impossible clutch issue

[rtrocket59]

Clutch went to the floor on me randomly this past thursday. Ordered and installed new slave, master and went with a full SS clutch line. Bled the system so much that I went through 2 bottles of brake fluid.
Theres a lot of pressure coming from the master cylinder. The clutch fork seems to be where its supposed to be but it feels like there's a little play between the fork and slave rod.
After bleeding the clutch forever I took it for a test ride and it engaged about an inch off the floor and the master cylinder is on its last thread. Any one have any ideas what my problem could be? I've read the forums for hours and can't find an answer.

 

[yhype]

I would un-adjust the master cylinder all the way and re-bleed the system by opening the bleeder on the slave and manually push in the slave cylinder piston all the way, close bleeder and slowly release slave cylinder piston...Might have to do that a couple times...I have had to do that on other types of vehicles when nothing else worked when it should have...Good luck.

 

[rtrocket59]

I would un-adjust the master cylinder all the way and re-bleed the system by opening the bleeder on the slave and manually push in the slave cylinder piston all the way, close bleeder and slowly release slave cylinder piston...Might have to do that a couple times...I have had to do that on other types of vehicles when nothing else worked when it should have...Good luck.

Ahhh valid point, I did not bleed the slave cylinder. Hopefully that will do it!

By un adjust do you mean to screw the master cylinder rod out(clockwise) or in(counterclockwise)

 

[longislandDSM]

Ahhh valid point, I did not bleed the slave cylinder. Hopefully that will do it!

By un adjust do you mean to screw the master cylinder rod out(clockwise) or in(counterclockwise)

I've done this before. This should help.

14) Make sure the reservoir is topped off.
15) Now, you're about to properly bleed the slave cylinder.
16) Place a pan or equal under the slave cylinder bleed screw, and completely remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder body.
13) Your helper should have the bleed screw and a wrench ready to tighten the bleed screw into the slave cylinder.
Please remember to protect your eyes and those of your buddy's.
14) With the bleed screw removed, firmly press and hold the slave cylinder push rod into the body of the slave cylinder. Yes you read it right, push the rod into the slave cylinder and hold it.
15) Be careful, as soon as you push that rod back into the slave cylinder, it will and without remorse squirt brake fluid onto anything within reach.
16) Have your buddy reinstall the bleed screw and tighten it with the flare nut wrench all the while you're still holding the push rod in.
17) Once the bleed screw is tight, release the rod and as it comes out, guide it into the proper position on the clutch arm.
18) Work your clutch pedal a couple of times, and notice that your reservoir is filled right up to the Max Fill Line.
19) Install reservoir lid, lower the car, and give a test drive....

 

[rtrocket59]

Thanks guys, all I had to do was bleed the slave and adjust the pedal height! And the SS line makes a huge difference. If anyone reading this is considering getting one, do it!

 

[longislandDSM]

Thanks guys, all I had to do was bleed the slave and adjust the pedal height! And the SS line makes a huge difference. If anyone reading this is considering getting one, do it!

glad everything worked out

 

[92 GSR-4]

Did you bleed the slave according to the post by longislandDSM?

 

[rtrocket59]

Did you bleed the slave according to the post by longislandDSM?

Yes i did.

After letting the car cool down for about 3-4 hours I go to take it out again and the clutch is soft again and Im having shifting/ engagement issues, re bled and now its fine. Is it just going to loose pressure again in another few hours? and what could be the cause of this?

 

[MY1GDSM]

You have a leak?

 

[rtrocket59]

You have a leak?

Brand new SS clutch line, no noticeable leaks. Now the clutch is caught in the friction zone even at idle

Im also NOT losing fluid in the reservoir.

could it just be an air bubble in the system? I'm just going to pick up the biggest thing of DOT 3/4 I can find at autozone tomorrow and freakin empty the whole thing through my hydrolic system and hopefully that will work. I'll also grab my bleeder buddy a six pack so he wont mind pushing the clutch in all day

 

[rtrocket59]

Still some how getting air in after the third day of bleeding. I ordered another SS clutch line from extreme psi so hopefully that will do it.

 

[bryanwheat]

If you aren't leaking than you aren't pulling air in thru that line. The line isn't the problem.

 

[rtrocket59]

If you aren't leaking than you aren't pulling air in thru that line. The line isn't the problem.

