Do's and donts of lowering AIT's

[awdtalon4451]

Whats up guys? I wanted to start this thread to uncover the do's and donts of trying to lower your IAT'S s so everyone would have a good starting point. I notice that sometimes my IAT'S will be 25-30* above ambient temps and this does not sit well with me.
I'm looking for specific ways you did or didnt lower your IAT''s and how well they worked, good or bad (brand of item if you choose) . Ei.. Shields, wraps, thermal coatings, fans, homemade concoctions, anything really, radiators?? I dont know if these help. So if you've suceeded or failed at this tell us about it. Post pic's if you have them.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Do not spray water on your air filter.

Do not use tin foil and duct tape as heat wrap.

Do not use cardboard as a heat blocker gasket for your intake manifold.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Do not route your air filter to the bottom of your front bumper. Or any where near the ground.

 

[awdtalon4451]

Bahaha kind of stating the obvious but its a start.

 

[silvreclips]

do not spray water on your air filter.

Do not use tin foil and duct tape as heat wrap.

Do not use cardboard as a heat blocker gasket for your intake manifold.

epic

 

[dexterholland04]

Hahahaha, hilarious. But in all seriousness...DSMers are pretty DIY. All of those ridiculous things have happened before!

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

When using an smic it is helpful to seal the ducting to the bumper. Also seal the sides of the ducting around the ic.

Redoing the fender liner behind it to allow more airflow instead of just having a wall will really help as well. Many different ways to do that.

Another thing is dirt retains heat. Polishing your smic will help its heat exchanging abilities.

When using intercooler sprayers (cheap ones anyways) making a screen for the water to spray through will help atomize the water better increasing the cooling affects of the sprayer. Just like fuel, the more atomization the better.

 

[toofast82]

Since i've had my srt4, i'm on my 3rd fmic and can comment on the differences i've seen because i was able to log both ambient air temperature and the actual charge temps entering the throttle body.

On the stock front mount, which is a nicely designed piece with very little pressure drop and flows well, just heat soaks very quickly. I've logged differences in a 3rd gear pull with starting at 80*, both ambient and charge and heating up to 140*+ just in same gear at

I then had a Spearco Direct fit front mount, which retains the crash bar and is a bar and plate versus stock tube and fin and about an inch thicker than stock. The stigma with this intercooler is that is said to flow TOO Good that the air isn't in the core long enough to cool the air as good as other direct fit units.. It basically cut the charge temps in half of the difference with the stock. so for instance at an 80* 3rd gear pull it would see maybe 110-120*, which isn't great still but still an improvement over stock

I currently have a modern performance bolt on "big" front intercooler that's 3.5" thick roghly twice as tall as stock. There are many 4-4.5" thick intercoolers on the market as well. This intercooler keeps temps at most 20* above ambient for a full pull and gets the job done.

And... The cooler the charge temps, you will reduce the detonation and will enable you to run more boost or timing or both and enable you to make more power.. This is especially helpful with trying to tune for pump 91-93. E85 or "race" gas thresh hold for detonation and cylinder cooling effect will be much better and in those instances can get away with an intercooler that maybe doesn't cool as well.

I've had the same effect in my years of dsms tuing with running stock, hahn sidemount and a few big front mounts, but just never really bothered to install an ait sensor at the time to log the differences between ambient and actual charge temps.

I'd have to imagine a good front mount should be able to absorb the intake temp heat difference between say a short ram or hot air intake versus a true cold air intake
The closer you can keep the charge temps to ambient temp the better, and a properly sized intercooler can definitely help get the job done

 

[boost97gst]

I dont have an IAT sensor(still on 2g maf.....at 60lbs/min btw) but i can tell you that the maf temp reading went down almost 10* this summer when i put my lower heat shield on. I do not have a cold air intake or anything either. Stock position spectre filter with no shrouding.

