Worn Clutch Fork?

[er82]

So, I have welded the clutch pedal, installed centric clutch master, bled the lines with mityvac. Supposedly it has a new clutch ACT 2100. I haven't checked.

The clutch pedal doesn't go all the way to the bottom. At about 3/4 way down it seems to bind somewhere. Is this the common clutch fork issue when it's worn?

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[pauleyman]

Your fork sits too much to the pasenger side. You need to find out why. No that is not a sign of a worn fork.

 

[93AWDDSM]

I just went through this. My clutch fork sat like yours and I was having binding issues and it wouldn't disengage even with the master thread all the way out. Could be your flywheel out of spec or some issue with your clutch disc/pressure plate. What type of TOB?

 

[er82]

Well it looks like there is too much freeplay on the fulcrum. Also it looks like the retaining tab is bent. Not sure what causes it. But I think a new fork and fulcrum are needed.

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[pauleyman]

Well it looks like there is too much freeplay on the fulcrum. Also it looks like the retaining tab is bent. Not sure what causes it. But I think a new fork and fulcrum are needed.

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Yes thats still a ptoblem but as I stated before that is not why your fork sits where its sits. Wear alone wont get it that far out. You likely have a problem with the clutch itself or more commonly the wrong flywheel step height. Get a depth mic, NOT a caliper, and measure the flywheel and get back to us.

 

[pauleyman]

Just watched your video again. Are you using an extended slave rod?

 

[donniekak]

Sounds like the clutch is actually over-disengaging. You are pressing the clutch fingers into the disk.

Use a non extended slave rod, and re-adjust the master rod.

 

[er82]

The slave rod is 85mm or about 3.34". Doesn't look like its extended.

I'm checking the flywheel step height. The flyheel is aluminum one not sure on the brand and the clutch looks like comptetition clutch stage 2 i think. But all new.

 

[93AWDDSM]

My fork had exact wear like yours on the ball and retaining clip. My fork sat like yours before I dropped the tranny and I had massive disengagement issues. I used 1 turbo bolt washer and shimmed the pivot ball (don’t bash me on “that isn’t correct” I know this). So far so good and it corrected my fork position to slightly to driver side (was towards passenger before). I know in time I’ll have to replace them both which I’m ok with but if you’re in a pinch and need to go now, like I was, I would shim.

If you can wait, do it correctly with new fork, pivot ball, oem TOB and make sure the flywheel has the correct step height.

 

[19gsx91]

Shimming the pivot ball is extremely common on our vehicles.

Remove the slave cylinder, take a picture of where your clutch fork rests in it's neutral state, without the slave putting pressure on it.

 

[AndrewG]

Jafro has a good video on this. It even includes parts numbers.

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[er82]

I'm getting about .610-.611 flywheel step height. As I understand it's within spec. I tested my rigged tool on a used flywheel which looks to be resurfaced and it was .615.

 

[pauleyman]

You need to figure out if that is an extended rod. If you're not sure how the hydraulics work right now is the time to find out while you have it all apart. All of this Info is critical to proper disengagement.

 

[er82]

So, with a new competition clutch fork and oem release bearing, the pedal reaches the floor and seems to be good now.

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[turboAWDfanatic]

Glad you solved it! I'd recommend keeping an eye on that clutch fork. I ran the Competition Clutch fork for a while and the fingers wore out prematurely down to where the "Jesus clip" holes are. I only noticed it because I dropped the trans for something and saw the abnormal wear. I properly applied grease when installing and I did not have my clutch pedal mis-adjusted, so the fork was not being pressed against the TOB when the pedal was disengaged.

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