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2G Clutch Issue

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SpiderGST

10+ Year Contributor
517
2
Sep 13, 2011
Frisco, Texas
Okay so i was driving last night and um something happened. My clutch or slave cylinder is acting weird or just one LOL. I release the clutch pedal and it takes about one second after I release the pedal for the clutch pedal to fully pop out. You can hear it when it fully pops out. It also seems to be slipping just a little when i try to accelerate a little harder than usual. This is the orginal clutch. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
but how long has it been in the car drivetrain it could be difficult to diagnose how long has the clutch been in there, miles approx, tob, clutch?
 
Car has 152k. The clutch is the orginal one like from the factory off the assembley line.
 
This is what pissed me off.

Tomorrow I'm putting in my FP manifold, 68HTA, FMIC, AEM wideband and Tru Boost, DSMLink will be here Mon or Tuesday, FIC 950cc injectors. Why does it always something else go wrong right before your going to do something else.

I might just limp the car for two weeks since I live like 5 blocks from work. I don't have the funds right now for a good clutch and flywheel. So I might just wait the two weeks and do it then. So I don't have to put a cheap ass clutch in now and redo the whole thing in two weeks.
 
Just asking but what the hell is TOB? LOL. Just asking never heard it.
 
Okay gotcha LOL. Never heard anyone abbreviate Throw out Bearing LOL.
 
This is what pissed me off.

Tomorrow I'm putting in my FP manifold, 68HTA, FMIC, AEM wideband and Tru Boost, DSMLink will be here Mon or Tuesday, FIC 950cc injectors. Why does it always something else go wrong right before your going to do something else.

I might just limp the car for two weeks since I live like 5 blocks from work. I don't have the funds right now for a good clutch and flywheel. So I might just wait the two weeks and do it then. So I don't have to put a cheap ass clutch in now and redo the whole thing in two weeks.

The stock clutch wouldn't have held that 68HTA anyway. It's not the cars fault. You need to do supporting mods, (clutch included) before going with a larger turbo.

With your new setup I would skip the 2100 and go with a South Bend TZ/FE or an ACT 2600. I just recently started slipping my ACT 2100 and upgraded to the South Bend because I have heard nothing but good things about them.

As with any clutch job, I would also replace the throwout bearing, clutch fork, and pivot ball with OEM Mitsubishi parts. Do not use any throwout bearing that comes with your clutch kit or from a parts store.

If you decide to upgrade you flywheel too, you can't go wrong with a ACT "streetlite".
 
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The HTA is going in till tomorrow and when it does going to be running very low boost till i get this clutch issue out of the way.
 
Okay so i was driving last night and um something happened. My clutch or slave cylinder is acting weird or just one LOL. I release the clutch pedal and it takes about one second after I release the pedal for the clutch pedal to fully pop out. You can hear it when it fully pops out. It also seems to be slipping just a little when i try to accelerate a little harder than usual. This is the orginal clutch. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Same thing happen to me. YOUR CLUTCH IS OUT! Dead! Dying! Goner! Gave up! Lost! Over the hill LOL
With me was when I came to a stop/ decelerate my pedal would sink down. I found out the master cylinder's plastic tab (mention on rre's website) went bad. I replace the master and after the pedal was fix. I just succumb to clutch slippage. I open my tranny up and my disc, the organic stuff was 95% gone. The metal was about to eat the flywheel!

Talk about good timing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
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