1G Clutch not disengaging

[laser4g637989]

Hey,
I was driving and went to shift gears, suddenly the clutch stopped disengaging at all without any signs. I checked the slave and master cylinder for leaks, the both don't appear to be leaking. Any recommendations on where to go on diagnosing the problem?

 

[pauleyman]

If it's not disengaging it almost has to be hydraulics or clutch itself. I popped a spring before. Likely time to drop trans. If you've ruled out hydraulics. Make sure slave is moving. I assume you're aware of 1g clutch pedal problems. I have seen complete failure here where the master gets no movement especially if you have a dumb stuff clutch. One of the reasons I won't run one. Act 2600 killed my pedal assembly.

 

[laser4g637989]

Hey,
Is there a way to test the master and slave cylinder?

 

[97egl]

Hey,
Is there a way to test the master and slave cylinder?

Have someone press the clutch pedal down while you watch the slave cylinder. If the slave is working properly the rod should extend out and stay extended until the clutch pedal is released. When it is released the rod should retract. You should see approximately 1" of movement of the rod. Thats just a ballpark. (I haven't actually measured how much movement there is on a working system)

 

[dwb]

I'm assuming this is a 1g based on your user name.
First of all, if you haven't already, stop driving it until this get's resolved or you will wear out your transmission synchros.
I've had multiple clutches (all ACT) either lose a dampening spring from the disc or pieces of the pressure plate come loose and find themselves under the PP fingers, with sudden loss of clutch disengagement like you described. Sometimes you can hear something tumbling around inside the bellhousing at idle. Short of a hydraulic or clutch pedal issue, the only way to diagnose is to pull the trans.
Here's my clutch slave cylinder movement if you want to use this as a gauge. I just put my phone on a creeper and let it record while I went and worked the clutch pedal.

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[stealthee]

If it's not disengaging it almost has to be hydraulics or clutch itself. I popped a spring before. Likely time to drop trans. If you've ruled out hydraulics. Make sure slave is moving. I assume you're aware of 1g clutch pedal problems. I have seen complete failure here where the master gets no movement especially if you have a dumb stuff clutch. One of the reasons I won't run one. Act 2600 killed my pedal assembly.

Did the same on my OG Stealth years back. Simply downshifted to slow down. Heard a noise and no longer could shift.

Dropped the trans to find a popped spring and the center section of the disc was loose too. Could also be a bent/broken release fork.

Hopefully for the OP's sake it is just a hydraulic issue and can be solved without dropping the trans.

 

[laser4g637989]

I'm assuming this is a 1g based on your user name.
First of all, if you haven't already, stop driving it until this get's resolved or you will wear out your transmission synchros.
I've had multiple clutches (all ACT) either lose a dampening spring from the disc or pieces of the pressure plate come loose and find themselves under the PP fingers, with sudden loss of clutch disengagement like you described. Sometimes you can hear something tumbling around inside the bellhousing at idle. Short of a hydraulic or clutch pedal issue, the only way to diagnose is to pull the trans.
Here's my clutch slave cylinder movement if you want to use this as a gauge. I just put my phone on a creeper and let it record while I went and worked the clutch pedal.

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Thanks everyone for the advise and thanks for the video! Looks like I will be dropping the trans, hydraulics seem to be working as they should

 

[laser4g637989]

I am looking for some clutch recommendations for my 1991 Talon TSi FWD. Any budget friendly clutches out there? End goal for the Talon would be 350-400 street car. Thanks everyone!

 

[pauleyman]

Budget friendly is very vague.
Good. fast. cheap. pick two.
A quality clutch will be 3 to 400$ at a minimum. Cheap out and you will do the job twice.

Most important thing is make sure all your clutch hydraulics/linkage etc are good. Replace anything that isn't including pivot ball and fork. 100% you must machine the flywheel to whatever your clutch manufacturer suggests. If the flywheel is new measure it. Trust only a measurement, not what somebody told you or whats printed on the box. Depth mic doesn't lie.

 

[TuskeeTuner]

I am looking for some clutch recommendations for my 1991 Talon TSi FWD. Any budget friendly clutches out there? End goal for the Talon would be 350-400 street car. Thanks everyone!

