new clutch fork

[psychoticj]

I just installed a new clutch and flyheel along with new competition clutch fork. Once I got the transaxle bolted back in i noticed the fork is sitting towards the passangers side of the car. I was wander if anyone has had this happen to them and if it needs to be shimmed. There was a plastic washer on the pivot ball I removed. Was that supposed to stay on? Thanks I will be taking the trans back out this weekend to put a washer on.

Updated original thread with a picture. I just wandering if this is common to have to shim a brand new clutch fork and fulcrum or if i should be looking at something else causing the geometery to be off before I compound the problem with shiminng it. I used an oem bearing and south bend ofe clutch. Thanks.

 

[psychoticj]

any help or ideas?

 

[deviousgst]

have you tried adjusting the clutch pedel.

 

[psychoticj]

no I have not tried that but as it sits the line is not hooked up yet so I would suspect that to be the issue

 

[NHerron]

You are correct, (cj?). That plastic washer was a shim for the fork. See how far out your slave cylinder rod is now? Since the rod is already extended out so far, this can cause the pressure plate to not disengage completely among other possibilities like, fork + bellhousig contact = broken stuff

Here's a good tid bit of info about it
TRE TECH TIPS

(Very bottom of page)
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

 

[psychoticj]

OK so I messed up removing the plastic washer from the CC fulcrum. Anyone know the thickness it was as I threw it away. Hopefully this will help anyone installing one of these to not remove it. The rre page says not to shim a new one but I assume that would be for the stock replacement fork and fulcrum. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[NHerron]

New fork, fulcrum, pressure plate huh? Hmm yes, new it shouldn't need to be shimmed like you said. How many times has the flywheel been resurfaced? 100% brand new OEM, right?

 

[psychoticj]

New rre flywheel as well. New OEM throw out also

 

[NHerron]

Through my past research, the ball shouldn't be needed to be shimmed with all brand new parts. No more ideas here but just for reference, possible causes for your ordeal is:

-Bent fork
-Worn socket in fork
-Worn ball
-Some pressure plates can have sloppy geometry even new and in one way or another, this makes the PP fingers further away from the trans but, I don't know about your brand.
-Fatigued fingers
-Flywheel has been resurfaced enough to cause a problem. RRE is pretty serious about correct step and service limits so I kinda doubt this, but I would call and ask what they think.
-Missing TOB ...just kidding...

 

[pauleyman]

that isn't an extended slave rod is it?

 

[psychoticj]

Ok well ill take some more pictures Saturday while I got the trains out. I'm just going to shim it up if everything looks fine

 

[YanDsm]

I've install mine yesterday and I shim the pivot ball with one washer. New Competition clutch fork, brand new fidanza flywheel, new xtd 6 puck sprung disk and slightly used act 2100 pressure plate. Just shim yours and that's it!

 

[twicks69]

I have most of my customers running them without any sort of shim. I will need to talk to Dan at Competition Clutch to see what the deal is with the nylon washer on the pivot ball. Dimensionally, it is identical to an OEM pivot ball, so there should be no reason whatsoever for the nylon shim.

 

[psychoticj]

Yea I tried finding info on that nylon washer before I took it off but couldn't find anything. I guess I should of emailed competition to inquire about it but hindsight is 20/20 right. Lol o well now just need to get it back to running conditon. Thanks for all the input guys.

 

[pauleyman]

That looks to be an extended rod. Is that fork position artificial because the slave is bottomed out?

 

[psychoticj]

I can push the slave in all the till the fork almost touches the other side.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok that isn't it then. The geometry problem lies inside the bellhousing.

 

[psychoticj]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

this looks like in there.

 

[pauleyman]

Take the clutch off and measure the flywheel step.

 

[psychoticj]

I did that be for I put it on it was .6078. I measured it on a tesa micro height at work

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[NHerron]

Hmm according to RRE, a good 'step' for performance clutches is .608"-.610"

With your measurement (.6078), would cause the fingers to be in further toward flywheel. But .0002...from being in 'performance spec'? I don't know if that would cause this

Only thing now would be the ball. I don't know how probable it would be, but could the casting be a little off so it brings fulcrum pivot ball more toward the trans?

 

[psychoticj]

I shimmed it now and installed a new slave too it looks a lot better. I can put it in first and rev it out with the clutch in and it doesn't move. So I don't think it dragging at all I hope I don't have to drop the tyranny again that is bit of work with just hand tools. Ill take a picture when I get a chance.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[NHerron]

Yup that would be cool to get an update to make sure everything worked out!

 

[psychoticj]

Kinda hard to see with the boot in there

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[NHerron]

No idea why yet, but the boot on mine is that same way...

Glad to see you only had to pull the trans once