cutting out,sputtering..brick wall

[yeti-gvr4]

So I fixed most boost leaks and then the actuater rod was shortend all the way so I made it longer

Now I get 13lbs of boost max

And about 8-11 lbs of boost normally

The problem is halfway into full boost it cut out and it feels like more fuel cut ..

Could it be cause3d by metered air escaping threw my small boost leaks.

I'll still hold 10lbs for a few seconds while boost leak test.

This is getting annoying and want to figure out why its continues to sputtering and not letting me hit full boost for longer than 1 second

Also my idle is fudged and raises to 22rpm when cold and drops under 500 rpm when warm

Everything stock if not it profile

No fuel mods no tuning device


Boost never went by 13 lbs s

 

[Absit]

Fix the rest of your boost leaks.

 

[rlacasse1]

Also, do a boost leak test with more pressure. Doesn't make sense to do a BLT at a lower pressure then what you are trying to run, know what I mean. You may be all good while doing BLT but when it hits a higher pressure during a pull a leak may show. So do a BLT at a higher pressure and see what leaks you find.

 

[tips000]

if you havnt had your throttle body apart in a while it is a very good idea to clean it... even if that doesnt fix it (whick it very well could) it is still an important general maint. another idea... try softening your bov if it is adjustable....

 

[richard33]

Once again, bring it in to a shop because you are in way over your head.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Once again, bring it in to a shop because you are in way over your head.

This, in no way, contributes as a helpful post.


A couple of things that I would recommend would be, one of which has already been stated, fixing your remaining leaks and a fuel pump rewire. A friend of mine was having issues with sputtering and cutting out at 13PSI around 5K. After checking for leaks, changing TB's, and checking plugs/wires, I suggested he rewire his fuel pump and viola, perfect pull all the way to red-line on 17PSI.

You, however, really should focus on tracking down those remaining leaks and fixing them. Every leak only results in a loss of power and further adds to your problem. With each one fixed you'll notice a difference.

 

[Calan]

What Kei said ^.

The very first thing you should always do is eliminate ALL boost and exhaust leaks. If you have either of these, you will be chasing your tail when trying to nail down any "real" issues with the tune, fuel, etc.

A solid intake tract should allow you to hold 10 psi for well over a minute. You should be able to hold 20-25psi for at least 20-30 seconds, and bleed down to 0 psi very slowly after that.

Here is a screenshot of a typical BLT on my car, logged with a MAP sensor and ECMLink. Notice how it bleeds off at a slow rate from about 29psi at the peak, and holds more than 20 psi for around a minute and a half. It doesn't fall below 10psi until after 3 minutes or so (where the cursor is). That small amount of leakage is air getting past the relatively cool intake valves/piston rings and into the crankcase, which is normal.

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YMMV depending on the condition of your motor, but it should be possible to hold 10-15psi for at least a minute or so if the BLT is done properly.

 

[NFS]

I am having a similar problem! I lost power till i hit about 4-4 1\2 Rpm then it realy hits and am holding 16psi so no difference there. also i went to hit the throttle today and nothing happen! since i was headed to the shop i hooked up the OTC Scaner and had a code for fuel trim incorrect which would explain the major fuel smell coming out the exhaust! ???

 

[dr gonzo]

Like everyone said check for leaks. Also check for any pinched hoses. I had a similar issue and didn't noticed one of my hoses was bent sideways, and after I fixed that booom everything was gravy again. Bothered me though because I spend two weeks trying to fix the problem and changing my ignition stuff when the solution was a 30 second free fix.