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Does anyone using ebay oil catch can? Any reviews?

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blkGSTspider

15+ Year Contributor
124
0
Jun 27, 2005
northridge, California
I've been search for the review for ebay oild catch cans.
I am just going to install it between valve cover and instake pipe.
Is beather for oil catch necessary?
Please reply for the reviews!

Thank you
 
I have two of these: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=170627356010&index=16&nav=SEARCH&nid=12917215609

I have no complaints and the quality was quite good. As for the breather on the catch can? It is a bad idea, the pcv and VC breather system require the intake system for appropriate evacuation of crank case gases. If you put a breather on the catch can it is like trying to drink through a straw with a hole in it. That is one of the reasons I went with that particular catch can as it is sealed.
 
I have read that EBAY catch cans are not worth it because they are empty, the better ones you can get from the vendors on this site have this like steel wool type stuff in them I dont remember what it was for exactly but you do want this stuff in it, and no you do not want a breather on the catch can like Ravenous said it will defeat the purpose. And you would want to run a hose from the PCV valve to the catch can and then back to the intake where the PCV hose goes to.
 
Ebay catch cans give you what you pay for; they don't totally filter out what is going through them. What I did so now I don't have to worry about any issues is I ran hoses from both nipples on the valve cover to a tee fitting that then went to the in-port on the can. For the vacuum source to draw the vapors through I used a tube hooked to the out-let port of the can going to the ground. The fast moving air under the car over the tube creates vacuum. Cars used a similar method before PCV valves were ever in the picture. I finally capped off the port on the intake manifold and the nipple in-between the mass air flow sensor and the turbo. The only issue with this set-up is that if your car will have issues passing emission testing.
 
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Ebay catch cans give you what you pay for; they don't totally filter out what is going through them. What I did so now I don't have to worry about any issues is I ran hoses from both nipples on the valve cover to a tee fitting that then went to the in-port on the can. For the vacuum source to draw the vapors through I used a tube hooked to the out-let port of the can going to the ground. The fast moving air under the car over the tube creates vacuum. Cars used a similar method before PCV valves were ever in the picture. I finally capped off the port on the intake manifold and the nipple in-between the mass air flow sensor and the turbo. The only issue with this set-up is that if your car will have issues passing emission testing.

So you have no PCV system for off-boost conditions, and you're using a draw method that was done away with 40 years ago due to the fact that it doesn't work well (if at all); not to mention it isn't legal, allowed on a track, or very environment friendly.

Have you logged your crankcase pressure or had your oil analyzed by any chance?

I really think you should read the article I linked to. :)
 
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Sorry if this is a total noob question, but what is the benefit(in performance) of getting the greddy style catchcan, or even an ebay catchcan, over the $3 fuel filter/catchcan that VFAQ mentions? Install a catch can for your DSM (2G)

While that fuel filter may filter the oil vapor, it will only do so up to a point after which it is saturated and not breathing properly. You'll need to monitor this and replace periodically, costing you money each replacement.

The other cans generally speaking should fill with oil and can be drained periodically, costing you nothing beyond the initial investment.

What's left to question is the efficacy of those catch cans. Many cheap catch cans are just one line into an open container, and another line to the intake tract, and this doesn't doesn't appear to trap the oil vapor very well (no doubt there is some benefit). Improved designs include materials/structures designed to trap the oil vapors and have the oil condense in the can itself (for removal at some point) rather than being sucked into the intake.
 
It amazes me that people just refuse to read these days. :)

I'll post this again in case it wasn't obvious up there in post #6: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

I'm not sure if this was directed towards me or not, but ill just assume I fell under
the category of people who refuse to read :).

However I did read through your article, and I'll say that it was an excellent article
that was very informative.


I didnt see anything about using "fuel filters" as catchcans anywhere in your article,
thus I posted my questions having felt that what I was asking wasn't covered in your
article or wasn't covered in the amount of detail that i was looking for.

What I did see that you covered: the empty cans from ebay that do little to nothing,
and HD compressed air filters that have the wrong type of filter, and wear out fast
from the chemicals, and have a large pressure drop.

My question was/are: what do the "real" catchcans, like the $100 Greddy ones, do
that the simple paper fuel filters from the vfaq link don't.

what type of filter do the Greddy type use, and why is it superior to the fuel filter?

have you tested the fuel filters to see what type of pressure drop they have in
comparison to the greddy catchcans or the HD air filters.

