Head Gasket replacement. What else should I do??

[ishnish]

Well there appears to be white smoke coming out of my tail pipe and at this point, I'm pretty sure it's my head gasket going.. No milky oil but overflow tank does seem to get low kinda' quick. All the money I was saving up for some exhaust components and coating will all be going to maintenance now. But hey, at least I got my priorities .

My question is, while I'm down there, what else should I do? I was thinking I might as well change my timing belt although my car is at 99k original miles. While doing the timing belt, I figured I might as well eliminate the balance shaft and replace some pulleys. The STM kit would probably be good for this:

STM DSM TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT KIT

Anything else I should do? I was also considering to change my water pump because I just have a feeling coolant is an issue right now. Another STM kit should be good for this:

OEM MITSUBISHI | 90-99 DSM | WATER PUMPS | MD972052 | MD972050

What else could I change while down there? This is my first time EVER doing this to any car so I am pretty terrified but very excited to learn at the same time. Maybe I could upgrade some part while down there?

I was looking into the Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer Crank Pulley and was wondering if I should look into this as well:

STM: FLUIDAMPR HARMONIC BALANCER CRANK PULLEY | 4G63 | EVO VIII-IX | 90-99 DSM | 630701 | 610701

Idk what else there really is that I should look into changing. I've changed my accessory belts about 3k miles ago so those should be good. Any suggestions guys? I have time to save so I'm open to any suggestions. I really want my car to run as strong as an ox at this point so I can finally put all of my mods in.

Thanks!

 

[synthetek]

Definitely change the timing components, water pump, check the front main seal, cam seals. While the head is off have it checked out by a machine shop, replace valve seals, and get some ARP head studs.

 

[BogusSVO]

Use a composite HG with the ARP head studs.

I doubt you need to go to the fluid dampner at this time, if your OE balncer is in good shape keep it.

With the head off, now would be the time to change the valve stem seals, and a new set of springs would not hurt. A good single spring with the stock retainers would be just fine, Like the BC1100.

Then down the road, you will be set for a cam swap for the samller 272 cams, like the HKS, BC, FP2/comp

Once the head is off, a few things you can check out and do .

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/452489-backyard-straight-edge.html#post153147462

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420313-how-fluid-test-4g63-cylinder-head.html

 

[ishnish]

Definitely change the timing components, water pump, check the front main seal, cam seals. While the head is off have it checked out by a machine shop, replace valve seals, and get some ARP head studs.

Front main seals and cam seals; I have no idea how or where those would be. How much would it be to get the head checked out? Okay well at least I got the head studs part taken care of . ARP L19s (bought not installed)

Use a composite HG with the ARP head studs.

I doubt you need to go to the fluid dampner at this time, if your OE balncer is in good shape keep it.

With the head off, now would be the time to change the valve stem seals, and a new set of springs would not hurt. A good single spring with the stock retainers would be just fine, Like the BC1100.

Then down the road, you will be set for a cam swap for the samller 272 cams, like the HKS, BC, FP2/comp

Once the head is off, a few things you can check out and do .

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/452489-backyard-straight-edge.html#post153147462

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420313-how-fluid-test-4g63-cylinder-head.html

Composite head gasket, got it. I'll be sure to update my post with a list of everything so far.

I probably don't need a fluidampr, but would it be hard to change later on without removing the head or timing components? This is why I was wondering if I should get it now. Unless of course, OE can handle a lot of power to where I really don't have to upgrade.

I'll have to look into valve stem seals as well. I feel like there are seals for everything . If I get a set of springs, it'll take a while to save then because I want to install retainers with springs. Can these be installed without removing the head or no?

Thank you for the links. I'll have to check those out later as I'm currently at work.

 

[BogusSVO]

Front main seals and cam seals; I have no idea how or where those would be. How much would it be to get the head checked out? Okay well at least I got the head studs part taken care of . ARP L19s (bought not installed)



Composite head gasket, got it. I'll be sure to update my post with a list of everything so far.

I probably don't need a fluidampr, but would it be hard to change later on without removing the head or timing components? This is why I was wondering if I should get it now. Unless of course, OE can handle a lot of power to where I really don't have to upgrade.

I'll have to look into valve stem seals as well. I feel like there are seals for everything . If I get a set of springs, it'll take a while to save then because I want to install retainers with springs. Can these be installed without removing the head or no?

