system
plugs right order/health
5). Motor health
passed compression test
6). Basic throttle body adjustments.
idle switch simulated thru link.
7). Compression ratio
stock ratio
8). Wiring and sensors
wb hooked up and working
9). No DTC/CEL codes
non at the moment
10). Electrical system
voltage okay
11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
stock injectors/pump/ 43.6 psi
12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
calibrated best i can
13). Type of fuel
93 octane

info before i start.. the car use to have 680 cc injectors and a safc. i swapped that to dsmlink and stock 450cc since it was running too rich i could smell the gas from the exhaust. it was running very rough untill i did a boost leak test and when i finished with all the leaks the idle is finally smooth. stays at about 800 rpms.
now only issue is its either running rich or lean . when driving and come to a complete stop it stalls out on its own.
below i have attached (or tried to ) 2 logs , 1st labeled today is closed loop and second open loop. im not sure if its supposed to go into open loop mode on its own but i had to manually put lock in open loop to get a log of it. not sure if it was needed. but please if someone can help me out with why my car is acting the way it is completely stock would be so appreciated and i would be willing to pay for a decent tune.
thanks so much in advanced for reading.
-nick
 

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“Free” advice comes at a cost of time, waiting for others to respond and so forth. That is available here but participation varies.

If you prefer to pay for remote tuning services, I would suggest browsing through the supported freelancer section of the classifieds.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forum/freelancer-products-services.225/

There are a number of remote tuners that have excellent feedback.
 
Thanks boosted beaver. Was not aware that there was a section for remote tuning , I will check that out now and send a few pms. Not a single clue what these guys normally charge tho and Someone like me can't turn down free advice and tips either so hopefully someone can chime in and maybe it isn't a problem with the tune maybe one simple setting or something I overlooked .
 
Are you simulating narrowband with a wideband sensor because you have that check to do so. You have cels for front and rear o2 sensors and a MDP sensor as well. Also, you need to adjust your tps to get it to be at .63v. Uncheck disable airflow smoothing w/sd option under the Misc tab.

Make those changes and post a log at idle with the car at temp of 186 or more. If you can running a wideband please log it as well.

Also, could you fill out the profile correctly with the plugs brand and gap, actual compression test results per cylinder, etc....
 
Are you simulating narrowband with a wideband sensor because you have that check to do so. You have cels for front and rear o2 sensors and a MDP sensor as well. Also, you need to adjust your tps to get it to be at .63v. Uncheck disable airflow smoothing w/sd option under the Misc tab.

Make those changes and post a log at idle with the car at temp of 186 or more. If you can running a wideband please log it as well.

Also, could you fill out the profile correctly with the plugs brand and gap, actual compression test results per cylinder, etc....

I would bet it has something to do with a bad o2 or a wrong setting with wideband simulation. Not on my laptop so I can't view the log but it sounds like an o2 issue to me.
 
The car is at the shop at the moment I'll have to go tomorrow morning . As for the wideband I do have one hooked up . I noticed when I did the first log my wideband was turned off because ground wire was loose . I have it set up to the front o2 . The rear o2 in on the bung that came with the thermal exhaust
 
I believe your wideband is not setup correctly and this is causing your issue. Under pin assignment you have factory/none chossen which should be set as wideband. This is why your o2 isnt cycling. Get that fixed and go from there. I now am on my laptop and was able to view your log. Also both of your o2 sensors are causing a CEL. This would defenitly indicate a problem with your o2 sensors
 
its not giving me the option under pin assignment to choose front o2 and set it to wideband. could this be i spliced the log wire wrong? if im not mistaken i put it into pin 74 which is front o2 correct?

so a quick update, i went to the shop to add the settings and grab new logs. The Biss screw looks like its not even there, or comepletly stripped so im not sure if i have to take throttle body out to get the biss out.
now my idle is really bad on a cold start, after 5 mins or so it evens out to about 900-1k rpms but still runs very rich.
here are a couple logs that include warmup, warmed idle, cruise and then idle after cruise..
would like to point out i had a significant amount of knock in the cruise log and i tried to stop climbing rps as soon as i saw it.
thanks again everyone in advanced for help
 

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update: replaced o2 sensor, old looked burnt out. still rich/lean spikes. added wb to capture now and these are latest logs i was able to pull . thanks
 

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Your battery voltage is NOT "okay" You need to have your charging system checked out, best advice is to head over to oreillys and have them test it....
Your battery voltage at idle should be around 14.5-13.7. A 1-2V decrease will affect your tune/fuel trims.
 
okay guys i have been out of town for a while and left my car at the shop in the meantime. The biss screw in the throttle body was epoxy'd for some reason so i couldn't get to it and isc position was stuck at 120, so I got a new throttle body. Idle is 100% better. biss still needs a little tweaking (52 average) . my only problem now is while driving i cannot hit boost or pass 3000 rpms, feels like I'm hitting a brick wall. i have done a boost leak test after throttle body replacement and no leaks. Im hoping it could be tune related or if its fuel pump from sitting too long or spark plugs from running rich for too long . as for the voltage im not sure why its still at 12.5, i had it charged before i left . alternator or belt going bad?

i was able to get a good log (30min cruise) driving back home from the shop. Did few maf comp adjust but would like someone to chime in again and see anything addition they can tweak or let me know about. really want to get my car running soon and would really appreciate anyones help.
 

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as for the voltage im not sure why its still at 12.5, i had it charged before i left . alternator or belt going bad?

Test the voltage of your alternator. Positive lead on the alternator, negative on chassis ground. Then check right at the battery posts. The alternator side should be slightly higher. If you are seeing 12.5 at the alternator and the battery then that is your issue. A healthy alternator should output at around 14.3v.
 
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