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Datalogging Issues need help!

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Are you able to convert it? and what would that cost?

No I can't mainly because it's not cost effective. Since it's a non-EPROM you would have to first convert it to a turbo board and then remove the CPU to either get the ECMTuning EPROM conversion board or put a turbo CPU on so the the software embedded in the CPU was correct.

It's cheaper to buy a good ECU.
 
No I can't mainly because it's not cost effective. Since it's a non-EPROM you would have to first convert it to a turbo board and then remove the CPU to either get the ECMTuning EPROM conversion board or put a turbo CPU on so the the software embedded in the CPU was correct.

It's cheaper to buy a good ECU.

ok cool well thanks for the honesty, alot of people would try to hustle someone out of money in a case like that. I'll have to look around.
 
It should be very steady. Your barometric pressure shouldn't vary much day to day, much less minute to minute.

I'd try a different airflow sensor; that's where the baro is. Check the wiring first, and maybe the baro could be checked with a multimeter.

figured out I had a break in the baro wiring right by the ecu, fixed that. Also received my actual turbo ecu and am now showing some counts of knock while driving (no knock is not good but i'm just glad its showing up now LOL) but my fuel trims are still stuck at 100% WTF!!!
 
did you ever get the wrong ecu issue corrected from the person who sold you the wrong ecu????
 
When I had this problem (trims @ 100%) it was a bad connection in my MAF plug. IAT readings were -74 deg. I first jumpered the wire from just past the plug to just before the ECU plug. Wanted to make sure it wasn't a broken wire.
 
Well I assumed that my coolant temp would have been about 184 last night since I had it idle for about 3-4 minutes with my fans shut off, then I drove it about a mile and a half and then turned the fans on. And drove it home and it idled for another 2 minutes or so...
Anyways it was late last night and I just checked to see if my trims moved and they didnt so I got annoyed, so I just called my girlfriend and had her look at my logs from last night and she said the highest my coolant got was 79 degrees celcius which translates to only 174.2 farenheight. Today I'm going to take it for a bit longer ride and see if it starts to cycle...
LETS HOPE!
 
do you have a thermostat in the car???? that is really wierd that it wont come up to 185 or 190 at least.
 
Assuming that your not driving the car.

Hook the logger up before you start the car. Turn the ignition on and look at COOL and AIRT, they should both be close to the outside temp on a cold car.

Start the engine, The COOL value should start to climb and once it reaches about 86F (on a 91+ car, higher on a 90) you should see O2-R and FTO2 start to cycle as the ECU enters closed loop, then when the COOL reaches 186F the FTRL should start to update. You won't see the others update until you start driving the car around. FTRM has a narrow range of airflow where it's used/updated so the low and high trims tend to update the fastest.

Update, I drove my car almost 25 miles today and the fuel trims never updated once. My coolant hit upwards of 205degrees and nothing moved at all. Is there any other values that you need to hear to maybe figure this out? I'm so confused and it sucks. It also was running with decent afr's, but then it started running real real rich toward the end of my journey. Any ideas?

Edit:
Baro Readings went from 13.X psi to upwards of 17 psi
02 was cycling anywhere between 0 and a max of 1.09
Coolant Temp seems to be reading fine as well as the air temp..
 
The barometric pressure should be stable, if it's not it indicates a problem, either with the MAF or the ECU.

1G Learn mode (all must be true) From ECMLink Wiki

Coolant temp >= 190F
Intake air temp < 123F
Baro >= 22.9 inHg
Baro <= 31.6 inHg

Baro Readings went from 13.X psi to upwards of 17 psi
02 was cycling anywhere between 0 and a max of 1.09
Coolant Temp seems to be reading fine as well as the air temp..

The BARO reading shouldn't be changing and 17 is too high. What was the coolant temps when the pressure was < 15.5 psi. That's 31.6 inHg converted to psi.

I don't remember your last name, did you send the ECU in to get fixed?
 
The BARO reading shouldn't be changing and 17 is too high. What was the coolant temps when the pressure was < 15.5 psi. That's 31.6 inHg converted to psi.

I don't remember your last name, did you send the ECU in to get fixed?

No I didn’t send my ECU in because you said it would be to much to convert that N/A to Turbo and I’d be better off buying one off the classifieds. But I somehow deleted my logs from that drive, but last night I had it out again and looking at my logs it seems that my BARO stayed in the 13.X-15.X range and it hit 16.X psi a few times. The coolant temp during most of this was anywhere from 180-200ish. I’m still crazy rich though, it will go into the 11’s sometimes 10’s when just cruising. I have my MAFT set on “6” and everything else is 0’d out, also everything on my SAFC is 0’d out. So I don’t understand the richness… I’m thinking that could be why I’m not seeing my Trims update. I have Precision 680’s and hear they don’t flow near that. Should I try setting my MAFT for smaller injectors maybe? I don’t know..
 
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