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Cracked block

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The cast iron block? Or the Aluminum front case?

Yes some up close pics of where you see the crack,
 
I doubt the block is cracked, likely the aluminum oil pump. Possibly cracked from improper installation / bolt torque.
 
Front case sounds more likely than block. Agreed. Ive seen hairline cracks in blocks but it was on the deck.
 
Thx guys, I am currently in the process of taking the engine out. Has a loud knocking/ticking noise on the lower end. I am planning on rebuilding it from the ground up the right way this time. The previous owner said he did but from everything I have already seen messed up with the car I doubt it.
 
.50 cal.


















It's a possibility.
bahahaha!!!!!^
ROFL

On a side note, if it is the Al front case, that can be replaced. new from mitsu they are 160 i think. or you can get one on here pretty easy in the classifieds.

As for the knocking sounds, thats probably the rod bearings considering its shooting oil all over. probably starved the oil pump. So a rebuild will be required. new rods, remachine the crank, new oil pump obviously. lets see some pictures though so we can see whats going on
 
I will keep you guys posted, I am currently taking it apart slowly still trying to find an engine lift. The knocking sound only happens when the car revs over 2k rpms.

How does one remove the oil pan? I removed all the bolts but its RTV'd to the block and I tried getting between the two with a screw driver and knife and neither worked.
 
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Well I got the engine out of my car, sorry it took so long I dont have an engine lift so i had to lower the block using floor jacks. I don't see any cracks on the block thankfully, working on pulling the flywheel off now so i can get it on my engine stand and pull the timing belt side covers off.
 
Nope still cant get the pan off, that thing is stuck on there. Need to buy a flywheel holder or something cause everything ive tried hasnt worked. The block is currently sitting on a tire next to my car and next to the engine stand haha.
 
You need to use an impact gun to loosen the flywheel bolts. Works fine, last long time
 
Take a block of wood 2x4 or something, set it on the lip and hit the hell out of it. If that doesn't take it off just go to the other side and do the same all the way around. The wood will keep it from smashing up the pan or hurting anything else.
 
The pan is already dented more than stock, the previous owner used a small floor jack to lift on it. I plan on buying a new one or using the one off the second engine i got.

Guess i need to go buy an air compressor and an impact gun. Been doing everything with a breaker bar.
 
There are six squares in the center of the flywheel. shove a pry bar in there and turn till it wedges on the side of the block. Then use your breaker bar. It will keep it from rotating. Impact is always easier, but I do it this way because I get lazy to roll out the air hose.
 
Ill try that tonight. I was at 350hp according to dsmlink before the knock started, however I do not know how accurate that is. I am planning for 500 awhp but we shall see. I just got the energy suspension poly bushings so im going to take the sub frames apart and clean/repaint them while im doing the bushings.
 
Alright so I got my engine on a stand and got the pan off. There was a pile of metal shavings in the bottom of the pan and one of the bearings fell out when I rolled the engine.

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