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Confirmed 6 bolt thrust bearing failure.

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crash89

15+ Year Contributor
3,537
181
Mar 5, 2008
Punta Gorda, Florida
My buddy bought a used built (eagle/wiseco) 6 bolt off a guy on craigslist about a year ago. He was told it was good condition since it came out of a running car. Anywho, I was in the process of getting the motor ready for install and upon putting on the timing belt I noticed some movement in the crankshaft.

Was quite excessive from what I've seen in previous motors. Measured the movement and it was more than 1/16" of an inch. Pulled the pan and there was bearing particles on the oil pickup. Pulled the center main cap and clearly was wear on the rear side of the thrust bearing.

Were in the process of ordering some new bearings and have a spare 6 bolt crank. Im going to pull the crank, front case, and oil squirters and clean the hell out of the oil galleys and filter housing and see what happens.

If it walks again, well then my buddy has some forged internals to sell for money for a good 7 bolt!

Heres some pics and a video.. Remember this is a 6 bolt!!!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02apraf5pNc]6 bolt confirmed thrust beating failure - YouTube[/ame]

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They must've not put preload on the crank during thrust bearing assembly.
 
You have to dissect the whole engine and clean it now. DSM filtering system sucks so the grits are pretty much in every oil journals now. Make sure it is the correct main bearing cap.

I had the same problem back in the day. I bought a newly built forged bottom end from a guy and he had the wrong main cap for the thrust bearing. I was a newbie then and did not know to check.
 
Lots of times in a 6bolt it's from an improper clutch setup. The 1g pedal assembly gets worn, the master rod gets over adjusted to compensate, and the master cannot bleed down properly.
 
Not the first time and wont be the last...

As stated check to be sure the correct main cap was used.

If it were me... id start over with a fresh block and crank.

Ive used a block that was crank walked on a 6 bolt and I used a good crank and rebuild the engine and drove it daily without issues. Thrust bearing was in check with the feelers gauge.
 
How would the wrong cap be used? There is only one single main cap..

I just posted this to show my dilemma.. And that not just 7 bolts walk.

If you remove the center cap from one block, and use it on another, it's the wrong cap. They are all individually machined to each block.
 
And how would on know whether or not its from the original block? I have no knowledge of this motor. I just picked it up from my buddys storage unit along with all of the other parts and started putting it all together.. Upon assembly this is what I found.. Its not like I built this motor or sent it off to be built then this happened in my own vehicle.
 
And how would on know whether or not its from the original block? I have no knowledge of this motor. I just picked it up from my buddys storage unit along with all of the other parts and started putting it all together.. Upon assembly this is what I found.. Its not like I built this motor or sent it off to be built then this happened in my own vehicle.

Torque the caps in place with no bearings and check the housing bore ID. If it's the wrong cap(s), the dimensions will be WAAAAAY out of spec. Usually when this happens though the crank wont turn.
 
Any engine can suffer excessive crank end-play.. make sure you clean the crap out of every galley if you rebuild.

I would buy a set of Jays billet mains and machine everything to spec.
 
How would the wrong cap be used? There is only one single main cap..

I just posted this to show my dilemma.. And that not just 7 bolts walk.

Your comparing a machined 6-bolt to a factory 7-bolt. Like stated above, any engine can suffer crank walk. 7-bolts do it on there own. 6-bolts it's usually human error.
 
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