In the summer at 90-110* ambient temps, i was limited to roughly 43lbs on pump gas and evo8 mod1 timing tables. The hot air KILLS forced induction engines. Compare that to the 60lbs @ 30psi im getting now in 35 - 40* weather. Pretty big difference huh? Probably over a hundred hp difference on the butt dyno.

I think, aside from spending big money on an ETS, your best bet to efficiently and cheaply lower IATs is water injection. Thats the route i will be taking, especially for summertime use. I personally hate that in the winter i have a 450hp car and the summer its a 325hp car , water/meth will fix that issue for sure

 

[Boomdeeze]

I dont have an IAT sensor(still on 2g maf.....at 60lbs/min btw) but i can tell you that the maf temp reading went down almost 10* this summer when i put my lower heat shield on. I do not have a cold air intake or anything either. Stock position spectre filter with no shrouding.

In the summer at 90-110* ambient temps, i was limited to roughly 43lbs on pump gas and evo8 mod1 timing tables. The hot air KILLS forced induction engines. Compare that to the 60lbs @ 30psi im getting now in 35 - 40* weather. Pretty big difference huh? Probably over a hundred hp difference on the butt dyno.

I think, aside from spending big money on an ETS, your best bet to efficiently and cheaply lower IATs is water injection. Thats the route i will be taking, especially for summertime use. I personally hate that in the winter i have a 450hp car and the summer its a 325hp car , water/meth will fix that issue for sure

So at 60 lbs/min your at 450 hp?

 

[WES_393]

Do Not's:

-Cold air intake on a street driven car
-Water/Meth injection with the washer fluid pump and nozzles
-Wire mesh clamped to a stock location turbo
-Spraying the intercooler with water (CO2 and Nitrous are equally as pointless IMO)

Do's:

-A good FMIC and hard pipes.
-Removing and blocking the EGR valve.
-Adding ducting to the filter.
-Reducing engine bay temps by heat wrapping, venting, and ducting. (Also a strong cooling system)
-Properly removing FIAV coolant lines.
-Installing a heat barrier intake manifold gasket.

But ultimately you will never get below ambient temps with all these mods. Most DSMer's find themselves looking into E85 and Water/Meth injection to get more power out of their setup.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

I dont have an IAT sensor(still on 2g maf.....at 60lbs/min btw) but i can tell you that the maf temp reading went down almost 10* this summer when i put my lower heat shield on. I do not have a cold air intake or anything either. Stock position spectre filter with no shrouding.

In the summer at 90-110* ambient temps, i was limited to roughly 43lbs on pump gas and evo8 mod1 timing tables. The hot air KILLS forced induction engines. Compare that to the 60lbs @ 30psi im getting now in 35 - 40* weather. Pretty big difference huh? Probably over a hundred hp difference on the butt dyno.

I think, aside from spending big money on an ETS, your best bet to efficiently and cheaply lower IATs is water injection. Thats the route i will be taking, especially for summertime use. I personally hate that in the winter i have a 450hp car and the summer its a 325hp car , water/meth will fix that issue for sure

You are moving 60lbs/min at only 30psi on a 5858 in a .63A/R Mistu housing? (Per your profile)

I could see 50lbs/min.. maybe, and that would be more inline with your 450awhp estimate..

 

[Boomdeeze]

You are moving 60lbs/min at only 30psi on a 5858 in a .63A/R Mistu housing? (Per your profile)

I could see 50lbs/min.. maybe, and that would be more inline with your 450awhp estimate..

This is the same thought that I had.

OP- Good ducting to your filter will help a lot while controlling under hood temps.

 

[ed1380]

Do Not's:

-Cold air intake on a street driven car
-Water/Meth injection with the washer fluid pump and nozzles
-Wire mesh clamped to a stock location turbo
-Spraying the intercooler with water (CO2 and Nitrous are equally as pointless IMO)

Do's:

-A good FMIC and hard pipes.
-Removing and blocking the EGR valve.
-Adding ducting to the filter.
-Reducing engine bay temps by heat wrapping, venting, and ducting. (Also a strong cooling system)
-Properly removing FIAV coolant lines.
-Installing a heat barrier intake manifold gasket.

