comp cams.....help please!!!

[empie1]

ok so i bought a bunch of parts to put in my car when i change the timing belt and head gasket in a couple of weeks...i was interested in buying cams that i could just "drop in" with out replacing valves and valve springs...i came accross some comp cams and emailed the seller asking if the stage 1s were in fact just drop ins...he said they were so i bought them...i recieved the cams today and the package says that valve springs and lifters are needed in order to cover the warrenty...so i called comp and they said they will work as these have the lowest duration of lift....
specs:
exhaust:
adv dur.004 250
dur @ .050: 204
valve lift: .391

intake:
adv dur .004 251
dur @ .050: 204
valve lift: .407

will these work with my otherwise stock engine? i have basic mods so far (intake, exhaust) but i really wanted to install the cams too...
if i have to buy valve springs i guess its not that big of a deal....but a mechanic at a local dealership said that i will "blow my engine" if i try to use these with just replacement springs and that it only will work if i get dsm link.....can someone please help as i need to sell these if they arnt goin to work

thanks for any help you can provide
-mike

 

[i'm boosted]

It will only work if you get dsmlink??? Find another mechanic.

As for the springs and lifters, if your car has high mileage I would advise you to get new lifters and springs to prevent valve float. Also, how high to plan to rev the engine to? That will depend on if you need to just get factory replacements or upgraded valve springs. I run a very aggressive cam in my car and I am using the stock valve springs, but that does not mean everyone should do it. I plan on upgrading the valvetrain very soon.

There are a lot of guys and girls on this board that run the comp 100s on stock springs with no issues, but again this depends on the mileage of the engine and where you plan on reving the motor to.

-Brian

 

[Turbo Shogun]

I have HKS 264s and all I did was drop them in. Even with a dead-stock fuel system, the car ran fine (provided, I was easy on the boost). I opted for the matching HKS shotpeened valve springs as well.

 

[BaddAssGst]

I run a set of Comp 200s that were dropped straight in. No springs or degreeing at all. Dropped them in and they idled great. Like said before, find another mechanic.

 

[empie1]

I run a set of Comp 200s that were dropped straight in. No springs or degreeing at all. Dropped them in and they idled great. Like said before, find another mechanic.

i was just under the impression that i needed to install new springs because my engine has 130000 miles on it...i dont want to get any valve float...i bought new lifters (cant stand that ticking!!) but i really dont feel like dropping another 250...for those who have these cams can you feel a difference? i bought an intake, 3 inch catback, mbc, boost gauge, 1g bov and fmic hoping they would all work well with the cams (with out any other head parts)...

thanks for your help

 

[jpbrazill]

i was just under the impression that i needed to install new springs because my engine has 130000 miles on it...i dont want to get any valve float...i bought new lifters (cant stand that ticking!!) but i really dont feel like dropping another 250...for those who have these cams can you feel a difference? i bought an intake, 3 inch catback, mbc, boost gauge, 1g bov and fmic hoping they would all work well with the cams (with out any other head parts)...

thanks for your help

i agree with all, find a new mechanic. As far as your setup, I think you will be fine with stock springs and 100s. Seeing is how you are going to be in the head during this thing, you might think about getting aftermarket or fresh springs. Figure $300 for dual springs and retainers, and about $50 for used springs on ebay. I have a set of fresh springs that meet all specs and requirements if you are interested. They have only been installed on a head, and taken right back out two weeks later. They were never ran.

Other than that, I would say you are good to go!

J.P.

 

[sweet97]

Mild cams, change the springs to fresh stock replacements if you want or run as is. I had the Comp 200's and they were mild also. Nothing to worry about. The stock rev limiter will not allow you to float a valve with that cam and your 138K mile springs. mark

 

[empie1]

hey thanks for the feedbakc everyone! check out this link from over at dsmtalk, this pretty much contradicts the stuff you guys say....

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1387528#post1387528

here, everyone claims you need bigger injectors and fuel pumps as well as dsm link because it makes your car run rich...any thoughts on that?

 

[BaddAssGst]

What they are talking about is that your not following the upgrade path in the right order. Most people don't do cams until they those other mods. I would at least get a logger so you know what is going on with your car or I would skip the cams and spend 430 bucks elsewhere.

 

[RipperXX]

Just dont run more boost than the stock system can supply. In otherwords if all you have done is the FMIC, some intake and exhaust parts, and you want these cams so bad. Throw them on in, but I wouldn't turn your boost up. I would leave it at stock to be safe. And THEN once you get a fuel pump, FPR and injectors THEN yea ####ing crank that boost up.


Honestly I think the $450 (if thats what your spending on the cams) could be put to better use on say a 190lph pump, a larger down pipe and O2 houseing. And depending on how good or cheap of a set of pipes you get there, you may have enough left to buy something else.

 

[44pirate]

I run a set of Comp 200s that were dropped straight in. No springs or degreeing at all. Dropped them in and they idled great. Like said before, find another mechanic.

Same here. Purrrs like a kitten. And keeps on pulling.

 

[SolidBoostTSi]

I run FP2's (200's)with stock springs and it idles just like stock

 

[empie1]

Just dont run more boost than the stock system can supply. In otherwords if all you have done is the FMIC, some intake and exhaust parts, and you want these cams so bad. Throw them on in, but I wouldn't turn your boost up. I would leave it at stock to be safe. And THEN once you get a fuel pump, FPR and injectors THEN yea ####ing crank that boost up.


Honestly I think the $450 (if thats what your spending on the cams) could be put to better use on say a 190lph pump, a larger down pipe and O2 houseing. And depending on how good or cheap of a set of pipes you get there, you may have enough left to buy something else.

i was just set on doing these now because i have to do the timing belt anyway...and i was planning on getting them eventually so i said why not? they only cost me 375 shipped....fuel mods are definatly next for me though...again thanks everyone

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

those warnings are on there mainly to cover the manufacturers asses from people that might try to blame them. put them in and enjoy them.

 

[92tealTSI]

I run a set of Comp 200s that were dropped straight in. No springs or degreeing at all. Dropped them in and they idled great. Like said before, find another mechanic.

Same here, idle silky smooth (with a slight pissed off lump of course ), and dropped em right in, springs and retainers are getting put in with a built head soon though. For comparison, ive revved the 101200's to 8 grand with no problems.