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Crank oil seal repair?

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renovatdkitchen

10+ Year Contributor
622
38
Sep 25, 2011
Toronto, ON, Canada
Hi,
I have searched and not found an answser to the question.

How difficult is it to replace the crank seal on a 4G63? Reason for asking, is im looking at buying another Talon while the mid build beast is asleep.

Thank You.
 
Crank seal is behind the crank shaft so you have to remove the oil pump for some easy some not, its a lot of work, if no bs are there easy if not you have to pull the engine to remove the oil pump at least thats how did it.
 
It depends on what oil seal you are talking about. There is one on each end of the crankshaft. IF it is the one on the timing side than it is rather easy. You DO NOT have to remove the oi pump. You pull the timing cover and timing belt, than remove the timing balance shaft gears from the crank. From there you can pry the old seal out and tap a new one in. If it is the transmission side seal than you will either have to remove the transmission or or engine. If it is a 6 bolt than you will need to remove the oil pan and remove the rear seal retainer (some leave the pan on), If it is a 7 bolt than you can just pry the old seal out and drive a new one in. Sometimes the seal surface on the crank will be damaged and require a sleeve to be installed on the crank.
 
Should have been more precise. Yep, it's the seal on the timing belt side. Sounds simple enough. I'm not a mechanic, but love doing my own work on the car. So far haven't had a problem with the help of tuners and google. Seems like a days work and no more.

Thank you very much guys for replying.
 
The trans or engine will have to come out of the car so you have acess to the rear main seal.

Then you can A) just remove the seal and install the new one
B) remove the seal plate from the block and oil pan and R&R the rear main seal, and re seal the plate to the block/oil pan

Doh... waited too long to submit.....
 
Should have been more precise. Yep, it's the seal on the timing belt side. Sounds simple enough. I'm not a mechanic, but love doing my own work on the car. So far haven't had a problem with the help of tuners and google. Seems like a days work and no more.

Thank you very much guys for replying.

It would be smart to replace the timing and balance shaft belts while you are in there. Oil on those will cause them to fail fast.
 
bryanwheat is correct. Except the part of the balance shaft gears needing to come off. They do not need to come off. Once your timing belt is off, your balance shaft belt, timing gear, trigger plate, and balance belt gear (on the crank), then you can get right in there and pull the old one out with a screwdriver or a pick of any sort. Be gentle putting the new one in, and make sure the edges aren't folding over, it will cause a big leak!

And I'm sure you know you need to drain your oil first before all of this :D
 
Or delete the balance shaft belts all together, replaced belt,tensioner, and pulleys and a water pump i never used oem one wayy to much other brands have held up just fine since 94 when i did my
timing belt job. Learned a lot with only a manual, replace gaskets and seals, im doing a full rebuild now.
 
Thank you guys for all the help. The guy says that the timing belt has recently been done, and from pictures it seems that it has. Should be good to go. Doesn't seem like its too bad.

..just make sure that the spring side is facing inward with you do any seals...

I've done front mains without draining the pan .... oil level is way below the crank...

Hi,
Which spring?
 
Belt may be fine but how about the other components, dont guess, a failed tensioner can men a head job not fun, nor cheap, 90 bucks versus hundreds you have one less thing to worry about.
 
Or delete the balance shaft belts all together, replaced belt,tensioner, and pulleys and a water pump i never used oem one wayy to much other brands have held up just fine since 94 when i did my
timing belt job. Learned a lot with only a manual, replace gaskets and seals, im doing a full rebuild now.

If I delete the belt, wouldnt I have to put something in te balance shafts place? Or would just snipping the belt work as well? And if I loosen the timing belt, would I have to change the water pump? I've read in some places that relieving it of tension breaks its seal or something rather?

Thank you!
 
Never heard of that bse kit on vendor sites, i did the delete shafts and all if you pull the engine thats just me. water pump while your there i would 45 bucks for one or 40 held up fine cheap insurance just some ideas thats all and your budget and so forth.
 
And changing the water pump and tensioner is easy once the timing belt is off
That's the easy part. I do a pump in 20min (just silicone the gasket on the WP first so you won't be fighting it on installation) and tensioner is two bolts and you're done - just don't pull the grenade pin until you're good and ready.


Hi .. sorry on that ... the seal has a spring that goes around the entire opening of the teflon seal itself.

The spring needs to face inward on any seal replacement - like mains, cam, driveshaft, et.al.
 
Alright. Will be looking at the talon in person this Friday. If all goes well, I'll pick up all the needed parts (have a brand new water pump and gates blue timing belt sitting arround here due to a change in plans). Will also get that oil seal and the tensioner. Would it be worth it to do a bse while I'm there or will that add a lot of work to remove the oil pump and all?
 
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