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Dsm gurus.......help please

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Marceldsm

10+ Year Contributor
321
2
Jan 13, 2010
Montreal, QC_Canada
FIST OF TANK YOU FOR ANSWERING


PLEASE ADMINISTATOR DONT GIVE ME A WARNING FOR MY BAD ENGLISH :sosad:
91 TALON TSI AWD

CAR IS PURE STOCK EXCEPT KHS CAMS

NEW WATER PUMP
NEW TIMMING BELT AND TENTIONER

EVERYTING DONNE BY A MECANIC


SO THE CAR DID A 600 MILE TRIP YESTERDAY AND IT WHAS WORKING........FINE

NEW I START THE CAR............ENGINE IS NOCKING
ENGINE IS UNSTABLE ............OK I TAKE IT FOR A SPEEN

CAR DOSENT WHANT TO REV PAST 2000 ITS ALMOST LIKE A REV LIMITER
THEN CAR STALLS

TRAING TO START CAR...........NOTHING
WHEN I PUT MY FOOT ON THE FLOOR ............CAR REVS TO 500 AND THATS IT
CAR SOUNDS LIKE A DEASEL

AND IF I LET OFF THE GAZ.............CAR DIES
IF I PUT THE CAR INTO GEAR CAR DOSENT GO ANYWHERE

WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON

TOOK THE SPARKPLUS AUT....NUMBER 4 LOOKS TO RUN REACH
NUMBER 3.2.1 PLUGS ARE SOCKED IN GAZ

NEED HEL
 
Possilby the coolant temp sensor is bad that would cause you to flood your injectors. Do you have a way to tune the car, logger perhaps. do boost leak test to find out for sure of leaks.
 
This sounds exactly like what happened to me when I blew off an intercooler pipe. Check every hose/pipe and clamp from the turbo outlet to the throttle body.
 
You sure you have the spark plug wires hooked in the right order to the coils?
 
ok so i verified
the intercooler pipeing the intercooler and all the vaccum lines i can see any sort of leak or someting like that everyting looks good
im tinking ignition problem by new

i know i have fuel

i did not do a compression test
or a boost leak test

When you say it "runs like a diesel" what do you mean? Could you take a short video and email it to me?

the car dosent realy run .............its just like its running on 1 piston
 
Sounds like you spun a rod bearing. The diesaling sound is rod knock. It would prevent you from revving high. Wont make boost. Its describing my occurence perfectly. Im sorry. You have my condolence.
 
Hard to tell from the description. CTS my be bad, fouling out the plugs, knock sensor seems to be pulling timing for some reason
 
Almost seems like this guy pretends he doesn't know how to spell or has bad english..

HKS is spelt the same in any language.. just saying..



My guess is there is a vacuum leak somewhere, you said the car was running fine for a 600 mile trip and then it started driving like crap..
 
Almost seems like this guy pretends he doesn't know how to spell or has bad english..

HKS is spelt the same in any language.. just saying..



My guess is there is a vacuum leak somewhere, you said the car was running fine for a 600 mile trip and then it started driving like crap..

Or maybe he accidentally hit the K before the H and didn't spell check? :p

My guess is the coolant temperature sensor. Unless its making a really bad knocking sound.
 
How aggressively did you drive it for this 600 miles? And was it straight through driving or did you take breaks?

110km/h around 65 milles per hour

we did made 2 stopes no problem tha car started right away no problem
so thats the ting i dont get loool


its almost that sound the ting is the car dosent run .....it runs on 1 piston if you have your foot on the gaz


update
new the car dosent start at all

timing looks good

Dif you make sure your oil levels were good before driving 600 miles? Also how many miles were on the engine when you drove the 600 miles?

oil level its perfect and there is new fresh oil
new water pumps
new tensioner and timming belt
everyting looks fine in the timming departament

so how can the engine work well and just die like that

millage is around 170000 km/ around 125000 mile the car is very well mentained

it looks like it whas never abused
there is almost no rust

so i just dont get it
 
:confused:
Drain your oil... Look for metallic flakes.

the car has been verified

i have spark
i have gaz
i have compression
i have timming


same story .......car stalls if my foot is not on the gaz
if foot on the gaz ....revs to 500 sounds like its gonna brake appart

if i go in gear there is no go


did i spun o rod ???
 
If you spun a rod bearing it would start more than likely. You would just here a really heavy knock. I would keep on looking at other things at this point.

Did you check if you have spark to all four cylinders or only one? I would check all four if I were you.

And with the timing, did you pull off the timing belt cover and make sure that the cam marks line up when the crank mark does? Or did you just pull the top cover and look at just the cam marks? Because that won't tell you if you are in time.
 
My girlfriends 90 jumped 3 teeth on the crank and it happened in a split second and sounds like exactly what you are describing. The car would barely start, wouldn't idle on it's own, and made a hell of a racket. I replaced all the timing components and did a leak down and compression test and non of the valves were bent so I fired the car up and it's been running fine for over 5k miles. Have you actually pulled your lower timing cover off to verify the timing? I highly doubt it since you keep mentioning insignificant things such as GAZ and WATER PUMPZ. Do yourself a favor and pull the lower timing cover off and MAKE SURE all the timing marks line up perfectly. There is a writeup on vfaq if you are unsure how to do this. If you find the timing marks all line up, it's more than likely going to get a whole lot more expensive.

EDIT: Do yourself a favor aswell and quit starting the damn thing, you're only making the situation worse.
 
My girlfriends 90 jumped 3 teeth on the crank and it happened in a split second and sounds like exactly what you are describing. The car would barely start, wouldn't idle on it's own, and made a hell of a racket. I replaced all the timing components and did a leak down and compression test and non of the valves were bent so I fired the car up and it's been running fine for over 5k miles. Have you actually pulled your lower timing cover off to verify the timing? I highly doubt it since you keep mentioning insignificant things such as GAZ and WATER PUMPZ. Do yourself a favor and pull the lower timing cover off and MAKE SURE all the timing marks line up perfectly. There is a writeup on vfaq if you are unsure how to do this. If you find the timing marks all line up, it's more than likely going to get a whole lot more expensive.

EDIT: Do yourself a favor aswell and quit starting the damn thing, you're only making the situation worse.

That is along the lines of what I was going to suggest. Except I was going to say check the timing belt tensioner. DSM's get real unhappy about being just a couple ribs off.
 
To reiterate and add to the few good suggestions in this thread (somewhat in order of simplicity):

1. Stop attempting to start the car and "putting your foot on the floor" until you get some more information.

2. Pull the spark plugs, and check for signs of pitting, breakage, or discoloration.

How To Read Spark Plugs

3. Visually check the timing (again). Inspect the timing belt, and make sure that all the marks still line up correctly.

4. Do a leak-down test... NOT a compression test. Cranking the motor over for a compression test will only make things worse if you have valve or bearing damage.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

5. Drain the oil and look closely for metal flakes, or signs of water mixing with the oil. Shine a bright flashlight on some of the oil at an angle and look for reflection off metallic particles, and strain some through a clean white cloth and see if anything gets left behind.

6. With the plugs out, turn the motor over by hand with a wrench on the crank bolt, and listen for any signs of interference or metal on metal contact.

7. Pull the valve cover and look for anything suspicious, such as rockers out of place, lifters discolored from excessive heat, etc.

8. Pull the oil pan and check the rods for play, and inspect everything possible for wear or breakage.

Take this route and then get back to us. ;)
 
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