Critique this custom manifold

[Doug118]

Just picked this up for $350. Welds are good but the inside of the T3 flange sucks so I'm cutting it off and putting a T4 on there for a smoother transition. Only thing I don't like about it is that the turbo inlet it right in the front of the bumper

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[91-GS]

Are those mild steel pipes welded to a stainless steel flange (on the engine side)? If so hopefully that person knew what he was doing because just using steel mig wire will produce a brittle weld that might crack soon.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Its most likely going to be a plated steel flange like most use for lower production costs! I could be wrong of course but as long as 309 filler wire was used they wnt be an issue if it is stainless, even 316 filler would still be fine.

Also if you dont like where the inlet is going to be why did you even buy it? Seems like you wasted your money to then complain about it

 

[Doug118]

Its most likely going to be a plated steel flange like most use for lower production costs! I could be wrong of course but as long as 309 filler wire was used they wnt be an issue if it is stainless, even 316 filler would still be fine.

Also if you dont like where the inlet is going to be why did you even buy it? Seems like you wasted your money to then complain about it

Because I'll live with it being far forward. $250 for a FP stock replacement or $350 for this? I'll put another $50 into it between the new t4 flange and WG flange. If it doesn't work the way I want, I can always sell it

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

You can get the fp manifolds for cheaper if you get them on sale or in the classifieds for around 150.

Dont forget to purge weld it aswell when you reweld the new flange on

 

[Archer Fabrications]

It looks like it's all mild steel from the rust... The welds look okay. But i i wouodnt call them good. Lets see some pix pf the inside of the collector. Heres what my manifold looks like on the inside if yours looks like crap you can always port it out.

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[Archer Fabrications]

For what it's worth, considering that the whole manifold is mild steel, it probably cost $200 to make in materials when it was new

 

[Doug118]

There isn't a front mount manifold anywhere for this price. Yeah I could have bought some "name brand" bottom mount manifold for more money but why spend more money on something that isn't exactly what I need? I swapped out the T3 flange for a T4 and the turbo is placed perfectly

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[taylork057]

i hope you have solid mounts with a turbo mount on the frame or engine mount to turbo. that thing is going to crack the first time you give it heat.

 

[Doug118]

Why would I need solid mounts?? It's getting braced back to the block where the 2 empty bolt holes are

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[Archer Fabrications]

If it's sch10 and mild steel it probably won't crack. My topmount isnt braced by anything and itsngot a ton of shit on it. Truth is it held everything just fine with only one runner that was tacked. Before it was finished. People dont give credit to welding. The only manifolds rhay crack are thinwall tube manifolds. And manifolds that were welded poorly. That my be welded poorly though but carbon steel is more ductile then stainless in general


Edit: is that t4 flange you put on there with just one stick welded tack? Make sure to chip off the slag when you are done and dont warp the flange durin welding. Is that lower runner where it meets thay weird collector cut too? Can you showna picture looking intonthe collector? It looks like a weird cast collector

 

[Doug118]

It had a tack on all 4 sides, which was done with a junk welder. It was final welded with a nice welder at a buddy's shop. I am extremely confident in the welds themself. The collector isn't ideal but I spoke to a few people who build 6-7 second drag cars and they said it's fine for what I'm trying to do. The bottom runner isn't cut but does look weird in the picture and the collector is mild steel

One thing I didn't take into consideration was where the wastegate was going to go. I didn't think it was going to be as tight of a fit all around so trying to find a good spot for it is tough. I could easily just weld a flange perpendicular to the collector but I refuse to ever place a wastegate any more than 45 degrees off the collector

 

[Archer Fabrications]

It had a tack on all 4 sides, which was done with a junk welder. It was final welded with a nice welder at a buddy's shop. I am extremely confident in the welds themself. The collector isn't ideal but I spoke to a few people who build 6-7 second drag cars and they said it's fine for what I'm trying to do. The bottom runner isn't cut but does look weird in the picture and the collector is mild steel

One thing I didn't take into consideration was where the wastegate was going to go. I didn't think it was going to be as tight of a fit all around so trying to find a good spot for it is tough. I could easily just weld a flange perpendicular to the collector but I refuse to ever place a wastegate any more than 45 degrees off the collector

I have a 90* on both my wastegates and i dont sre any creep at all as low as 18psi on my 6466

 

[SasaniFab]

the exhaust housing looks extremely close to the oil filter. Is this a concern?

 

[Doug118]

It's about 4x further away than the downpipe was with the 16g. I've seen people have their downpipes be less than an inch away from their filter. I can easily fit my hand between the oil filter housing and downpipe so I have no worries about that at all

 

[coconut27]

Nice looks good hope all comes out good

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well did it crack yet? Lol

 

[Doug118]

It has a s480 hanging from it now so we will see what happens next season