The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G clutch slave/master blowout, need help.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

noxneon

Probationary Member
22
0
Nov 29, 2010
Washougal, Washington
The car is a 92 Eagle Talon TSI, and the drivetrain is a basically stock trans with an English Racing welded center diff, a chromoly flywheel, and an Act 2600 solid hub clutch.

The car wasn't shifting into reverse and 5th was really tight so we adjusted the shift cables according to a Haynes manual. Then we noticed that the clutch pedal wasn't engaging all the way, and discovered that the trans was pushing away from the block because the trans to engine bolts were almost out. So we tightened all the engine to trans and transfer case to trans bolts.

Then we noticed that the clutch STILL wasn't engaging properly, and I remembered that the guy we bought the car from said that the pivot point on the clutch fork needed to be shimmed out. So instead of shimming the pivot point for the clutch fork, I shimmed out the clutch pedal to clutch master cylinder. It worked for a little bit, and then the clutch master AND slave cylinder eventually blew out after maybe 100 miles of driving.

I need to know is there any other way to get the clutch system working on this car without having to pull the trans and shim out the pivot point for the clutch fork?
 
Often the clutch fork is worn where it rides on the pivot ball (or bent) so you could just buy a new fork - but then that is exactly the typical reason the pivot ball is shimmed isn't it. Besides, if a new fork didn't correct the alignment you'd still have to shim the pivot ball anyway - this happened to me even with all factory new parts. I also tryed a new pivot ball but found out they almost never wear - it's the fork that wears. Another possible reason for fork misalignment is if your flywheel thickness has changed (resurface and/or step height change).
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top