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Clutch fork and pivot ball replacement

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Cruz67

10+ Year Contributor
72
0
Dec 17, 2010
Albuquerque, New Mexico
I have the trans out of my car right now and want to make sure I do this right thd first time. How could you visually tell when to replace the clutch fork and pivot ball. I was having engagement issues before my clutch went. Also could some one share a link on how to properly bleed the clutch please.

My clutch would feel fine untill about 3/4 of the way down and then would start disengaging and feel extremely hard. Also my motor mount broke on the driver side and thw engine was leaning down on the driverside I drove it liks the twice for emergencies and when the engine was leanimg like this it worked like it was supposed to. Do you think I should just rebuild my slave and master cylinder and call it a day? Or is there more that needs to be done?
 
Just to clarify you pump ths clutch then release the bleeder valve then keep pumping and close it
 
hey i grew up in alb. but no you are wrong. what u want to do is pump the pedal 4 times or more then while holding the peddle down, u open the bleed screw and when it stops spewing fluid close it, pump a few more times again slowly and repeat till there is no air in the lines coming out.
 
Ok thank you! Yeah man come visit some time balloon fiesta is right around the corner
 
It's hard to tell when to replace it. To much HYPE OF CHANGE it when you do your clutch. My car had 109k miles when I changed everything clutch related and when the new pivot ball and fork came from STM. My stock one didn't even change or looked any different. But again some people drive differently from me.

-One way to tell is with the tranny on the ground.
-Place the pivot ball, fork and throw out bearing in place. Use your right hand to play as the slave.
-Now with your finger push the fork and watch the tob move on your input shaft. (your input shaft should have that smooth part where the tob sits and then the teeth part where it goes into your pressure plate and flywheel)
-If it reaches within two inches ( i think, it's been a while) FROM the teeth where it WOULD go into the pressure plate/flywheel. Your pivot and fork are still good!
The two inches I meant are IF THE pressure plate and flywheel where in place it would cover the teeth of the input shaft, so as long as the fork and pivot ball could reach that point, your fine!
That's how I tested mineLOL Confusing, I know!
 
Ok mounted my trans these last couple days and I noticed when I went to check it the when I used my finger to act as a slave it just barely contacted the pressure plate and then hit the bell housing. This means I need a new one right?

Also when the trans was out I could pull the clutch fork in amd out from where the ball was like it had alot of play. Not asif I was trying to pivot the fork on the ball but I could move it in in out from the ball without it actuallu coming off the ball. Is this normal. I hope this makes sense
 
Ok mounted my trans these last couple days and I noticed when I went to check it the when I used my finger to act as a slave it just barely contacted the pressure plate and then hit the bell housing. This means I need a new one right?

Also when the trans was out I could pull the clutch fork in amd out from where the ball was like it had alot of play. Not asif I was trying to pivot the fork on the ball but I could move it in in out from the ball without it actuallu coming off the ball. Is this normal. I hope this makes sense

Wow! Confusing LOL.

Your second paragraph seems normal. The fork should snap into the ball. If it doesn't either one is worn.
You might need to reword your first paragraph. Im confused LOL

But if your very skeptical just replace them for safe measure. After all, no worries are priceless.
 
When I push the fork from where the slave is supposed to it contacts the bell housing and the tob just barely touches the pressure plate. It does not have enough room to.put pressure against the pressure plate.

It snaps into the ball but has alot of play . You could move it around.
 
When I push the fork from where the slave is supposed to it contacts the bell housing and the tob just barely touches the pressure plate. It does not have enough room to.put pressure against the pressure plate.

It snaps into the ball but has alot of play . You could move it around.

I have to be under the car but when the slave moves about .5- 1 inch that is enough to push the tob into the pp.

If the fork snaps in and don't fall off it's okay. If I think that's what your implying.

Edit:
Shoo I know what your trying to say now. So when you put the fork on the ball it doesn't snap TIGHT onto the BALL. Instead you can move it horizontal to the ball. If I remember correctly that's not normal. I remember my ball to fork was tight. You could move it like a millimeter or 2 but that's it.

Here you go, hope this helps. if you haven't sub to this guy. You should. Almost all dsmers do!
2:31. See how he snaps the fork off the ball. Is yours like that?

-Now with your finger push the fork and watch the tob move on your input shaft. (your input shaft should have that smooth part where the tob sits and then the teeth part where it goes into your pressure plate and flywheel)
-If it reaches within two inches ( i think, it's been a while) FROM the teeth where it WOULD go into the pressure plate/flywheel. Your pivot and fork are still good!
The two inches I meant are IF THE pressure plate and flywheel where in place it would cover the teeth of the input shaft, so as long as the fork and pivot ball could reach that point, your fine!
3:29. This is what I meant when I said this!
Putting fork on 5:39
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_mNqViDt94
 
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