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Coolant lines to gt35r turbo?

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uberswede

10+ Year Contributor
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Mar 29, 2010
Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Just as the title states, I've got a Garrett gt53r turbo on my 1g-swapped '97 Talon, and I'm looking to start cooling stuff down a little more. On top of that, I recently heard that if you have a turbo with the plumbing for coolant in the center section that you SHOULD plumb coolant to it.

Anyways, I'm just basically wondering how/where anybody else tapped the coolant to go to their turbos. I want to get this done ASAP.
 
Source it as if it were a factory T25/14B- one line to the thermostat housing, one to the the water pipe.

Ball bearing GT turbos do require coolant no matter what due to the tiny amount of oil they receive; you don't necessarily need to run coolant to a journal bearing turbo.
 
So are there lines already there that are easy enough to tap into? Or am I going to have to tap into metal itself?

Forgive me here; the car had a crap aftermarket turbo already when I got it, so I don't know where those lines were/are to the factory turbo.

Oh, like i mentioned, it IS a 1g swap too... So that may change things


And as for the second half of your post; are you saying it IS required with the turbo I have? Or is mine "journal bearing"? This car is basically how I'm learning about EVERYTHING right now, so any and all info/pics are much appreciated.
 
So are there lines already there that are easy enough to tap into? Or am I going to have to tap into metal itself?
As long as the engine doesn't have a non-turbo water pipe or thermostat housing, the lines should still be there.

And as for the second half of your post; are you saying it IS required with the turbo I have? Or is mine "journal bearing"?
As long as it's a real Garrett GT35R, it's a ball bearing turbo.
 
I'll have to look at which water-pipe and thermostat housings we used when we put the motor together...

As for the turbo, yes, it's a real Garrett. It's been on the car for maybe 10,000-11,000 kms now, most of which was low-boost and nice driving... Is there potential for me to have damaged the turbo without coolant so far? I had the inlet pipe off not long ago, and the fins still spin beautifully even with just a flick. Hell, I can blow on it and it spins pretty freely.
 
The more I think about this, the more I'm worrying. There was definitely no stock coolant lines run. I've got next week off from work so I'd like to get this situation rectified ASAP.
 
Don't know if you've got your answer or not but here's what the coolant pipe looks like for the 6 bolts (universal as far as I know).
The line circled in yellow is your coolant to turbo line, if that's not there then you have a n/t coolant pipe.
 

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Its definitely a matter of opinion. I say coolant is not necessary if you are using a proper size restrictor and get enough oil to the turbo. A reason to not use them is because it can be a pain finding right lines, fittings, etc for them and its another thing that can cause problems. Also a lot 6 bolt water pipes dont have nipples on them for coolant feed/return lines. Its a personal opinion.
 
This clears things up a BIT more for me, thanks guys, but not entirely yet.

It would definitely appear that I have an N/T coolant pipe.

I would still like to, however, run cooling for the turbo. If I can't find somewhere to tape into, then I might just build an entirely separate system all-together; maybe a separate reservoir of coolant with its own pump and maybe even a small cooler rad as well.
 
Coolant is not necessary for all ball bearing turbos. I've been running a PTE 6262 for 1000s of miles with only oil and have had 0 problems with it.
That's asking for problems. Ball bearing turbos use such little oil that the coolant is necessary at all times to keep the cartridge from overheating causing oil coking and bearing wear / damage.

Its definitely a matter of opinion. I say coolant is not necessary if you are using a proper size restrictor and get enough oil to the turbo.
So you feel the coolant ports on a GT35R CHRA are merely a suggestion, and that the center housing will get plenty of oil to keep it cool using the 1/32" restrictor recommended by Garrett.

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They don't put coolant ports on the CHRA's because they feel like it or figure of user "wants to use coolant lines" they are there for a purpose, but if you have $1500 laying around to replace your prematurely cooked turbo then go ahead, don't use them. I have a billet PTE 6235R on the way and I'm sure as shit going to be using the coolant lines on it. But to each his own I guess...
 
They don't put coolant ports on the CHRA's because they feel like it or figure of user "wants to use coolant lines" they are there for a purpose, but if you have $1500 laying around to replace your prematurely cooked turbo then go ahead, don't use them. I have a billet PTE 6235R on the way and I'm sure as shit going to be using the coolant lines on it. But to each his own I guess...

^true...CHRA ports are there because they need the coolant to cool it down. It was also recommended I use a restrictor on it as well from throwing too much oil into the turbo...
 
^ Couldn’t agree more. You don’t spend the money on a garrett gt35r just to half it without coolant lines, you’re better than that. So you’ll definitely want to switch out to a turbo water pipe, it makes life easy. If you look back at that photo Buhay6 posted, that’s the same pipe I’m using with a 1g head. The part with the yellow circle, I’ve heard people say you can get away with leaving that on and just bend it a bit to fit, even on a gt35r but I found it difficult and feared I’d kink the line so ended up taking that water line off and used a m16x1.5 fitting there to fit my hose.
 
That's asking for problems. Ball bearing turbos use such little oil that the coolant is necessary at all times to keep the cartridge from overheating causing oil coking and bearing wear / damage.


So you feel the coolant ports on a GT35R CHRA are merely a suggestion, and that the center housing will get plenty of oil to keep it cool using the 1/32" restrictor recommended by Garrett.

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I should have been more clear.. Im not sure what restrictor Garrett recommends but I am using the recommended restrictor by Precision on my 6262. I'm honestly not sure what size it is but I don't believe it is as restrictive as that 1/32" restrictor. So yes I do feel the coolant ports are a "suggestion".. at least on my Precision CHRA. If you actually look at the new designed Precision CHRA's they did away with the coolant ports and just put ducts for air to pass through for cooling. I actually was running coolant for a couple thousands miles with my 6262 before I got my Buschur Stage 3 engine and I had nothing but problems with the coolant lines. Buschur actually suggested to me to not even bother running the coolant lines and I agreed. If I'm not mistaken I believe he doesn't use coolant lines on his own evo's which have ball bearing turbos. If the OP feels safer running coolant to the turbo then by all means run coolant through your turbo.
 
Well, now I just feel like a complete n00b :S

Why is that restrictor recommended on the oil inlet?

Also, what are other options for the cooling ports other than coolant? I've considered even running just an air line to it of some sorts, with a constant stream of fresh air being pushed through by a fan of sorts... This could potentially cool the center of the turbo more than running fairly hot coolant through it...
 
Why is that restrictor recommended on the oil inlet?

Turbo By Garrett FAQ said:
Q. Does my turbo require an oil restrictor?

A. Oil requirements depend on the turbo's bearing system type. Garrett has two types of bearing systems; traditional journal bearing; and ball bearing. The journal bearing system in a turbo functions very similarly to the rod or crank bearings in an engine. These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort. Garrett distributors can tell you the recommended range of acceptable oil pressures for your particular turbo. Restrictor size will always depend on how much oil pressure your engine is generating-there is no single restrictor size suited for all engines. Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo. The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance.
:thumb:
 
my friend did that in his and his rear bearing got stressed and started leaking and coming apart. i would rebuild and run water. clean slate
 
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