Datalogging Issues need help!

[91 TSi GP]

Ok so I'm new to this datalogging thing. I have a SAFC and Translator and have my Translator base setting set and the SAFC is 0'd out. I'm trying to get to where I can adjust via the SAFC but my fuel trims are showing 100%, they do not move at all...
Also another issue I'm having is I am showing 0 counts of knock all the time, that just doesnt seem right at all.
Is there something I can check/ or am I doing something wrong? Pleasehelp

 

[jrohner]

It sounds like you're stuck in open loop. Is your o2 sensor cycling up and down or what is it showing?

 

[91 TSi GP]

It sounds like you're stuck in open loop. Is your o2 sensor cycling up and down or what is it showing?

now that you said that I went back and looking at my last log and it is stuck at 2.50V, never moved once. Its showing the rear cycling but i dont have a rear ... any ideas?

 

[jrohner]

Depending on the logger program used, it may be labeled as the rear o2. You could unplug the o2 to see for certain, but I'm sure that's the case.

Are none of the trims moving or does the o2 trim (short term trim) read? If the long terms (low, mid, high) are not moving, you have an issue such as a low temp (or bad) thermostatbad baro, etc. or you just didn't get it warmed up fully.

 

[91 TSi GP]

Depending on the logger program used, it may be labeled as the rear o2. You could unplug the o2 to see for certain, but I'm sure that's the case.

Are none of the trims moving or does the o2 trim (short term trim) read? If the long terms (low, mid, high) are not moving, you have an issue such as a low temp (or bad) thermostatbad baro, etc. or you just didn't get it warmed up fully.

the fto2 trims are moving, the the low mids and high are all stuck at 100.. I will do that o2 sensor test today and see if thats the case. thanks for the info by the way

 

[steve]

now that you said that I went back and looking at my last log and it is stuck at 2.50V, never moved once. Its showing the rear cycling but i dont have a rear ... any ideas?

Actually from MMCd's perspective you don't have a front sensor. O2-R is the one and only O2 sensor on a 1G.

 

[We're on Boost]

Steve, thanks for that comment on MMCd. I think it will help TurboTerror99 with his O2 sensor voltage problems in this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/369230-new-logging-need-advice.html#post152200650

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

I looked at your profile, I did'nt see bigger injectors Or any fuel mods, And the fact that everything is zero'd out The trims probably would'nt move in that case. You could try adding a or removing a little at idle on the afc just to get the low trim to move. What are you showing for coolant temps? What does your 02 trim read at idle?

 

[91 TSi GP]

my profile isnt up to date, i have 680's, 255lph, afpr

 

[steve]

the fto2 trims are moving, the the low mids and high are all stuck at 100.. I will do that o2 sensor test today and see if thats the case. thanks for the info by the way

If FT02 is cycling your in closed loop but not at the point where the fuel trims start updating. The coolant temp has to be over 186F before the long term trims begin to reflect the short term FT02 feedback.

 

[91 TSi GP]

If FT02 is cycling your in closed loop but not at the point where the fuel trims start updating. The coolant temp has to be over 186F before the long term trims begin to reflect the short term FT02 feedback.

So basically check my Coolant temp sensor and make sure it functioning then? I will hopefully be able to do this this evening after I paint the daily and get off work. I wish there was more hours in the day!

 

[steve]

Assuming that your not driving the car.

Hook the logger up before you start the car. Turn the ignition on and look at COOL and AIRT, they should both be close to the outside temp on a cold car.

Start the engine, The COOL value should start to climb and once it reaches about 86F (on a 91+ car, higher on a 90) you should see O2-R and FTO2 start to cycle as the ECU enters closed loop, then when the COOL reaches 186F the FTRL should start to update. You won't see the others update until you start driving the car around. FTRM has a narrow range of airflow where it's used/updated so the low and high trims tend to update the fastest.

 

[91 TSi GP]

Assuming that your not driving the car.

Hook the logger up before you start the car. Turn the ignition on and look at COOL and AIRT, they should both be close to the outside temp on a cold car.

Start the engine, The COOL value should start to climb and once it reaches about 86F (on a 91+ car, higher on a 90) you should see O2-R and FTO2 start to cycle as the ECU enters closed loop, then when the COOL reaches 186F the FTRL should start to update. You won't see the others update until you start driving the car around. FTRM has a narrow range of airflow where it's used/updated so the low and high trims tend to update the fastest.

Ok cool good advice. Now with my "no knock" issue. When I had dsmlink and my eprom knock showed up. But now that my eprom took a dump and I bought a new ECU, no knock was showing up on my logger. I was told the ECU was for sure from a turbo awd car. So why wouldnt knock be showing up? Is there something I can look for on the board of the ECU or something to let me know if its equpied with the knock circuit board because I heard N/A ECUs dont have that...

