Coolant problem

[DSMGary]

Hi,

After reading all similar coolant threads... i think i have come to the conclusion that i may have a bad t-stat. Please help me confirm this...

-My overflow is "overflowing" - as in its spewing out coolant out of the overflow tube.

-Coolant temps are still normal.

-I have removed the cap and let the car warm up from a cold start and the coolant is overflowing from the t-stat housing/rad cap opening.

-I have squeezed the upper rad hose in attempts to remove any air traps... no luck, just coolant comes up and out...

Please help me confirm my diagnosis...

Thanks in advance!

 

[nuclearr]

Its either the thermostat or a blow head gasket.

The way these cars are designed you can not run them with the cap off it will continue to over flow and when the t-stat opens it will blow the coolant out of the cap.

 

[xXEclipse]

Probably your Thermostat, My first thing would be Blown Head but your running normal Temp so Its not that..

 

[DSMGary]

Okay... Thanks for the info guys...!

I will swap out my t-stat this weekend... Will let you peeps know of the outcome...

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

A few quick things...

1 : Perform a compression test for good measure. Look for a low number in any 1 cylinder.

2 : Pressure test the coolant system. This will expose any leaks.

3 : Is Oil mixing with your Oil? Is oil mixing with your Coolant?

4 : Can you smell Coolant being burnt from your exhaust? It is a distinctive sweet smell.

5 : A leakdown test will also provide good results if you have the tools available.

 

[SpawnedX]

How often does your coolant overflow actually overflow?

 

[DSMGary]

Hey guys, thanks for all your help thus far...!

I couldn't wait until the weekend, so i picked up a t-stat on my way from work. Swapped it... Its still doing the same things...

More detail:
-No oil mixing in coolant, no coolant in oil
-I have not done a comp and/or leak-down yet.
-The exhaust smells as it should, not sweet coolant type.
-The overflow never used to over flow... just started to afew days back.


(I also have some other questions, may or may not be related... whats a good temp rated T-stat to use on this car, my options were 160, 180, 192, 194... i chose 160. Second question, whats the temp the car switches from openloop to closedloop...?)

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

I wouldn't recommend putting anything other than the OE recommended temperature. On a 2g is 180, but im not sure what it is one the 1g.

 

[BigBeans]

i chose 160. Second question, whats the temp the car switches from openloop to closedloop...?)

You need the car to get to 190 for the car to run properly (closed loop learn mode on a 1G).


Usually you'll see temps 5-10 degrees higher than the t-stat rating, which means you won't get there.

 

[DSMGary]

You need the car to get to 190 for the car to run properly (closed loop learn mode on a 1G).


Usually you'll see temps 5-10 degrees higher than the t-stat rating, which means you won't get there.

k....... I will get a hotter one... its only 10 bucks and 5 mins of labor. Still doesnt change the fact that i a have bigger fish to fry... I will be doing a comp test 2morrow... Thanks in advance for all the help!

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Wait, hold it! Did you buy a new cap yet. Reason I asked is because when the fluid gets hot the cap rubber or sealer spring activates and stops fluid from going into your reservior!
Open the radiator cap before you start your car or before it gets to hot. Open the cap and have the defroster on and the temp all the way to hot.
That should activate your fan or something and when the fan turns on "I think" it flows the coolant to your heater core and around your system to get any possible air out. If it sinks down add more fluid to eliminate more air.
Also make sure you have more coolant then water mixture.
jafro the man...
YouTube - Engine coolant system and compression testing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QA7KVQq9vKA&feature=related

 

[DSMGary]

First off... i would like to thank all of you that help... you guys are a big help and a great asset to the DSM community.

It was as simple as (re)torquing the head back down. After doing the head, and re-torque after 2 days of driving i thought it should have been enough... but 2000Kms later the head gasket needed to be tightened down again...

Not alll i have to do is get a 180F t-stat again... FYI...my car runs like a s s with the 160 in it... i cant get any heat either...

Anyways thanks again!

 

[DSM1G90]

You need a 195*F T-stat for the sensor and ECU communication to operate properly. That is your closed loop goal to attain.

Otherwise, the sensors are going to tell the ECU to keep shoving fuel in the system to get the thing up to 195* and you'll be suffering in mileage and continuing to run on the rich side.

Oh, have you flushed out the radiator totally, by taking it off and give it a good flush job to were all of the gunk that loves to reside in the bottom of the radiator is eliminated out the lower end hose fitting - and flushed out the block as well?

Good luck - DSM

 

[DSMGary]

You need a 195*F T-stat for the sensor and ECU communication to operate properly. That is your closed loop goal to attain.

Otherwise, the sensors are going to tell the ECU to keep shoving fuel in the system to get the thing up to 195* and you'll be suffering in mileage and continuing to run on the rich side.

Oh, have you flushed out the radiator totally, by taking it off and give it a good flush job to were all of the gunk that loves to reside in the bottom of the radiator is eliminated out the lower end hose fitting - and flushed out the block as well?

Good luck - DSM

I went to the local friendly dealership to see if they would be able to tell me what temp t-stat. They brought out service manual for the car and it stated that my car needs a 190F (like BigBeans mentioned).

So i have installed the 190F T-stat, all is well.... for now...