Coolant in cylinders after new head

[Boostdclips99]

The story begins when I bought my 99 GSX and began to swap over my mods from my GST . I went to install the cams and found a gouged journal. So I purchase a re-manufactured from a company out of WV. After some time I finally get the new head installed with ARP studs and a composite gasket. All the torque sequences were proper followed with ARP moly lube and proper tension. I start the car while still on the jack stands and let it to run to properly heated up. I re-torque the studs and let it run again. All of a sudden white smoke pours out of the exhaust. I check the plugs and they are soaking wet. Check oil and sure enough it has coolant in it. I pull the head think I must have screwed something up with the studs the first time.

I get a new head gasket and start the process over. After getting it put back together I decide to torque the studs down a little harder and pray. Run through the first heat cycle and re-torque. Start it back up and i'll be d@mn if it doesn't push coolants into the cylinders again. The car never saw the road or was under boost.

Now the company said the head was decked and pressure tested but I'm starting to wonder if someone was sleeping on the job that day. I have a 1 year warranty on the head so I'm thinking I should send it back. I know it cannot be the block because it was running fine before. Should I take it to a machine shop just to double check that its not me and it is in fact the head? Or could there be another culprit?

 

[pj91gsx]

What did you use to torque the head, antisieze, motor oil, ect? How tight, and what kind of gasket are you using?

 

[Boostdclips99]

What did you use to torque the head, antisieze, motor oil, ect? How tight, and what kind of gasket are you using?

Used a standard torque wrench in 20-40-60-90. I used the arp moly on both thread ends. Using a Mitsubishi Composite gasket.

 

[costas14]

cylinder head must be junk

 

[pj91gsx]

Using a Mitsubishi Composite gasket.

i think thats your problem. You cant torque that head gasket too much more than standard. Does the gasket appear to seal when you remove it?

 

[DougR]

You said " I scraped it clean and used 400 grit sandpaper" !!
The 400 grit is the problem! Anyone remember the video of the guy milling a block?
Showing what happens when a builder uses sandpaper on the block surface?!
You have sanded low spots all over that block which is exactly where you are pushing coolant.
Bet ya 5$ that once you get that block decked you won't push coolant anymore.

 

[pj91gsx]

Did you use copper coat spray on the gasket?

 

[crimsondragon]

You said " I scraped it clean and used 400 grit sandpaper" !!
The 400 grit is the problem! Anyone remember the video of the guy milling a block?
Showing what happens when a builder uses sandpaper on the block surface?!
You have sanded low spots all over that block which is exactly where you are pushing coolant.
Bet ya 5$ that once you get that block decked you won't push coolant anymore.

Hand sanding will do that. However, if you use a plane of glass, which is 99% of the time flat across the plane, it should be fine. OP, what did you use to check for straightness besides a ruler? The proper way to do it is position the straight edge diagonally from one corner to the other and check with a feeler gauge. Sometimes the eye cannot see it fully. I'd do it for both the head and the block.

 

[Boostdclips99]

i think thats your problem. You cant torque that head gasket too much more than standard. Does the gasket appear to seal when you remove it?

I used the composite because I was not pulling the motor out to deck it. I figured if it was a MLS then it definitely would not seal right. The gasket didn't appear to be sealed completely because it only stuck in a few spots and the entire gasket was wet.

Did you use copper coat spray on the gasket?

Yes, both times

Hand sanding will do that. However, if you use a plane of glass, which is 99% of the time flat across the plane, it should be fine. OP, what did you use to check for straightness besides a ruler? The proper way to do it is position the straight edge diagonally from one corner to the other and check with a feeler gauge. Sometimes the eye cannot see it fully. I'd do it for both the head and the block.

Used a straight edge from corner to corner and did not see any low spots. I don't believe I sanded it hard enough to create high spots on the block, it was just enough to get the remaining material off. I'll recheck just to make sure though.

 

[TOONAH]

"I used the composite because I was not pulling the motor out to deck it. I figured if it was a MLS then it definitely would not seal right. The gasket didn't appear to be sealed completely because it only stuck in a few spots and the entire gasket was wet."
Sounds like the head is warped..... I am interested in your situation because I just took the head back off a 4g63 that was never fired up and I noticed that pre-lube oil had seeped all over the MLS gasket surface. I cleaned the thing and the decks with rubbing alcohol and fresh shop towels before I assembled it. I turned the motor upside down on the stand several times. I cannot explain how the oil got from the cylinders onto the gasket seal surfaces. Let us know how yours turns out.