But ultimately you will never get below ambient temps with all these mods. Most DSMer's find themselves looking into E85 and Water/Meth injection to get more power out of their setup.

I can vouch for this.

 

[gixrman]

Don't paint your FMiC with household paint to try to go "stealth". Your IC needs direct contact with the air for proper heat transfer.

 

[Arthris]

Going to a water air inter cooler with a ice box an lower iat below that of ambient temps. You should not tune a car to runon a water/meth injection. It should only be used ensure a safe setup and allow room for error. As soon as u run out of fluid and have no way of instantly correcting ## afr and timing for that you will suffer engine damage as you will be tuned for the higher octane gain and cooler charge and also the extra fuel.

 

[boost97gst]

Guys, rough guesstimate on the horsepower. I do have a stock 2g maf and the comps are not too far off so it IS indeed near 60lbs. I have logged 62.7lbs but it may have been over 30psi...hehehe. My gauge goes to 30 psi but on that occasion it went a bit further. Couldnt have went much more though, at the very most it was at 33psi otherwise my IDCs would have been over 90%. I have ported the hell out of the mani and o2 housing, she screams.
The 450hp estimate: You think thats high or low if im truly flowing that much air? At a rock steady 25psi roughly 50-60* ambients i was showing 52lbs so its not much of a stretch to say that 30psi is 60lbs. Who knows but my maf is solid, no dtcs from it, no wacky hz jumps. I gotta believe it

The dyno will be the ultimate test. Perhaps next week ill run it up there when its nice and cold in the morning.

Oh, and if you can point me to any other member with the 5858 please do so i can PM him/her and compare. No one i know of yet on here has that turbo.

Just looked at log, mafraw is right at 3200hz @ 62lbs. That should definitively say whether or not im flowing that much air i would think. Boostest is actually near dead on at 33-35psi, just a bit optimistic but not too far off.

 

[My1GLaser]

Make ducting for your FMIC.

Header wrap on tubular O2 housing & DP, turbo blankets on exh mani & turbine housing, DEI reflective tape on IC pipes & SMIM, air filter in stock SMIC location.

 

[untouchablecc]

If you run your air filter in the stock location running ducting from the passenger side bumper hole up to the hole below the airfilter will help.

 

[Fotowntalon]

A good read, well mainly 'purty' pictures! and why I bought my turbo Blanket for lowering temps
Infrared camera fun (grimmspeed heatshield, PTP turbo blanket) - NASIOC

sorry for subaru

 

[awdtalon4451]

Well I broke my phone last week so I haven't been able to check up on this thread but wow there's some great info in this. This is going to be a great help for someone battling high AIT's.

A good read, well mainly 'purty' pictures! and why I bought my turbo Blanket for lowering temps
Infrared camera fun (grimmspeed heatshield, PTP turbo blanket) - NASIOC

sorry for subaru

Great find good sir!!! The before and after thermal imaging of his mods are sick. Hard to believe he dropped the temps that low.

 

[genegoesfast]

For gods sake it's IAT's. Intake Air Temps.

 

[awdtalon4451]

For gods sake it's IAT's. Intake Air Temps.

Wow! Chill bro, It's auto correct on my phone no need to get pissy.

 

[genegoesfast]

I'm not pissy. It's just driving me crazy. It keeps popping up on new posts. You know you can fix it right? If this thread is really to help anyone in the future, it should be re titled. No one will be able to search it because they're looking for IAT.

 

[awdtalon4451]

I'm not pissy. It's just driving me crazy. It keeps popping up on new posts. You know you can fix it right? If this thread is really to help anyone in the future, it should be re titled. No one will be able to search it because they're looking for IAT.

Lol yea I can see where your coming from. My phone auto corrects everything, its annoying. No I didn't know I could retitle it. I'll fix it, sorry bro