Cracked block

[dontkillme63]

So have a crack in the side of my block right next to the main timing belt pulley, spits oil all over the place. Im trying to figure out what could have caused this anybody have any ideas?

 

[StarionGSX]

FYI

If you have a wrench with a boxed end on both sides then use a pressure plate bole and a bell housing bolt and run them through the box end wrench. Now the wrench will stop the flywheel from turning.

Not my pic but it illustrates what I'm talking about.

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[dontkillme63]

I just used an impact gun and they all came right out without a problem.

 

[BogusSVO]

That looks like a BS bearing.

Have some pics of the inside of the block?

Have you pulled the front case yet?

 

[dontkillme63]

I have not pulled the front case yet, plan on doing that this afternoon. I will get inside the block pics as well.

Alright front case is pulled along with balance shaft.

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It was definitely the balance shaft bearing.

 

[dontkillme63]

So my question now is, seeing as it was the balance shaft bearing would i be able to just get a new aluminum front case and oil pump and all new gaskets, balance shaft delete and just put the block back together with the current pistons and crack?

 

[BogusSVO]

I would add bearings and rings.

Tear the engine all the way down and clean all the oil galleys, you have metal in the entire oiling system.

For the head, pull the cams, and HLAs. Then remove the oil galley plugs and clean all them.

 

[dontkillme63]

Alright I will do that while i have it this far apart. I was already planning to put new valves, springs, and cams in the head. I should be able to use stock bearings or would the crank be worn needing thicker bearings? Any recommendations on the current intake mani, I am currently running the stock mani but I was wondering about going sheet metal manifold. Also would it be worth it to find someone to port and polish the head while i have it completly apart?

 

[BogusSVO]

Doubtful you need a sheet metal intake

Port work would be good, it helps, but find a decent porter that will not leave snail trails all in your runners.

Better yet, check with the supporting vendors and just buy a head built for what you need.

This close to Halloween, I just do not want to read another cylinder head horror story, or worse yet, have another come across my bench.

The crank needs to be mic'ed then bearings ordered.
You use thicker bearings when the crank is ground undersized.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Also, do not re-use the oil cooler that bolts to the oil filter housing. Chances are its full of metal shavings, and is next to impossible to get cleaned out. If you re-use, you will likely trash your bearings on start up.
Edit: just noticed you had a 90. If you have the external oil cooler, flush it out, or get a new one.

 

[dontkillme63]

I may just get the STM oil cooler, mines definitely seen better days. I wouldn't be opposed to buying a pre done up head but I currently have two heads sitting here at my house. As for Mic'ing the crank would a machine shop be able to do that?

 

[BogusSVO]

Yes any machine shop with a decent set of Mics can do that.

With the head, you would have to ship one back for a core.

 

[dontkillme63]

Alright. Bogus, don't you do machine work/rebuilding dsm heads? How would i clean up the top of the block for a new head gasket? its pretty nasty

 

[BogusSVO]

See that link in my sig???
down there??
VVVVVVVVV

Click it.... all will be reviled!

 

[dontkillme63]

Hmmm so definately no belt sanding huh. I need to find a good machine shop around here.