custom manifold

[Natedsmeclipse]

Hey guys I am making my own manifold and was wondering if 16 ga aluminized steel is strong enough or do I need stainless steel?

 

[hubz91talontsi]

I wouldn't trust just 16g steel. I would atleast put some cermanic coating on that and wrap it up. That would make it much more safe.

 

[EmeryatSTM]

I would suggest schedule 10 or bigger for anything other then a track only car.


-Em

 

[Natedsmeclipse]

I wouldn't trust just 16g steel. I would atleast put some cermanic coating on that and wrap it up. That would make it much more safe.

i was going to cermanic coat it. do you know were i can get the right tubing stuff that already has been bent all i have to do is cut it and weld it?

 

[endeffect0]

you should be able find pipe online in the right thicknesses. consider getting pre-bent stuff just to save your self the PITA.

+1 for the schedule 10 tube.

when your fabing remember just how much weight will be hanging off that thing. some of the better setups i have seen have had some support bars back to the flange.

good luck!

 

[Imback]

Ace Stainless


Make sure to back purge your welds.

 

[Natedsmeclipse]

you should be able find pipe online in the right thicknesses. consider getting pre-bent stuff just to save your self the PITA.

+1 for the schedule 10 tube.

when your fabing remember just how much weight will be hanging off that thing. some of the better setups i have seen have had some support bars back to the flange.

good luck!

the only place i could find piping is ebay. and it not the right thikness only 16 gauge. dose anybody know some web sites?

 

[98turbo]

I wouldn't trust just 16g steel. I would atleast put some cermanic coating on that and wrap it up. That would make it much more safe.

Dont wrap or coat anything of "gauge" type steel pre-turbo. All your going to do is make everything on the inside hotter and kill the material. That type of material wasnt designed for turbo manifolds.

What youre looking for is "schedule pipe" not "tubing" gauge refers to tubing, which is not structurally sound for manifolds.

Either use schedule 10 or 40 for manifolds, it is much more durable, can take a ton of heat when being welded for good penetration, and can withstand a ton of heat for racing.

Thats what fabricators like JMFab, full-race, AFI turbo, etc use and it is the same stuff we use too.

you can find material like this at

Ace Stainless

or

McMaster-Carr



Also backpurging isnt neccesary unless its completely structural, downpipes, dumptubes, chargepiping i wouldnt even waste the gas on.

 

[Imback]

the only place i could find piping is ebay. and it not the right thikness only 16 gauge. dose anybody know some web sites?

Really did you not bother clicking the link i posted.

Also backpurging isnt neccesary unless its completely structural, downpipes, dumptubes, chargepiping i wouldnt even waste the gas on.

So then you spend all this money and time on making a manifold just to have massive burn through in the runners then? Whats the point of a nice tubular manifold if your going to have burn through obstructing flow inside of it. I'm also sure a chunk of burn through would do well inside the turbo.

 

[SpeedAddict62]

My manifold was made with 1.5" mild steel sch 40 90* pipe bends. These can be bought for several dollars a piece. Don't buy from McMaster, they charge too much. You can definitely find it online or locally (preferred, save on shipping) cheaper than them. Straight sections can be found at a scrapyard by the pound. Don't forget to either buy your flanges or make your own. We (my friend and I) used a flux core for tacking and then finish welded with a TIG. It was then painted with header paint, wrapped, and then coated with silicone coating. You can read more about the manifold here. One other thing I would advise is to check and double your dimensions, and do your mock up carefully. It will be very frustrating when you make your manifold and the turbo bolts on but there isn't enough room for the intake, IC, downpipe, oil lines, water lines (if applicable), etc.

One more thing: tools you will need. A welder is obviously required, as well a hacksaw and a grinder. A cutoff wheel and a pipe cutter are nice to have too. You can do whatever you need with these tools.

 

[98turbo]

Really did you not bother clicking the link i posted.




So then you spend all this money and time on making a manifold just to have massive burn through in the runners then? Whats the point of a nice tubular manifold if your going to have burn through obstructing flow inside of it. I'm also sure a chunk of burn through would do well inside the turbo.

I never siad NOT to use it on the manifold i said NON structural things like charge piping, downpipes and etc. Manifolds, have to be backpurged. on thinner smaller stuff i use pickling paste and that is a chemical form of backpurging. I have been welding for almost 15 years. been making manifolds for about 6. I have only had 1 manifold crack and thats because the customer pulled his motor out of the car with it haha.

Just finished a nice manifold for an rb26 with a holset turbo

 

[Diamondrev]

Ross Machine Racing 410-510-3023 - High Performance Aluminum Fuel Rail and Billet Aluminum Intake Manifolds and Manifold Parts

This might help.. click on "do it yourself intake manifold parts."

 

[TheBoz]

Ace Stainless, and Sch 10. I am running sch 40 and wow that stuff is a bi*** to cut and deal with. The 10 will work perfect and will be much easier to fabricate.

This thread has links and everything.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cus...6-building-forward-facing-turbo-manifold.html

Also if you are not super awesome at welding, I would recommend you pay a legit welder to do the work for you. Just tack it together and let them do the heavy lifting.

Good luck with your project.

 

[99gst_racer]

I would suggest schedule 10 or bigger for anything other then a track only car.


-Em

Hey Emery, why wouldn't you recommend sch10's for a track car?

 

[MIdsm]

My reading of Emery's message is that he recommends sch. 10 and above for daily drivers for longevity, but he doesn't exclude "track only cars." He didn't say not to use the material on "track only cars" he just said that for anything other than "track only cars" he recommends sch. 10 and above.

 

[Natedsmeclipse]

well guys i am about 1/2 way done with the manifold so i thought i would throw so pics up for you guys keep in mind this is my first manifold i have ever built.

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[LiquidX]

To me it looks good so far. Why did you choose to go top mount? Doing equal length and it appears to be divided. Throwing on the wastegate outlets at the end?

 

[Natedsmeclipse]

To me it looks good so far. Why did you choose to go top mount? Doing equal length and it appears to be divided. Throwing on the wastegate outlets at the end?

yes i am going with two open wastgates 38mm and i am running a holset turbo i just want to do a top mount turbo i think they look bad ass!

 

[caboose]

if you have a mig welder set up to weld stainless, why dont you just weld it all with the mig?

it looks like the 2to1s could have had another bead over the top of those before they were welded to the turbo mount, also you should be crescent mooning in between the two pieces instead of your straight back and forth noob welds.

 

[Natedsmeclipse]

Hey guys I have a problem the turbo sits to hi because its right in the way of the water out let take a look and tell me what you think. My plans are to drop the turbo 3.5" so that way I can run the air intake under the water line.

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[Natedsmeclipse]

well guys i dropped the flange 3.5" and its looking good i think take a look also is the an advantage for having long manifold piping?

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[vanilla gorilla]

I know nothing about building scratch manifolds..or even really what to look for, in the performance sense when building a mani.....
But the fab on that thing looks really good man. You done a great job.

 

[Diamondrev]

when you put the motor in the car is the manifold and turbo going to clear the radiator??

 

[Natedsmeclipse]

when you put the motor in the car is the manifold and turbo going to clear the radiator??

yes it will i measured it

 

[eclipsh]

Looks nice. I do wonder though, will it clear your alternator? Will you have room for your downpipe?

As far as the longer pipes, I am not sure it is a good thing. The hotter the gas going in the better, right? Won't the longer pipes cool the gas more and reduce the efficiency of the turbo?