 

[steve]

Post a picture of it and I can tell by looking. Or you can look for the knock board in the upper right when you hold the edge connector facing you. If there isn't a ceramic board soldered on top of the ECU board there then it's likely a NA ECU.

What happened to your EPROM?

 

[91 TSi GP]

Assuming that your not driving the car.

Hook the logger up before you start the car. Turn the ignition on and look at COOL and AIRT, they should both be close to the outside temp on a cold car.

Start the engine, The COOL value should start to climb and once it reaches about 86F (on a 91+ car, higher on a 90) you should see O2-R and FTO2 start to cycle as the ECU enters closed loop, then when the COOL reaches 186F the FTRL should start to update. You won't see the others update until you start driving the car around. FTRM has a narrow range of airflow where it's used/updated so the low and high trims tend to update the fastest.

Ok i finally had a chance to do this today, my logger reads in celcius so it was kind of confusing and I had to use a converter to convert it to farenheight. Its in the 40's outside today..

With the key on I had .. Coolant 47.12 degrees F, AirT 80.42 degrees F
O2R was reading about .64 but cycling and wideband read mid 11's

A while late On my aftermarket gauge I read about 152 degrees F (coolant), logger read 129.56 F

I ended up reaching 192.?? degree F and my FTML never moved, still stuck at 100%.

Any ideas now?

 

[jrohner]

What's your baro at?

 

[91 TSi GP]

baro is at anywhere from .30 up to 2ish, it never was at a steady number..

 

[steve]

Go into the MMCd options menu (tap MMCd on the title bar and select Options) and set your preferences. Units = English, Vehicle=DSM, uncheck O2 NonLin. (Assuming MMCd 1.8g, others might have different choices)

Why was there so much difference between the coolant temp and the air temp? On a cold car they should be almost equal. What does your AIRT read when the car is up to temp?

The barometric pressure should be stable, if it's not it indicates a problem, either with the MAF or the ECU.

Both BARO and AIRT have ranges of acceptable values in order for the long term trims to be updated.

1G Learn mode (all must be true) From ECMLink Wiki

Coolant temp >= 190F
Intake air temp < 123F
Baro >= 22.9 inHg
Baro <= 31.6 inHg

 

[91 TSi GP]

You know what I just thought of, when I had dsmlink I had a AEM 3.5 Bar map sensor and i'm almost positive I hadit run to the baro input on the ECU. I'll bet I never reconnected the original baro wire. Would this cause the issue I'm having?

 

[steve]

If your inputs aren't in the ranges above then the ECU won't update the long term trims.

 

[jrohner]

baro is at anywhere from .30 up to 2ish, it never was at a steady number..

It should be very steady. Your barometric pressure shouldn't vary much day to day, much less minute to minute.

I'd try a different airflow sensor; that's where the baro is. Check the wiring first, and maybe the baro could be checked with a multimeter.

 

[91 TSi GP]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 91 TSi GP
baro is at anywhere from .30 up to 2ish, it never was at a steady number..

It should be very steady. Your barometric pressure shouldn't vary much day to day, much less minute to minute.

I'd try a different airflow sensor; that's where the baro is. Check the wiring first, and maybe the baro could be checked with a multimeter.

My wiring for my baro input was jacked, i didnt have a chance to fix it yet but i'm sure thats the issue.

Post a picture of it and I can tell by looking. Or you can look for the knock board in the upper right when you hold the edge connector facing you. If there isn't a ceramic board soldered on top of the ECU board there then it's likely a NA ECU.

What happened to your EPROM?

Here is a pic of the board, I finally had a chance to take it out yesterday. My car had kind of been on the back burner because I just bought a house and have been dumping all my time into that.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[steve]

That's is non-turbo ECU which explains your knock issue.

It's a typical example of the low quality rebuilds the so called "professional" companies put out. It looks to be missing the SMD cap for the ADC reference voltage and a bit of left over leakage damage from the original capacitors leaking.

You need a turbo ECU so the BARO issue is somewhat mute.

 

[91 TSi GP]

That's is non-turbo ECU which explains your knock issue.

It's a typical example of the low quality rebuilds the so called "professional" companies put out. It looks to be missing the SMD cap for the ADC reference voltage and a bit of left over leakage damage from the original capacitors leaking.

You need a turbo ECU so the BARO issue is somewhat mute.

Awesome so someone on here sold me junk that was supposed to be guaranteed to be a Turbo ECU.

 

[steve]

Well if it was "guaranteed" then it's time to return it.