Doing headgasket. What else should I do?

[PewPew90Laser]

Somewhere is leaking A TON of oil, I think my oil feed line is spraying under pressure.
So I'm ripping off the head and doing the whole top end gaskets. What else should I do while I'm in there?
I've got timing belt on the list.

I'm going in for a block inspection, going to lap the valves and do stem seals.
I'll probably port the head and no I'm not going to use ARP head studs, yes I AM going to reuse the head studs.
I'm not going to use a MLS gasket, I'd rather have a gasket blow than bend a rod on a hard preignition. I've detonated pretty damn hard on a stock headgasket so it will be fine.

So, I don't know these motors very well. Any neat tips and tricks I can do to the block, head, turbo, manifolds or anything while they're off?

Oil pressure in this thing is way higher than my other cars, limited out the cheesy mechanical gauge that previous owner put on. 80 psi I think it was?

and what do I need to remove the head bolts?

Some cars need 6 point, some 12 point and some allen drive sockets...

 

[No_Skillz]

If I remember correctly, the stock bolts are 6 point. You don't want to reuse them. Once they are stretched they should be tossed. No harm in getting some new ARPs in there. They are 12 point. Also might as well do all belts, pulleys, and water pump, camshaft seals, valve cover gasket while stuff is apart. Not really any need to do stem seals and valve lap unless you are sure they are leaking or upgrading.

 

[PewPew90Laser]

I'm not paying for ARP's ridiculous pricing when the stock bolts are good to sub 10 seconds.
Pulleys, water pump and associated belts are recently replaced.

Any simple machining that yields a tangible benefit? Tips, tricks stuff like that. Every car has them...you know

REAL hotrodding. Not just ordering things from a catalog

 

[1997_GSX]

ARP studs are $83.00 I just sold some for $50 shipped. Stock bolts are garbage after they have been torqued once.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

I'm not paying for ARP's ridiculous pricing when the stock bolts are good to sub 10 seconds.

Can you link proof of that? Because as far as I know that much power (cylinder pressure) would for sure be lifting the head.

And if you are talking about either of the STM cars, those also had headstuds and were installed one at a time.

Like stated before, the headbolts are single use items. Mitsu basically made them so the proper tq spec would be stretching them a little. And honestly, about $100 isn't that expensive considering all the other things you say you are doing.

 

[ziggo0]

Not to mention they are re-useable and you don't really run the risk of stripping your block's threads out.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Exactly cheap insurance new bolts oem, too much when compared to my arps.

 

[dsm-onster]

ARPs are the cheapest insurance you can get for your block. It's not "parts racing". It's not overkill. I've stretched stock 6bolt head bolts with a non-professional tune with healthy flow.

With that said, all the above is wrong. Guys he has a 6bolt. First, the headbolts are reusble. Check the stretch and go. If they are within spec. Second, they have 10mm allen (hex) heads. Not 12 or 6 point heads.

If you're suspectign the oil feed line spraying oil, why pull it apart? If compression is good and if it doesnt overheat why fix something that isn't broken. Apparently the previous owner may already been in there and done the topend, as the very high oil pressure is indicative of a balance shaft delete. If you're going in to better what you have, not to actually fix a problem, then you SHOULD do things like install cheap arp head studs, and rering/rebearing; they're only a few hours and about $150 away from a full topend rebuild.

My suggestions:

1) With your topend rebuild, be sure to measure the valve spring pressure. Old springs get weak exponentially as time goes by. Fresh springs really wake up a motor, if you've been driving around with weak ones.

2) actually shim the stock springs if they are fresh .06" is good. Gives quite a bit of head room with stock springs to take 272s well past stock redline. No more than .06" though for the sake of stock valve seat geometry.

3) When you're doing the port work, focus on the valve seat lip and smoothing the bowl. That alone nets about 8-10percent gain in flow on the bench, click.

4) Don't be cheap, be thrifty. The arp head studs are very affordable and have taken stock 6-bolt blocks to 600whp. Considering all the other shortblock components can do up to 600whp as proven, why not balance it all out to tolorate the same. Afterall you don't need to go in there in the first place for a turbo oil leak.

5)Port the entry to the flapper hole to help the 14b not creep. Don't install a larger flapper. As you may want to run enough boost down the road that you'll blow it open. In fact just swap out the 6cm^2 turbine housing for a 7cm^2 16g housing. Must be MHI not chinese to get the 14b actuator to work. You'll now have a 16g turbine wheel with a 16g turbine housing and a 14b compressor that flows 34+ lb/min in typical ambient conditions. That's enough for quite a bit over 300whp.

6) Stock 450s will flow as much as 550s with the fuel pressure raised to 65psi base. And swapping in a walbro 255 HP fuel pump will give you enough flow to max them out even ith the 65psi base fuel pressure and over 25psi boost added to the fuel line pressure to maintain the same pressure across the injector. 550s are enough for 34lb/min which your 7cm^2 14 now can do. You must upgrade the fuel pump to see any results over 27-28lb/min. The 255hp is about the same cost as the 190 (Which in some cases still overruns the stock fuel regulator). And you must run an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator with a 255 pump. AFPRs are more affordable than fuel injectors anyway. You could get evo 560s, but you're limited to the wally 190 unless you get an AFPR anyway. And it may still overrun the stock FPR.

7) Swap out the stock fuel filter for a fuel injected ford piece with two barbed ends. The come in later 90 150s fuel injected mustangs and turbofords in the 80s for sure. Perhaps more. But this fuel filter will filter AND remove the restrictive banjo fitting off the top of the stock fuel filter, which is the most restrictive piece of our stock fuel line system.