I'd recommend an ACT 2100 with a 6-puck disc sprung, grab yourself a braided stainless clutch line to replace the rubber section, and ACT's flywheel. Check to make sure your clutch lever and pedal shaft are in good shape.

 

[MindBlowin03]

ACT 2100 with a solid street disk.

 

[92AWDHX40]

On my old fwd act 2100 no issues

 

[dwb]

I've had too many ACT clutches fail as a daily driver. Both the disc and PP. I switched up to a South Bend Clutch stage 2 daily with an organic disc and an ACT streetlite flywheel. So far it's been a great combo for the street.

 

[curt-s]

That's what I should have gone with. I went with a Fidanza v2 6puck dual friction material due to it being extremely cheap ( RTM). It's either on or off and anything below ~2000rpm chatters.
I don't like it. I miss my old Fidanza 3.2 4puck kevlar.

 

[laser4g637989]

This is a new to me 91 Talon fwd. I installed a new ACT 2600 and new ACT lightweight flywheel after I broke a spring in my clutch disc. I also installed new Competition Clutch fork as well. The last pivot ball was shimmed with three washers which I removed thinking the new clutch would solve the need for shims.

After installing new clutch it won't disengage. It is hard to go in gear if it goes in at all, will grind if you try to put it in gear. It now makes a loud rattling noise and a humming noise occasionally.

Any thoughts?
I am going to pull the tranny out again, but any thoughts on what may be going on?:

 

[stealthee]

Adjust your pedal free play. If you can't get enough adjustment you might be forced to drop the trans again to reshim the fork

 

[laser4g637989]

So I pulled the tranny, out the shims back on the fork. It now shifts worse than it did before, can't get it in gear at all. I have re bled the clutch, no visible leaks. Took a video of the slave, everything looks like it should be working. I have no clue what to do now, any help would be appreciated!

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[chrisman287]

Three washers seems like a lot. Maybe one or two tops.

Have you tried adjusting the master cylinder rod at the pedal? Is the master OEM or aftermarket?

 

[dwb]

So I pulled the tranny, out the shims back on the fork. It now shifts worse than it did before, can't get it in gear at all. I have re bled the clutch, no visible leaks. Took a video of the slave, everything looks like it should be working. I have no clue what to do now, any help would be appreciated!

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You removed the trans but only added pivot ball shims? Did you at least remove and inspect the clutch disc and pp?

 

[pauleyman]

Did you check pedal assembly? The clutch was working?
What did you find when you dropped the clutch?

 

[stealthee]

So I pulled the tranny, out the shims back on the fork. It now shifts worse than it did before, can't get it in gear at all. I have re bled the clutch, no visible leaks. Took a video of the slave, everything looks like it should be working. I have no clue what to do now, any help would be appreciated!

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Did you check the pedal free play at all like I previously mentioned?

 

[laser4g637989]

I removed the pressure plate and retorqued it and aligned the disc. I did adjust the free play as well. I installed a new clutch as it suddenly stopped working. When I removed the old clutch it had broke one of the springs on the disc. Not sure if the slave and master are OEM or replaced as it is a new to me car. I have adjusted the master cylinder rod out pretty far, not sure how much more I could go without it coming out . I have no clue what to do now. I'm thinking of replacing the slave and master, maybe there is a small leak I am not seeing.

 

[pauleyman]

I'm gonna ask again. Did you check the pedal assembly. Are all the trans bolts in place especially the one that goes in from.the backside?

 

[Justin DuBois]

I vote spring. - Can you change gears?

 

[stealthee]

I removed the pressure plate and retorqued it and aligned the disc. I did adjust the free play as well. I installed a new clutch as it suddenly stopped working. When I removed the old clutch it had broke one of the springs on the disc. Not sure if the slave and master are OEM or replaced as it is a new to me car. I have adjusted the master cylinder rod out pretty far, not sure how much more I could go without it coming out . I have no clue what to do now. I'm thinking of replacing the slave and master, maybe there is a small leak I am not seeing.

Adjusting the master cylinder rod is adusting the free play. The fact that you said you adjusted the free play, then said you adjusted the rod as far as possible means your still a little lost.

There is a spec on pedal free play. Just adjusting the rod way out isn't going to get you where you need to be.

I don't know the exact spec for a 1g DSM, but for some other Mitsu's it ranges from 1/2-5/8" or 5/8-3/4".