Thank you for the links. I'll have to check those out later as I'm currently at work.

The cam seals are behind the cam gears.
Front crank seal is behind the crank gear.

The balancer can be changed with out messing with the timing belt.

If you paln on keeping under 8000 Rpm, then you really do not need the Ti retainers, stock will work just fine.

The valve seals are inside the valve springs, so if you do springs, the seals are right there to change.

Yes you can change the seals and springs with the head in the car.

I never have done it, I always have the head on a work bench...

As far as having the head checked out by a shop, the price will depend on the shop and what part of the country you are in.

Just make sure whatever shop you use knows the 4g63 head.

 

[NHerron]

Look at the timing belt for any signs of abnormal wear. Maybe replace the block to head dowels. Be prepared to snap turbo to manifold bolts or the exhaust studs. Don't go ARP on the turbo bolts, stick with OEM bolts and special washers and good nickel antisieze.

 

[ishnish]

The cam seals are behind the cam gears.
Front crank seal is behind the crank gear.

The balancer can be changed with out messing with the timing belt.

If you paln on keeping under 8000 Rpm, then you really do not need the Ti retainers, stock will work just fine.

The valve seals are inside the valve springs, so if you do springs, the seals are right there to change.

Yes you can change the seals and springs with the head in the car.

I never have done it, I always have the head on a work bench...

As far as having the head checked out by a shop, the price will depend on the shop and what part of the country you are in.

Just make sure whatever shop you use knows the 4g63 head.

Okay cool thanks.

Yayy.

Well I plan to move way further up in the power band and want to run high compression later on. I have plans for valve springs/retainers/cams anyway.

Oh I believe some springs come with the seals correct? Maybe I'm wrong here

Cool man. Well it takes real skill to do it while mounted to the block jk.

I''m in Cali so I'm sure I'll get raped with charges.

Will do, I believe there are some good shops up in Frisco for DSMs anyway.

As for maintenance wise, I guess there really aren't any other things to do then? Pulleys don't need to be worried about unless they appear to be breaking correct? I just don't know if they last long or not which is why I was disputing on what else to change. Since my issues were coolant related I figured do the water water pump. I'll come up with the list of parts soon. And just for the sakie of opinions, would it better to get rid of the balance shaft?

Look at the timing belt for any signs of abnormal wear. Maybe replace the block to head dowels. Be prepared to snap turbo to manifold bolts or the exhaust studs. Don't go ARP on the turbo bolts, stick with OEM bolts and special washers and good nickel antisieze.

NHerron, yet another thread you're helping me out with (you helped me with my battery relocation problems . Well I will be changing it anyway so does this really matter? Unless of course the wear could be related to something other than the belt. Yeah I'm definitely prepared to break some exhaust studs . Yeah I've heard not to go ARP on the turbo bolts but thanks for the suggestion as I didn't really remember what it was exactly.

 

[NHerron]

Hey man whats goin on you figure that out? I remember now

Oh I meant look at the belt to make sure it appears to be evenly wearing and theres no gouges/nicks/rubbing and not oil soaked. Yeah I would change it for sure. Along with the pulleys, thats just me though. I'd say change the tensioner for sure though, unless you know it was changed before. JNZtuning is the cheapest for each of those, you won't regret the assurance OEM parts provide. Hypocritically, I went with Gates (off rockauto) on the waterpump. Check the price on OEM waterpump. Completely asinine.

You can go ARP on the head to manifold studs, theyre pretty sweet actually. Not near enough heat there to have the problems turbo bolts have.

 

[ishnish]

Lol yeah everything is going good still. It's been a while now and the car has been starting fine no problem.

Okay well I am changing the belt for sure. I'm not sure if the tensioner was changed before but am not willing to take that risk so I might as well change that as well. Would JNZ be cheaper than STM's kits? Actually I will just check it out myself. Definitely going OEM on those. Yeah the water pump is super expensive! But idk if I can trust aftermarket ones. How is your water pump doing?

Sounds good. I'll try finding out what's best.

 

[BogusSVO]

I have had good luck with the BMP water pumps, Just sent a 7 bolt out with one.

They are a new pump and not a reman.

 

[jasonleee09]

check rockauto.com i got ym gates timing belt kit for $70 and a gates water pump for $60 i believe. and shipping usually takes 3 days to receive.

 

[NHerron]

You could probably get away with gates TB, do some searching to double check though.

