The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Diagnose my bearing failure on 6 bolt 2.3 liter stroker

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Interesting, I run the king bearings too, just idled and ran around the block for a bit LOL

Have to check clearances, make sure all the oil galleys are clean, check the oil pump too.

If you had healthy oil pressure, this would make it seem like you have a foreign contamination.


Yeah, I did the clearances with a mic and dial bore gauge and double checked with red plastigage. Galleys were clear. Oil pump is good. Definitely think it must've had something come loose and block the galley to the #3 rod bearing. The main bearing that supplies oil to the #3 rod was in not terrible shape relative to the rest of the bearings. Definitely a blockage somewhere though.
 
Thats a lubrication related failure, its not a bearing defect and theres not enough debris to cause that kind of damage in 20 miles.
 
any update from the machine shop?

Most likely a piece of trash in the galley leading from the main to the #3 rod bearing. Which is why the main bearing that supplies the rod wasn't in terrible shape. They also recommended that I go to a 10w30 or 10w40 instead of the 20w50 I've always run. The guy was saying how these oil pumps aren't designed to pump oil that thick. And I should also see lower oil temps running a lighter oil. We'll see. Gonna try and get the motor in the car this weekend. Hopefully fire it up sometime next week. But it's been raining and will continue to rain for the next few days.
 
Which is why the main bearing that supplies the rod wasn't in terrible shape. They also recommended that I go to a 10w30 or 10w40 instead of the 20w50 I've always run. The guy was saying how these oil pumps aren't designed to pump oil that thick.
Sorry if you've already stated this but are they referring to our stock oil pumps?
 
So what type of bs elimination is going on here? When I checked out if you run removed bs it can change the way oil pressure is delivered to different parts of the engine. Second question how does your harmonic damper look? Stock? Separated? Aftermarket? I read a thread about a guy shredding bearings using a udp non dampened pulley and when he changed to a stock working one the issues went away. I personally am fond of the fluidamper. Just exploring other options. I run 20w50 all year no issues so far. I have a couple friends with dsms that run 20w50 as well no issues.
 
Are you running a kiggly hla for the oil passages in the head?

If not I suspect you possibly over ran the oil pressure in the head, and the regulator just pushed all of your oil pressure back into the head at high boost or high power. Your pressure would show good, but you would just be bleeding it into the head and not into the block.

That is why the hla was designed atleast
 
Sorry if you've already stated this but are they referring to our stock oil pumps?


Stock pumps. Yes

So what type of bs elimination is going on here? When I checked out if you run removed bs it can change the way oil pressure is delivered to different parts of the engine. Second question how does your harmonic damper look? Stock? Separated? Aftermarket? I read a thread about a guy shredding bearings using a udp non dampened pulley and when he changed to a stock working one the issues went away. I personally am fond of the fluidamper. Just exploring other options. I run 20w50 all year no issues so far. I have a couple friends with dsms that run 20w50 as well no issues.


Mirage stub shaft on a straight gear pump. I've had a fluidamper on the car since 2007. I've run 20w50 for 17 years in this car and never had an issue. I eliminated the squirters, so I decided to open the bearing clearances and extra .001" so my clearances were .003". But, what the machinest said sounded pretty accurate.


Are you running a kiggly hla for the oil passages in the head?

If not I suspect you possibly over ran the oil pressure in the head, and the regulator just pushed all of your oil pressure back into the head at high boost or high power. Your pressure would show good, but you would just be bleeding it into the head and not into the block.

That is why the hla was designed atleast

Yeah I have the Kiggley head regulator.
 
Tell your machine shop guy that the factory owners manual recommends 20w-50 oil at temperatures above 70*F LOL, so Im pretty sure that the factory pump was designed to run oil that thick.
 
I heard that the stubs can cause issues, not something I have personal experience with, but I've been told not to run a stub shaft by builders I trust. Because the stub is not secured in place can cause uneven wear on the oil pump bearing. Did that pump check out?

Since you are pulling the engine and all that fun stuff maybe consider running bs? I know that's like sacrilegious on this site.. Barring bs at least you have a fluidamper pulley so that will make a difference.
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts

After ripping one of my friends gst apart and seeing what an unsprung clutch and no bs does for the clutch and transmission I won't even consider running that stuff. The bs I'm not a die hard on keeping but sprung clutch, fluidamper or ATI and full weight fly wheel are going to be staying in my dsm.

The 6puck unsprung clutch separated from vibrations to the point I was able to crumble the plates when it was out (yikes) and the trans was cracked and had to be welded to be used again. I can only imagine the good things that did for syncros in that trans.
 
Last edited:
I heard that the stubs can cause issues, not something I have personal experience with, but I've been told not to run a stub shaft by builders I trust. Because the stub is not secured in place can cause uneven wear on the oil pump bearing. Did that pump check out?

Since you are pulling the engine and all that fun stuff maybe consider running bs? I know that's like sacrilegious on this site.. Barring bs at least you have a fluidamper pulley so that will make a difference.
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts

After ripping one of my friends gst apart and seeing what an unsprung clutch and no bs does for the clutch and transmission I won't even consider running that stuff. The bs I'm not a die hard on keeping but sprung clutch, fluidamper or ATI and full weight fly wheel are going to be staying in my dsm.

The 6puck unsprung clutch separated from vibrations to the point I was able to crumble the plates when it was out (yikes) and the trans was cracked and had to be welded to be used again. I can only imagine the good things that did for syncros in that trans.


The pump I had this time around had straight cut gears in it. The housing didn't look bad, but I obviously am not gonna put that setup back in the car. Picked up a new oil pump/front cover. And as far as the clutch goes, it's only a track car and sees zero street time. Hopefully with getting everything balanced, that'll cut down on the vibration and any potential clutch problems. We'll see how it goes. Looking to swing the motor back in the car this Sunday.
 
Really? I was looking all over for the oil spec. You have a link or anything for that?
Its in the owners manual in the maintenance section, if I had a way to scan it in I would, I have posted that section before on forums but I no longer own a printer or scanner.
 
Here you go. It's in the FSM Maintenance section as well.
 

Attachments

  • 4G63t 7-bolt Oil Viscosity.pdf
    231.6 KB · Views: 61
Interesting. That 20w40 and 10w30 are the same coverage in higher temps and the 10w30 for a little colder temps for obvious reasons. I'm gonna try out 10w40 Brad Penn to see what it does for oil temps.
 
I can't post up a copy of the page right now, but the 6-bolt's is almost the same. Has 1 slight additional reference. There is a dual viscosity recommendation for 32F up, "20W-40, 20W-50". Even better for you. I'll try & attach the pdf later.
 
Attached are 2 more excerpts from FSM, the 1G 1989-1993 & GVR4. It's the GVR4 with the dual 20W-40, 20W-50 reference. The 1G is the same as the 2G. I hope this info covers what you're looking for.
 

Attachments

  • 1G 4G63t Viscosity recommendations.pdf
    356 KB · Views: 63
  • GVR4 4G63t Viscosity recommendations.pdf
    119.1 KB · Views: 62
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top