8) Many have found that swapping to the 2g maf and 550s makes things run about perfect. The 2g maf transfer function cancels out the 550s rather closely. The stock 1g maf overruns at about 30lb/min. The 14b can flow as much as 34lb/min or more. When the maf overruns, it starts to skip hertz counts (drops counts). The ecu sees less volume flow and pulls fuel. Not very good when you're running 23-24psi with pumpgas and an overworked 14b compressor. Extraordinary lean conditions will occur. But a 2g maf can see upwards of 50lb/min and not drop counts. Remember, you'r 450s are at 65psi and flow about like 550s.

9) Get a cam upgrade. Even a little 14b can benefit greatly from our silly small stock cams. Again don't be cheap, be thrifty. Delta Regrinds are half the cost of new cams. Their h264 and h272 profiles are proven to be very similar to the real hks version.

10) Stock intercoolers are pathetic. But at least clean them out with kerosene (NOT gasoline) and try to get all the bugs out while straigtening the extenal fins with tweezers. Remove the flood lamp. For all automobiles, the wheel spinning actually causes a pressure drop in the finderwell (Click); in our case, behind the intercooler and through the venturi effect air is drawn through the intercooler. Removing the guard behind it would really. Location isn't that bad as the supraside mount guys get away with alot of boost and good results even with turbos being pushed to their limits like the 14b and 16g.

*****EDIT: 11) Don't crush your amazing 1g bypass valve, that others would by from you for $60 untouched. Do the "Dodge Garage Mod".

 

[BogusSVO]

since you want to pull the head, first thing to do is measure the thickness of it, new head thickness is 5.200 (AREA spec) with a min spec of 5.185 any thinner than that, get a thicker HG
you will want to check it for warp...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

before you have the head surfaced, you may want to do this oil port mod...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

if the head need surfaced, DO NOT let the shop belt surface it!!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

no matter which HG you choose, composite or MLS, your surface finish should look like this....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

you said you were going to lap your valves, I would have the valves refaced and back cut to make sure they are round, the back cut will help improve air flow...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341288-why-have-your-valves-back-cut.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341636-how-lap-valve.html

Just like DSM-onster said, have your valve springs checked...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

If weak, and running stock to mid sized cams, I would get a set of BC1100 springs and use the stock retainers
some valve spring info...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

also once the head is apart, check the guides for cracks, if you find cracked guides, you will want to have them replaced, and that will also mean you need to do a full valve job.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

^^

If you want to do the job right, listen to this guy. He knows EXACTLY what he's talking about.

 

[90gst_sean]

I'm not paying for ARP's ridiculous pricing when the stock bolts are good to sub 10 seconds.

Time is money my friend and when you're out in the garage replacing your second... and maybe third head gasket, I want you to think back about this thread and the money "you've saved yourself".



... is it getting hot in here?

 

[PewPew90Laser]

I've got all the time in the world but money is the slow factor.

Well I found out the motor already HAS a steel headgasket in it, AND has headstuds. I'm not taking the head off but I'll be replacing every other seal or gasket.

$140 for an OEM top end gasket kit is a really, really good deal. I'm also going to Thread the oil return port of the 16g if it isn't threaded already and weld a bung on my oil pan for a stainless braided line
or use some permanent epoxy like JB weld and "cold weld" the straight portions of the return line. I want to cut out the flex part and run a silicone line.

For the feed I'll have a shop make a stainless line.

Thanks for all the info I'm going to find a Junkyard head and start rebuilding in my garage with all the info. I'll post results, it will be slow work but it will be done.

 

[92AWDHX40]

There you go sounds like a good start good luck.

 

[PewPew90Laser]

ad;laksjd;flkajs;lf

the wrong top end kit was given to me. They gave me the n/a set.

FFFUUUUUUU

how is Victor Reinz?

 

[dsm-onster]

I've got all the time in the world but money is the slow factor.

Well I found out the motor already HAS a steel headgasket in it, AND has headstuds. I'm not taking the head off but I'll be replacing every other seal or gasket.

$140 for an OEM top end gasket kit is a really, really good deal. I'm also going to Thread the oil return port of the 16g if it isn't threaded already and weld a bung on my oil pan for a stainless braided line
or use some permanent epoxy like JB weld and "cold weld" the straight portions of the return line. I want to cut out the flex part and run a silicone line.

For the feed I'll have a shop make a stainless line.

Thanks for all the info I'm going to find a Junkyard head and start rebuilding in my garage with all the info. I'll post results, it will be slow work but it will be done.

Weld a LARGE bung on there. Considering your apparent budget restraints, I can see later on you wanting to run possibly a holset if/when you want to upgrade the turbocharger. You'll then have your return diameter already correct. Saving you from having to do things twice.

Check your pistons. They MAY be forged. Most don't just swap on MLS gaskets to stock blocks. Shine a light down the spark plug hole. IF you see 63DT upside down, then they are stock. You may have to move the crank around to get good sight on the piston tops.

 

[BogusSVO]

Victor Reinz are good gaskets, they make alot of the OE domestic gaskets (back in the day Fel-pro used to get VR head gaskets and blue stripe them and then sell them for there own)

 

[SupaDoopa]

Get a stronger gasket and check anything you can look at for wear and tear.

 

[fateo66]

There is some good info in here! listen to a few of these guys