As for the waterpump, yeah it's really a good pump. Gates has been a beesnees trusted brand for a long time, I haven't heard of anyone from here having problems with a Gates WP before. It's a very good price, and fast shipping from RA too.

I've never read about BMP pumps before but Bogus is pretty knowledgeable so I'd check into them.

STM vs JNZ individual parts = JNZ
STM kits vs JNZ individual parts compiled to a kit = Not sure.
PM me an exact list of parts you'll be wanting to buy along with the year of the block/car and I'll get part numbers and tell ya the cheapest way to go considering shipping, etc. If you want anyway, I'd let you know by tomorrow night around this time.

 

[ishnish]

I have had good luck with the BMP water pumps, Just sent a 7 bolt out with one.

They are a new pump and not a reman.

That's awesome to know thanks! It'll definitely save me some money!

check rockauto.com i got ym gates timing belt kit for $70 and a gates water pump for $60 i believe. and shipping usually takes 3 days to receive.

Thank you for the suggestion. I've got a lot of researching to do .

You could probably get away with gates TB, do some searching to double check though.

As for the waterpump, yeah it's really a good pump. Gates has been a beesnees trusted brand for a long time, I haven't heard of anyone from here having problems with a Gates WP before. It's a very good price, and fast shipping from RA too.

I've never read about BMP pumps before but Bogus is pretty knowledgeable so I'd check into them.

STM vs JNZ individual parts = JNZ
STM kits vs JNZ individual parts compiled to a kit = Not sure.
PM me an exact list of parts you'll be wanting to buy along with the year of the block/car and I'll get part numbers and tell ya the cheapest way to go considering shipping, etc. If you want anyway, I'd let you know by tomorrow night around this time.

Not sure but I think I should maybe stick to OEM on the belt just cause it's such a big deal to me. I will double check though.

That is awesome to know about the waterpump as well being that it is SUPER expensive for what it is! I will look into both pumps. I really want one that will last as long as OEM but without the price . If they wont, then I'm going OEM.

Thanks so much man! I will start working on the list right now. Sorry for the late reply. I've been very busy with work and got home just now. FINALLY have some free time to jot down a list. I definitely would love to know the cheapest way to go for quality stuff that is.

 

[NHerron]

NP, I work alot too but luckily I have the next 5 days off so I'll have a bit of extra time.

PM me anytime.

 

[mcrae_06]

FYI Starting fluid that contains a high amount of Ether works wonders for removing the HG gunk left over on the head and cylinder mating surfaces. Just spray it on and scrub; be careful because Ether is extremely flammable.

 

[awdtalon4451]

I have had good luck with the BMP water pumps, Just sent a 7 bolt out with one.

They are a new pump and not a reman.

Dale who carrys BMP? Also i got that head in so ill be bringing it by the shop in the near future.

 

[BogusSVO]

BMP is sold at Advance auto parts.

 

[awdtalon4451]

BMP is sold at Advance auto parts.

Not knocking Advanced but ive had very little luck from them when it comes to parts. IMO I dont think there QC/QA is up to par. 2 alternators, 2 fuel pumps and a headlight switch were dead when purchased from them.
But if you stand by BMP ill check into it :thumbup:

 

[BogusSVO]

Sorry not BMP, but GMP

 

[ishnish]

Well Bogus I read all of your threads and I'm pretty sure that it's safe to assume that, if one is trying to remove the head and do some maintenance, they should pretty much get a shop to do the work if they don't have the tools. With that being said, even if it's just a gasket, you'd have to spend a few hundred just for all of that extra work like resurfacing and such.

 

[BogusSVO]

It depends on how much or how little you want done.

You should be able to take the head in for a surface only for around $50

But in most cases, the intake valves need to come out, so when the head is surfaced, the valves do not get cut at the same time.

If you want the springs changed, or the seals replaced, thats going to cost extra.

 

[ishnish]

Oh well that's nowhere near as much as I expected which is great.

Question though: I understand I have to get the head resurfaced. But I think it was mentioned on one of your articles or previously on this thread that the block might need to as well. So what does this mean? Basically pulling out my whole motor? This is going to be troublesome...

 

[BogusSVO]

The composite HG should seal on the block, unless the block surface is just trashed from other HG failures and improper cleaning methods.

If you just have to rum a MLS HG, then pull the block and have it milled.