Resolved Constant clicking/ticking coming from near ABS module when key to ON

[Kryndon]

So I just finished adjusting my driver side door window to get rid of the notorious rattle. The only thing related to electricity that I touched was unplugging (and plugging) the driver side door control panel and leaving the door open for an hour or two while doing my repairs.

After awhile I noticed that the power windows started acting very slow, I thought it was my battery getting low on juice. So at that point I stopped and put everything back together. Then, when I put the key to ON, immediately I could hear a constant clicking/ticking. It was very loud, coming from around the ABS module (front left driver side behind the fender). Interestingly, if I held the power window button down or up, the clicking would stop. But as soon as I let go of the button, the clicking would come back on like a raging AK-47 on full auto. I then measured my battery voltage and it was 10.41 volts, which is obviously too low.

I just don't see what other part or relay could be clicking from around that area. It's a Canadian spec Talon with DRLs but I have disabled the DRL system a long time ago. And as far as I saw, the power window relay is inside the car above the interior fuse box. The clicking was definitely coming from the engine bay around the ABS module.

Anyone got any ideas?

 

[motomattx]

If your battery is that low then its likely the abs module is trying to reset over and over because of the low voltage and your hearing that.

 

[Kryndon]

If your battery is that low then its likely the abs module is trying to reset over and over because of the low voltage and your hearing that.

Alright let me throw you this curveball then. Ever since I've owned the car, the ABS light has been on, permanently. The only thing that it does is the ABS light flashes in a chaotic manner for like a second immediately after the car has been started, then stays on permanently. It's not a fault code. I actually went to the only person in my vicinity who has ALL the diagnostics and even he couldn't connect to the ABS module and read anything. We tried MUT-2, Chrysler, and all other kinds of diagnostics.

The reason why I bring this up is because, if it really is the ABS module trying to reset like you say, would that imply that the module and ABS ecu itself are fine? Since I was suspecting the ABS ecu for being faulty, considering we can't even connect to it. edit: I'm sort of shooting in the dark here (and I know I always say not to do so), but I'm thinking this may be a way to find out more info about my ABS issue.

Just trying to connect all the dots

 

[Bleakley]

You no longer have factory brakes. To keep this short, StopTech had a lengthy and informative article regarding ABS and modifying braking systems.
For ABS to even function properly there’s relationships that need to be maintained. The brakes you have DRASTICALLY change a pressure to torque relationship.

The ABS is basically useless to you now. So I would recommend hitting a two for one deal by saving some weight on the front end (and probably removing your electrical annoyance) and removing it entirely.

 

[motomattx]

You can pull the abs fuse and see what it does, but you could have a dead abs module if you can't communicate with it.

 

[Kryndon]

You no longer have factory brakes. To keep this short, StopTech had a lengthy and informative article regarding ABS and modifying braking systems.
For ABS to even function properly there’s relationships that need to be maintained. The brakes you have DRASTICALLY change a pressure to torque relationship.

The ABS is basically useless to you now. So I would recommend hitting a two for one deal by saving some weight on the front end (and probably removing your electrical annoyance) and removing it entirely.

I am aware of this however it mostly affects newer, mode modern cars where the ABS system can also sense brake pad thickness and so on. In my case the car came with stock brakes all around and still had the light on. I once had to solder the wires between the rear sensors because it was cut, thinking that would solve my issue, but it didn't.

@motomattx I was betting on the dead ABS ecu. Unfortunately the GS FWD Eclipses around here use a different module so I can't swap it to test. I might try pulling the fuse like you said just to see what would happen, but I'll also charge up my battery and hopefully that ticking will stop.

 

[Bleakley]

If you were in states I’d give you my abs parts if you paid shipping. I removed it at my parents and forgot to throw everything away so dad put it in container.

Not starting an argument, but the ABS bit I spoke about was specific to you and your car. Lol. The ABS will function. But it will no longer function properly with the changes.

If you still want, I can give you my ABS stuff, but idek if I wanna know what shipping would be to wherever you are. Lol.

 

[Kryndon]

Thanks for the offer, but don't worry about it for now. I will leave the abs light for another day. I charged up my battery and the module doesn't make the clicking sound anymore, so I guess Matt was right and it was because of low voltage.

 

[Bleakley]

Ha. Nice. Good deal.