2G Coolant Wiring Issue

[2ndGenOrDie]

Hey guys,
I've seen people having this issue, but have not seen an answer.

My coolant temperature gauge (stock) is showing inaccurate readings. Anytime I turn on the headlights, press the brake pedal, or run my a/c fan the temp gauge rises instantly, but will fall just as fast back to normal if I turn them off. Additionally, the temp gauge rises and falls according to RPM. I rewired both the gauge sensor and the CTS and also replaced the gauge sensor. I believe I have a melted or damaged wire somewhere because this began (I think) when my coolant boweled out of the filler neck. (Also have symptoms of CW and a bad HG which is why I was burping the system).

I see a wire that is damaged on the four pin socket that goes to the radiator fan. Is there anything I am overlooking? Can this wire be the source of the problem?

Don't be afraid to ask for more information or photos. I am having trouble remembering all the problems I am having that could possibly relate to this.

Thanks.

 

[luv2rallye]

You may have a bad (floating) ground. Check battery negative to body, a different battery negative (very large one) to starter mounting bolt, and a flexible mesh flat cable from intake manifold to body.

 

[jimsgsx]

You definitely have a wire touching something.

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

You may have a bad (floating) ground. Check battery negative to body, a different battery negative (very large one) to starter mounting bolt, and a flexible mesh flat cable from intake manifold to body.

That actually sparks some ideas in my head. The ground from the intake manifold to body on my car caught my eye the other day because it looks like it could be fixed. Thanks for the reply.

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

Update:

I found what I believe to be the starter ground is actually bolted to the firewall. I have a big, thick ground cable from my negative battery post down to the rear engine mount. I already have a ground from the negative on the battery to the firewall, so what I am thinking is switching the ground from the rear engine mount up to the start bolt and testing it out. Sound correct?

 

[luv2rallye]

Starter mounting bolt should have it's own very large cable directly to battery negative (not firewall or anywhere else). Another separate large cable should go from battery negative to firewall. For better performance a smaller flexible braid should also go from intake manifold to firewall (although this one isn't as important as the other two which are absolute musts).

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

Starter mounting bolt should have it's own very large cable directly to battery negative (not firewall or anywhere else). Another separate large cable should go from battery negative to firewall. For better performance a smaller flexible braid should also go from intake manifold to firewall (although this one isn't as important as the other two which are absolute musts).

Ya the ground cable I found was very thick gauge and goes directly from the battery negative to the motor mount. I will move this ground to the starter bolt. I do occasionally have a no start issue.

 

[luv2rallye]

Make sure all the large cables are not hard (still somewhat flexible), not brittle, have clean terminal ends (and what they attach to on both ends), no corrosion, and tight connections. It will make a world of difference starting in all weather conditions.

 

[2ndGenOrDie]

Thank you sir! I will give an update soon.