 

[talon14turbo]

...I used the arp moly on both thread ends. Using a Mitsubishi Composite gasket.

This could be a problem. I was told that you only apply the moly lube to the top threads. Do not apply the lube to the threads going in the block. I bet if you make sure the threads are completely clean & dry going in the block, you will have a better result.

 

[Boostdclips99]

"I used the composite because I was not pulling the motor out to deck it. I figured if it was a MLS then it definitely would not seal right. The gasket didn't appear to be sealed completely because it only stuck in a few spots and the entire gasket was wet."
Sounds like the head is warped..... I am interested in your situation because I just took the head back off a 4g63 that was never fired up and I noticed that pre-lube oil had seeped all over the MLS gasket surface. I cleaned the thing and the decks with rubbing alcohol and fresh shop towels before I assembled it. I turned the motor upside down on the stand several times. I cannot explain how the oil got from the cylinders onto the gasket seal surfaces. Let us know how yours turns out.

Head was check for warpage and came back fine. Sure will

This could be a problem. I was told that you only apply the moly lube to the top threads. Do not apply the lube to the threads going in the block. I bet if you make sure the threads are completely clean & dry going in the block, you will have a better result.

Yeah I was contemplating on this being a possible culprit but I don't see were it could hurt having it on both side. Maybe anti seize?

 

[talon14turbo]

It can hurt by being on the bottom treads for 1, because it can seep on the heads as you torque them down. Just like having oil or water in the bolt holes, it will seep on the gasket surface causing the gasket not to seal properly.

 

[pj91gsx]

Dont forget the torquing pattern too, start from the inside and work your way out.

 

[Boostdclips99]

It can hurt by being on the bottom treads for 1, because it can seep on the heads as you torque them down. Just like having oil or water in the bolt holes, it will seep on the gasket surface causing the gasket not to seal properly.

I remember that next time

Dont forget the torquing pattern too, start from the inside and work your way out.

Definitely, I followed proper pattern both times. Any suggestions other than using a composite gasket?

 

[pj91gsx]

I remember that next time



Definitely, I followed proper pattern both times. Any suggestions other than using a composite gasket?

And dont forget the 3 or 5 step torquing sequence.

 

[Brianawd]

Head was check for warpage and came back fine

I am willing to bet that the head was over heated bad before you or that place you got it from got it. Once a aluminum head is over heated bad they are junk. I have seen it first hand with a mitsu head and a Honda head. Once you got some heat into them they would twist and leak coolant into the cylinders or out the side of the block. When the head was cold it would seal

 

[pj91gsx]

I am willing to bet that the head was over heated bad before you or that place you got it from got it. Once a aluminum head is over heated bad they are junk. I have seen it first hand with a mitsu head and a Honda head. Once you got some heat into them they would twist and leak coolant into the cylinders or out the side of the block. When the head was cold it would seal

Then would he be able to tell if he set the head gasket up to the head and see if it is misaligned?

 

[Boostdclips99]

so is the consensus, that the head is garbage? I really hate to purchase another head and that not be the problem.

 

[talon14turbo]

I say you should try one more time since you say that the head checked out straight. But this time make certain that the head surface is completely clean, no oil, no water, nothing. If you have oil in the head, it can leak out through the bolt holes or oil passages to the head to block surface. So clean inside the head so it will not leak oil as you try to install the head. Remember, only put the moly lube on the top threads of the arp studs and make sure the mounting holes are clean and dry.

 

[costas14]

i asked one of the mechanics at the shop who is ase certified he said to return it and get a new head, i recommend slowboy racing

BTW ive overheated both my 4g63 so many times until they got fixed and there fine, but the theory is once aluminium overheats the engine and head are junk, thats why when u overheat a bmw your in for a 5K+ job

 

[pj91gsx]

i asked one of the mechanics at the shop who is ase certified he said to return it and get a new head, i recommend slowboy racing

BTW ive overheated both my 4g63 so many times until they got fixed and there fine, but the theory is once aluminium overheats the engine and head are junk, thats why when u overheat a bmw your in for a 5K+ job

my brother blew a headgasket on his bmw L6. He replaced the motor.

 

[costas14]

my brother blew a headgasket on his bmw L6. He replaced the motor.

yup because the headbolts wont go back in, so you need a new block its in the service manuals and on alldata, we bought a 2000 325i for 500 bucks mint with a blown headgasket and thats how we learned about it though locktight kept the bolts down on the block pretty good until the head sorta blew off

 

[motomattxxx]

Quit spraying copper sh1t on the gasket also! Are you sure that you dont have coolant from the throttle body leaking into the intake instead?