Well everytime i go to bleed it again there is air in the line but no loss of fluid. What else could be causing it? Everything with the hyrdrolic system is new.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Start looking as We can't tell you... . our guess is going to be as good as yours.

Start inspecting from one end to the other checking for loose connections and signs of leakage...

 

[rtrocket59]

So I replaced the male adapter that goes into the master and put some plumming thread seal on it. I also replaced the slave banjo bolt. After about four hours the clutch still has enough pressure to get into gear with out grinding.

But engagement is still about an inch off the floor. My master cylinder rod has been adjusted all the way clockwise. Will turning it counter clockwise bring the engagement up a little?

a little more background to help diagnose this..... The ACT2600 was put in a little less than a year ago and the mechanic said the flywheel may not have been able to be resurfaced. Well he brought it to a machine shop and they were able to get the job done but its causing me to think now that they probably didn't step it to the .610-.613 that these aftermarket clutches need. Could this be another solution?

 

[hypergenesis]

So I replaced the male adapter that goes into the master and put some plumming thread seal on it. I also replaced the slave banjo bolt. After about four hours the clutch still has enough pressure to get into gear with out grinding.

But engagement is still about an inch off the floor. My master cylinder rod has been adjusted all the way clockwise. Will turning it counter clockwise bring the engagement up a little?

a little more background to help diagnose this..... The ACT2600 was put in a little less than a year ago and the mechanic said the flywheel may not have been able to be resurfaced. Well he brought it to a machine shop and they were able to get the job done but its causing me to think now that they probably didn't step it to the .610-.613 that these aftermarket clutches need. Could this be another solution?

Well your flywheel not being able to engage wouldn't cause air to get into your system. Are u sure there aren't problems with the master or slave?

 

[rtrocket59]

Well your flywheel not being able to engage wouldn't cause air to get into your system. Are u sure there aren't problems with the master or slave?

There shouldn't be, they're brand spankin new. Clutch pretty much feels the same as if I never replaced the master, slave or line except now I can get it into gear. But who knows if I'll be able to do it tomorrow. I tried two person bleeding, speed bleeder valves, and mightyvac, neither of which have gave me any luck. The first time I did the two person bleed the clutch ran flawlessly for the test ride and a few hours later it was back to the drawing board.

 

[reddragon1]

Try adjusting the rod on the master cylinder. Also did you bench bleed the master?

 

[Dert]

Did you replace it with OEM? If not that could very well be your problems. I had ongoing issue with mine, tried adjusting everything, bled and re bled, still issues. I bought an OEM master, put it in and no issues at all and didn't have to adjust anything.

 

[rtrocket59]

Did you replace it with OEM? If not that could very well be your problems. I had ongoing issue with mine, tried adjusting everything, bled and re bled, still issues. I bought an OEM master, put it in and no issues at all and didn't have to adjust anything.

I went with exedy which is supposed to be exact "OEM" manufacture

The new line holds pressure pretty good. If im in traffic though it starts to get a little soft and grinds gears but ill have to do is pump the pedal a few times and its good to go. Is this normal?

 

[dsm92gsx]

I went with exedy which is supposed to be exact "OEM" manufacture

The new line holds pressure pretty good. If im in traffic though it starts to get a little soft and grinds gears but ill have to do is pump the pedal a few times and its good to go. Is this normal?

when I did my clutch I pumped my clutch pedal no kidding about 100 times all in one sitting to get all the fluid and everything moving. I would bleed one more time, literally pump the pedal 100 times and take it for a test drive.

 

[duy35]

i gravity bled mine and had no problem with it. Maybe you can give that a try

 

[rtrocket59]

Clutch feels great now after 50 miles of driving. Thanks for the help!

 

[Dert]

I too bought the exedy master, turns out its a shorter throw compared to stock
and car would move after barely lifting pedal off the floor, was also really hard to shift gears. I bought an actual OEM and have not had an issue since.

 

[bryanwheat]

I too bought the exedy master, turns out its a shorter throw compared to stock
and car would move after barely lifting pedal off the floor, was also really hard to shift gears. I bought an actual OEM and have not had an issue since.

This is the same problem that i've found with a few different aftermarket master cylinders. The piston inside is shorter and doesn't push the same volume of fluid is one stroke as the oem.