- Thread starter
- #26
gsxitement
20+ Year Contributor
- 1,887
- 1,665
- Dec 9, 2002
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DOBBS FERRY,
New_York
Are you gonna send the oil out for inspection?
No. The oil is already gone.
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Are you gonna send the oil out for inspection?
Interesting, I run the king bearings too, just idled and ran around the block for a bit
Have to check clearances, make sure all the oil galleys are clean, check the oil pump too.
If you had healthy oil pressure, this would make it seem like you have a foreign contamination.
Thats a lubrication related failure, its not a bearing defect and theres not enough debris to cause that kind of damage in 20 miles.
Was my first time out on the ToyoRR. They didn't even get up to temp since I wasn't out for very long . Came back to the garage and they were still cold. But I'll look into the accumsump for sure .What tires do you run? Should consider an accusump.
Booo.. sorry you’re going through all this, brotha.
any update from the machine shop?
Sorry if you've already stated this but are they referring to our stock oil pumps?Which is why the main bearing that supplies the rod wasn't in terrible shape. They also recommended that I go to a 10w30 or 10w40 instead of the 20w50 I've always run. The guy was saying how these oil pumps aren't designed to pump oil that thick.
Sorry if you've already stated this but are they referring to our stock oil pumps?
So what type of bs elimination is going on here? When I checked out if you run removed bs it can change the way oil pressure is delivered to different parts of the engine. Second question how does your harmonic damper look? Stock? Separated? Aftermarket? I read a thread about a guy shredding bearings using a udp non dampened pulley and when he changed to a stock working one the issues went away. I personally am fond of the fluidamper. Just exploring other options. I run 20w50 all year no issues so far. I have a couple friends with dsms that run 20w50 as well no issues.
Are you running a kiggly hla for the oil passages in the head?
If not I suspect you possibly over ran the oil pressure in the head, and the regulator just pushed all of your oil pressure back into the head at high boost or high power. Your pressure would show good, but you would just be bleeding it into the head and not into the block.
That is why the hla was designed atleast
Tell your machine shop guy that the factory owners manual recommends 20w-50 oil at temperatures above 70*F , so Im pretty sure that the factory pump was designed to run oil that thick.
I heard that the stubs can cause issues, not something I have personal experience with, but I've been told not to run a stub shaft by builders I trust. Because the stub is not secured in place can cause uneven wear on the oil pump bearing. Did that pump check out?
Since you are pulling the engine and all that fun stuff maybe consider running bs? I know that's like sacrilegious on this site.. Barring bs at least you have a fluidamper pulley so that will make a difference.
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts
After ripping one of my friends gst apart and seeing what an unsprung clutch and no bs does for the clutch and transmission I won't even consider running that stuff. The bs I'm not a die hard on keeping but sprung clutch, fluidamper or ATI and full weight fly wheel are going to be staying in my dsm.
The 6puck unsprung clutch separated from vibrations to the point I was able to crumble the plates when it was out (yikes) and the trans was cracked and had to be welded to be used again. I can only imagine the good things that did for syncros in that trans.
Its in the owners manual in the maintenance section, if I had a way to scan it in I would, I have posted that section before on forums but I no longer own a printer or scanner.Really? I was looking all over for the oil spec. You have a link or anything for that?
Also.....is it the same specs for the 6 bolt?Here you go. It's in the FSM Maintenance section as well.