Clutch Help

[stephenson]

Ok so i change my clutch the other day. put everything back together and bleed it.
now i cant get it into gear unless i force it. And if i have it in first gear and i let out the clutch the wheels still spins (cars on jacks)

also replaced the clutch slave and master

can someone give me some ideas on whats going on?

 

[2G-GS-T]

Yall dont think it could be the fly wheel, Did you get it Resurfaced?

 

[TSi Kid]

The flywheel has been metioned several times before, it is a possibility that it wasn't stepped correctly.

 

[2G-GS-T]

Yea, because replaced my gf clutch in her k20 and it need to be resurfaced

 

[TSi Kid]

Try adjusting the clutch properly and let us know if that helps

Yea, because replaced my gf clutch in her k20 and it need to be resurfaced

No sh*t really?

 

[2G-GS-T]

yup, it looked like there were welds on there from the clutch. It smelled nasty too. Before i replaced it, i could move it when it was in gear, thats how bad it was

 

[ChiTownHussla]

weld the pedal assembly while the car is on stands also.;....will save you headaches for later as well. TRUST ME

 

[TSi Kid]

yup, it looked like there were welds on there from the clutch. It smelled nasty too. Before i replaced it, i could move it when it was in gear, thats how bad it was

weld the pedal assembly while the car is on stands also.;....will save you headaches for later as well. TRUST ME

The way you test if the pedal assembly is bad is by pressing down the clutch pedal with your foot and then taking your foot off the pedal. Then see if you can pull your pedal back any further. If not, then your pedal is fine. It is a PITA to pull that assembly.

 

[stephenson]

where do i put the washers and how big of washers

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

Strange how I make a post that answers every single question that has been asked in this thread, yet people are still posting redundant answers and the OP is asking more questions. (Reminding me of why I haven't been around these forums in a long while). Here let me try this again. OP, watch the video in it's entirety and read all the provided links. Once you've done that (and I mean *read*, not skim), come back here if you have further questions that are not answered in the links and/or you do not understand the very straight forward FAQs. As for your question about where to put the washer, it goes behind the clutch fork pivot ball. Here is an archive of an old Taboo Speed Shop article that goes into detail on this issue and it even includes pictures. Here is the original information again:

This is a VERY common problem and there are several things that can cause it. Do some searching as there are dozens of threads addressing this very issue. Is the new clutch an aftermarket one with a heavier pressure plate? Did you check the clutch fork and pivot ball to see that they are not worn/broken/bent while doing the install? Was the flywheel step height measured to be sure it's in the proper range? Are you sure you're adjusting the master cylinder rod the correct direction (if you thread it into the pedal clevis instead of out, the problem will get worse). What process did you use to bleed the hydraulic lines? ...(there's several wrong ways to do it).

Here's some helpful links that will get you on the right path:

First, WATCH THIS VIDEO:

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

Next, read up on these FAQs regarding clutch issues, they answer the "how to" on all the answers everyone is giving you such as checking for a worn clutch pedal:
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info
How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
Clutch Pedeal Adjustment - Team Rip Engineering

If you watch that video and carefully read all the above articles you should have no more questions about pedal disengagement. Hope this helps!

BTW, if you find out your clutch pedal is worn (which I'm pretty sure it will be since 90% of all 1g DSMs suffer from this by now) then I HIGHLY recommend sending it to Shep Trans for a built/welded pedal assembly with brass bushings. 5th product up from the bottom on this page:
DSM AWD Driveline Products

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Ok so i change my clutch the other day. put everything back together and bleed it.
now i cant get it into gear unless i force it. And if i have it in first gear and i let out the clutch the wheels still spins (cars on jacks)

also replaced the clutch slave and master

can someone give me some ideas on whats going on?

I skipped most of the post to jump on my own experience.
I guess when you have the car up in jack stands it's easy to go into gear. But once the car is down you can't get into gear at all, right?
That's because your clutch isn't disengaging. You need someone to push in the clutch with the wheels slightly down to the ground. And when the driver presses the clutch another person helps push in the slave to see if you can be able to shift gears. If you can then your slave still has air in there.
What you do is take off the slave and loosen the nut BUT still connected to the line . With the clutch reservoir open have someone poor fluid as needed. Keep pushing the slave in and out in and out. Yes you will draw some air in but you can flush it later. After that let it gravity bleed about 3 cups worth and then bleed the system.
If that don't work then likely your master isn't pushing enough fluid to the point where it works to push your slave to push the fork. Assuming if all 1g and 2g have the same theory.
PM me if you need more examples of process and elimination.

 

[lenhof13]

I don't believe it is shimmed and i got a new clutch disk and pressure plate, got the flywheel tuned from the same guy that my buddy got his done from and i made sure it was clean. How could i figure out if i have a dead pedal assembly. ?

At 2:35 listen to what he says
YouTube - Pivot Ball Shimming

 

[stephenson]

ok i watched the video and and read the articles. m going to shim the pivot ball and order a peddle assembly from shep today, because even if my pedal assembly isn't shot if i get it done now i wont have to do it later.

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

Now that's good thinking. There's articles here and elsewhere on the internet to guide you through pedal removal. I recommend picking up a 2nd pedal assembly to send to shep while yours is in your car b/c I don't think he has cores lying around these days.

As for shimming the fork/ball, did you check the position of the fork in the inspection window like it says to at the RoadRaceEnginnering page?

 

[stephenson]

yes it looked like it was a little to the right from center. just got transmission bolts then it out

ok so the transmissions out. I went to lorco to get some grease and some redline mt-90 not cheap "149.56" for 5 litres