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Resolved 2G Connector/wire identification

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95eclipseSlow

15+ Year Contributor
131
2
Dec 10, 2007
Taylor, Michigan
My car is a 98 gsx 5-speed. My first question is for the following pictures:
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What is this? The white thing with the wires going to it belongs in the black box that is bolted to the chassis. It appears to be a relay, but for what? It is on the chassis side of the harness.

My next question is for the following pictures:
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What is this connector for? The other end of this connector was connected to the engine harness and was located under the driver seat. I already know that it has nothing to do with the power seat. The wires run into the grommet where the rest of the fuel pump wires are.

My last question is for the following pictures:
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These are all of the wires that run into the fuel pump grommet. I am deleting all of the wires I do not need out of my car. What is each wire for and which of them do I need to keep? I need fuel pump power, ground, signal, and the fuel level gauge wire. I do not need any evap or cruise control if any of those wires are related to that stuff.
 
In regards to the connector under the seat, I saw your post that listed pin 1 through pin 6. However, no where in the thread does it state what exactly the left over wires are for. It does say that the green/yellow, blue/white, and black wires from that connector are for the fuel tank differential pressure sensor so we know what those are for. I am assuming that I will not need that? In regards to the connector in the engine bay, if I am understanding correctly, it is the alternator relay?
 
Looks like I had those links a little mixed up/out of order. Apologies for that.

Here's what I see in the '98 FSM; these are the wires coming through the rubber grommet on a FWD 2Gb turbo model

Pin 1 - To pin 1 of left rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, gray with red
Pin 2 - To pin 2 of right rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, yellow with blue
Pin 3 - To pin 1 of right rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, gray with blue
Pin 4 - Fuel gauge unit to gauge cluster, yellow
Pin 5 - EVAP emission ventilation solenoid power, red
Pin 6 - EVAP emission ventilation solenoid to ECU pin 55, blue with red
Pin 7 - To pin 2 of left rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, yellow with red
Pin 8 - To pin 3 of fuel tank differential pressure sensor, green with yellow
Pin 9 - Fuel gauge unit to gauge cluster for low fuel light, yellow with blue
Pin 10 - Fuel gauge unit to ground, black
Pin 11 - Fuel pump ground, black with white on the female end, black on the male end
Pin 12 - Fuel pump power, black with blue
Pin 13 - To pin 2 of fuel tank differential pressure sensor, black
Pin 14 - To pin 1 of fuel tank differential pressure sensor from ECU pin 61, blue with white



These are the wires coming through the rubber grommet on an AWD 2Gb model.

Rear wiring harness and fuel wiring harness combination
Pin 1 - To pin 2 of left rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, yellow with red
Pin 2 - To pin 1 of left rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, gray with red
Pin 3 - To pin 2 of right rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, yellow with blue
Pin 4 - To pin 1 of right rear ABS wheel-speed sensor, gray with blue
Pin 5 - Not found
Pin 6 - To pin 3 of fuel tank differential pressure sensor, green with yellow
Pin 7 - To pin 1 of fuel tank differential pressure sensor, blue with white
Pin 8 - to pin 2 of fuel tank differential pressure sensor, black
Pin 9 - From pin 4 of sub fuel gauge unit to pin 3 of fuel gauge unit, yellow with black
Pin 10 - From low fuel light in gauge cluster to pin 3 of sub fuel gauge unit, yellow with blue
Pin 11 - From pin 1 of sub fuel gauge unit, yellow with black
Pin 12 - To pin 2 of sub fuel gauge unit, yellow

E-59
Pin 1 - Fuel pump and fuel gauge unit, pump ground, black
Pin 2 - Fuel pump and fuel gauge unit pump power, black with blue
Pin 3 - From pin 4 of sub fuel gauge unit, yellow with black
Pin 4 - Not found
Pin 5 - From sub fuel gauge unit pin 1 to fuel gauge unit, yellow with black
Pin 6 - Fuel gauge unit ground, black


Should be able to get away without the fuel tank differential pressure sensor and yes, the relay in the engine bay is the alternator or generator relay.
 
Last edited:
Update: I got everything done and exactly how I wanted it. I went ahead and removed the fuel tank differential pressure sensor which got rid of the green w/yellow, blue w/white, and the black ground. Next I tackled the yellow w/blue, gray w/blue, yellow w/red, and gray w/red. Just to verify as to what these wires were for, I traced them down. The wheel speed sensors on the rear hubs each had a black wire and a blue wire going to them. I followed these up to a connector which contained all four of the wires listed above. I then removed the four wires as well as the wheel speed sensors. So just to be clear, the yellow w/blue, gray w/blue, yellow w/red, and gray w/red were for the rear ABS. After that I was left with the fuel pump/gauge wires. I am going to be running a fuel cell so I figured now would be a good time to figure out how to use the fuel gauge with only one float. To do this I completely got rid of the black connectors in the passenger side fuel pump access hole. I then took the yellow w/blue and solid yellow w/tracer wires from the black connector and twisted them together. Next I took the fuel canister out and put the float arm all the way down to simulate an empty tank. I then tested the voltage on each yellow w/black wire going to the white connector on the fuel canister. Only one of these wires had voltage. I took the wire which showed voltage and I soldered it in with the yellow w/blue and solid yellow. The other yellow w/black wire on the white connector was removed. This allowed me to have a functioning fuel gauge while having the drivers side float completely removed. The last thing I did was I re-routed the fuel pump power, ground, and gauge wires as well as the passenger side door pin wires. Instead of running these wires up the driver side, over the back seat area and into the fuel pump area, I ran them from under the dash, along the passenger side, and into the fuel pump area. I no longer have any wires running across the back seat area. There is not too much wiring left to do now. Thanks a lot for your help!
 
GR = Gray, not GR = green!! Duh! That's why things didn't match up with the manual and you're picture.

I don't think that's the first time I've made that mistake, either. In any case, glad you got it figured out! I've edited my above post to reflect the correct information.
 
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