The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Do I need to redo the timing belt?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MultipleMan

Probationary Member
13
1
Dec 19, 2011
Houston, Texas
Ok so I just got done doing the timing belt and balance belt on my 98GSX. What I didn't realize till after I finished is that I started the job with the dowel pins in the 6 o'clock instead of the 12 o'clock position. But before I removed any belts, I used the white out trick to mark both the T-Belt and B-Belt and all sprockets to make sure I had the exact same position for everything as before I removed the belts. There is no question that is the case as the white out marks on the sprockets line up perfectly with the marks transferred onto the new belts. So is there any reason for me to go back and redo the T-Belt job starting with the dowels lined up in the 12 o'clock position? Any experts care to chime in here? TIA
 
Personally, I would redo it the correct way for peace of mind. But I suppose you could rotate the motor by hand to TDC and see if things line up.
 
Rotate the engine by hand and see if the mark on the crank and both cam marks line up with the dowels at 12 o'clock. I personally would never mark the cams to time the engine, just use the timings marks. That's what they're there for :thumb:
 
Alrighty, thanks for the quick response guys. I guess I'll tear it back down to check the marks again with the dowels at 12 o'clock. Just wish I had realized what I did before I put that stupid AC tensioner pulley bracket back on :(
 
It's all about relative position. If you redo it and only move the cam gears you better check the oil pump gear also, assuming you still have balance shafts. No matter what the position of the gears, if you took the belt off, then put it back on in exactly the same position, wouldn't it stand to reason it's ok? For instance...lets just say you started in any position. Doesn't matter where any of the marks were and you did a transfer method with whiteout. You could put the belt back on exactly where it was. The only double check is to rotate the crank. The marks all line up with dowels up once every six rotations.
 
You'll get arguments that you won't be effected by it, you'll also get them that you will. Either way - do it right. Pop the timing belt off and do it with the cam dowels in the correct position.
 
No matter what the position of the gears, if you took the belt off, then put it back on in exactly the same position, wouldn't it stand to reason it's ok?
Yes but only if the belt before removing was put exactly on the correct tooth of all gears, and it was the correct belt, and it hadn't stretched, and it was tensioned properly. So you can replace the belt putting it back on the same teeth but you still need to verify all marks line up every 6 revs after it's tensioned.
 
I tore it back down again this morning to check the timing marks. I rotated the crank 6+ times and got back to my own whiteout marks which had the dowels at 6 o'clock. I then rotated the crank another 360 degrees which put the dowels at 12 o'clock. At that point I waited 15 minutes and then checked all the timing marks on both T-Belt and B-Belt and they do line up perfectly. So this means I'm good to go without removing the belts one more time? Can anyone confirm? I reaaaaaally don't wanna take off the belts again and mess with the tension if there is no need to. It took me long enough to get it right the first time :)
 
Rotate the engine until the factory timing marks line up. Then rotate the engine 6 times to see if the factory timing marks once again line up. I wouldn't go by your whiteout marks. Use the ones from the factory.
 
It does suck having to undue what you have already done, but I would tear it back down and time it to the factory timing marks and you won't have to question it at all. Its better to take the time and be sure that it is right, because if its not, your gonna spend a lot more time tearing it down to replace valves if it isn't correct. Goodluck
 
It's pretty simple, turn the crank until the marks factory marks line up, if they line up and the rear shaft is in phase than you are in time, that is no questioning that.
 
It's pretty simple, turn the crank until the marks factory marks line up, if they line up and the rear shaft is in phase than you are in time, that is no questioning that.

Cool, that pretty much addresses my concern. All the factory marks do line up. They line up every 6 rotations. Rear shaft is in phase. I was just worried there was some other factor I was forgetting. I'm gonna button it back up now. Thanks to you and everyone else for your input. You guys rock :thumb:
 
I believe its gona be off timing at the end no matter what you try to do now. Just start over...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top