I'm looking for more in-depth detail about the different catchcans and how each one
works differently and not so much the how the pcv system works.

if I wasn't in your cross-hairs then disregard :), to all others I hope this clarifies
what I was asking, I was pretty general in my first post.


TSiAWD666 - so other than having to replace it more often It does the same thing?
How do the "real" catchcans stop from becoming "saturated" and not breathing properly?
 
I'm not sure if this was directed towards me or not, but ill just assume I fell under the category of people who refuse to read :).

That wasn't pointed at anyone in particular. It just seems to be a general trend these days. :)

My question was/are: what do the "real" catchcans, like the $100 Greddy ones, do that the simple paper fuel filters from the vfaq link don't.

what type of filter do the Greddy type use, and why is it superior to the fuel filter?

Most of these are just empty cans. So they don't really do anything other than collect whatever liquid falls out of the vapor due to gravity, or due to condensation as the temperature changes when pressure drops across the can.

have you tested the fuel filters to see what type of pressure drop they have in comparison to the greddy catchcans or the HD air filters.

The biggest problem with the paper fuel filters is that they collapse very easily once they become saturated. So they typically have a very short lifespan, and become a blockage to airflow rather quickly.


How do the "real" catchcans stop from becoming "saturated" and not breathing properly?

Different manufacturers deal with it in different ways. Without going into too much detail, one method is to use a special coalescing filter that is created in such a way that it can remove progressively smaller particles as air flows through it.

Here is a thread that you may find interesting (there are several others scattered around the site as well): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/372279-my-new-crankcase-evactuation-system.html
 
really nifty solution on that link, so did he eliminate the

Ok, So basically what you're saying is that it is better to use the empty can and let gravity do its job, than to have an clogged filter, and/or having to replace the paper filters much more often?
 
Ok, So basically what you're saying is that it is better to use the empty can and let gravity do its job, than to have an clogged filter, and/or having to replace the paper filters much more often?

Yes.. an empty can is better than a clogged filter; at least you shouldn't have crankcase pressure issues that way. But, any oil that stays suspended and blows past the can will coat your intake track. (As TSiAWD666 alluded to).

A better solution is to use a catch can with a good filter. ;)
 
I run an ebay catch can, except I modded it a slight bit, added a filtration system (aka steel wool type stuff) and some an fittings. I am happy with it, and bought 2 for $35 shipped. More than 1/4 off of 2 new name brand ones.
 
I run an ebay catch can, except I modded it a slight bit, added a filtration system (aka steel wool type stuff) and some an fittings. I am happy with it, and bought 2 for $35 shipped. More than 1/4 off of 2 new name brand ones.

Just out of curiosity... how much crankcase pressure do you see with that can? Is it open, or tied back to the intake?
 
So you have no PCV system for off-boost conditions, and you're using a draw method that was done away with 40 years ago due to the fact that it doesn't work well (if at all); not to mention it isn't legal, allowed on a track, or very environment friendly.

Have you logged your crankcase pressure or had your oil analyzed by any chance?

I really think you should read the article I linked to. :)

Calan,

I have not logged my crankcase pressure, but it's not high enough to push the oil dip stick out... If it tends to be a little high should i worry? No I haven't had my oil analyzed. I havent, to best of my knowledge, been putting oil on the roadway either; the tube leading to the ground is clean.
 
Calan,

I have not logged my crankcase pressure, but it's not high enough to push the oil dip stick out... If it tends to be a little high should i worry? No I haven't had my oil analyzed. I havent, to best of my knowledge, been putting oil on the roadway either; the tube leading to the ground is clean.

Positive pressure in the CC is never good. In addition to the common dipstick-popping issue, it can also work negatively on seals and in some cases hinder proper oil draining from the turbo, if it's high enough. There's really no way to be sure how much you are seeing without measuring it.

Even if you don't have positive pressure issues, you may be (and probably are) contaminating your oil... which can silently lead to bearing failure and other nasty things. I would recommend getting your oil analyzed. That's a sure-fire way to see if you are getting fuel and hydrocarbon contamination in your oil, which is common if you don't run a good PCV setup on a car that goes 2000+ miles between oil changes.
 
Hmm I never thought about any of that happening when switching to my set-up... Thanks for the info!!! I would have had no idea about what went wrong if issues did arise in the bearings. I think I'm going to have the pcv valve hook back up to the IM with a check valve from US Plastics in the system also, because before I was also having intake air going the wrong direction through the pcv valve.
 
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