new clutch fork

[psychoticj]

I just installed a new clutch and flyheel along with new competition clutch fork. Once I got the transaxle bolted back in i noticed the fork is sitting towards the passangers side of the car. I was wander if anyone has had this happen to them and if it needs to be shimmed. There was a plastic washer on the pivot ball I removed. Was that supposed to stay on? Thanks I will be taking the trans back out this weekend to put a washer on.

Updated original thread with a picture. I just wandering if this is common to have to shim a brand new clutch fork and fulcrum or if i should be looking at something else causing the geometery to be off before I compound the problem with shiminng it. I used an oem bearing and south bend ofe clutch. Thanks.

 

[psychoticj]

Ya me too and that's weird on the boot I thought I ripped it or something because I didn't pay any attention to it before I pulled it all apart.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ya me too and that's weird on the boot I thought I ripped it or something because I didn't pay any attention to it before I pulled it all apart.

its becasue that creased part needs to be on the slave cylinder side, mine did it too until i switched it. i am doing the same stuff here same parts, i notice the fork touches the bell housing when i push it far, and there seems to be some play in the ball and seat of the fork itself, is that normal? im going to put my shim back on as well just as a precaution, i dont wanna have to drop this thing again.

Edit: i had my clip on the handle side of the fork, not the y side, i switched it to the wide side, and things actually seem better, thats where the clip is supposed to go correct?

 

[NHerron]

Hey Kyle are you talking about this?

Thanks for the tip on the boot, too bad I don't think I can flip it around on the car though

 

[Archer Fabrications]

yeah, i just saw that on a dsmtalk thread, but actually if the clip is on top it will be loose, if its on the fork handle side, it is more secure and stays firm against the TOB. so the person that has the pic of their clutch fork up there, actually has their clip upside down.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Here is what i am talking about jus took these pix and switched the clip for edicational purposes. Notice how when facing down the clip sits flush

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And here below its obviously just wrong, it wont line up when its actually installed around the shaft unless its line the above pictures with the clip facing down

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i still think im going to shim that ball... just for the sake of safety even though its a new fork and ball, i know my flywheel has been resurfaced once cause i got it with 1000 miles on it.

 

[NHerron]

Hmm interesting, I'll look into the orientation never even occured to me

As to the shimming, for reference, I have no shimming done on my setup and the fork ends up at a very nice angle towards the slave cylinder. The OEM flywheel has been resurfaced at least once (with correct step), both the ACT 2600 PP and disc is very used at least 5K miles. New OEM TOB. And at least 5K miles on fork & ball

I guess the geometry is just luck sometimes ha

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Hmm interesting, I'll look into the orientation never even occured to me

As to the shimming, for reference, I have no shimming done on my setup and the fork ends up at a very nice angle towards the slave cylinder. The OEM flywheel has been resurfaced at least once (with correct step), both the ACT 2600 PP and disc is very used at least 5K miles. New OEM TOB. And at least 5K miles on fork & ball

I guess the geometry is just luck sometimes ha

well heres the deal, i dont know how far the slave push rod goes. so if i push my finger where the slave pushes it in but i push it as far as i can, the pivot ball will almost pop out, thats why i was wondering about the shim, it also the end touches the bell housing when i push it all the way in is that normal too? sorry to thread jack i think this is good information for others doing the same thing though. i probably dont NEED it because well the shim that was there was for the origional fork, and it was quite worn in where the ball was as well as where the slave rod was, the competition one is shallow and good to go but i was worried about the slave pushing in so far it popped off the pivot ball. i greased everything, but i havent had a chance to bolt up the trans yet.

 

[NHerron]

There's no way to tell by those tests...when trans is bolted up, the fork end should be off center about 1/4" towards the slave. IIRC the slave cylinder rod only moves about 1/2" with clutch pedal depressed so you shouldn't have any problems popping off like that or bellhousing coming in contact... did I understand you correct? There is more info in some links at the beginning of this thread

 

[Archer Fabrications]

i got the trans bolted back up, ill let you know how everything looks when i attach the slave back up.

 

[NHerron]

Right on sounds good that outta look real nice bolted up all shiny

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Some pieces chipped off but its not anywhere noticable oh well. It still looks good, solid shifter
Bushings soon to come

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Hey Kyle are you talking about this?

Thanks for the tip on the boot, too bad I don't think I can flip it around on the car though

Yea sir you can very easily turn it 180 degrees with the slave and fork in there you basically just twist and make sure the rubber flange is correctly mated

 

[NHerron]

Well in that case... I'll do it tomorrow when I do the oil change and coolant flush thanks!

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well in that case... I'll do it tomorrow when I do the oil change and coolant flush thanks!

let me know how it geos, ill take pix of my trans install after i get back to it, we were doing the work at a buddys house, he has all the right tools

 

[NHerron]

Will do... hopefully I don't find any leaks when I'm down there anywhere, its a new build as well

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ahhh very nice yeah ive got 4k on my build right now, i have a leak somewhere by my ofh, i think its the pressure relief bolt or the sender , you ever been to heron montana? I went to boarding school there

 

[NHerron]

I've been battling my turbo return leaking and it's pissing my off I've already tapped the pan bolts the next size up because the old ones were stripped but still, whenever I peek under there I always see a droplet hanging there

Did my screen name throw you off? Ha no I haven't been to Heron, MT looks like one sad place to be though, I saw it on the map there's nothing big around for 80 miles right? Boading school? Well... I went to Job Corps in Montana for a bit probably about as lame except the job training part...

Anyway, I got that boot flipped around and oh is my ADD at rest now! Even though I never see it, it still looks good being the right way round. Thanks K

For the longest time my original oil cap was puking oil and causing pools to form inside the valve cover and that just wasn't cool. So I opted for a new awesome looking oil cap that I got off eBay. Seals great no more leaking and looks bad-to-the-ass. This design also secures the nut on the back with a punch so it can't come loose. I just about freaked when I saw the nut on the old one was super loose about to fall off inside the brand new engine...

 

[WES_393]

^ Is your oil return line made of rubber hose? Or is it just the stock metal tube? Also, where did you get that oil cap? I like

 

[NHerron]

Oh it's a horrible setup on the return line. Rubber hose with worm clamps and the fitting on the pan is this solid chunk of metal that is a PITA.

The turbo is a 16G, any good suggestions?

Oh and here is the link for the cap. The stock pictures don't do it justice, I think I might do a review on the cap since I have such good pictures
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53db207ff2&vxp=mtr

 

[WES_393]

If it's rubber hose from your typical parts store, it will sweat oil like crazy. If you switch to true Silicone hose it won't leak a drop of oil. Many trucking supply companies will carry it. Here is my return setup on my 16g.

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[NHerron]

Cool good idea because this crap looks like heater core hose and it's slighty kinked like that one thread yesterday "oil lines restricted [pic]"

Hey Wes I think we have almost a mirror setup, is that the Megan 02 housing on your 16G? All I'm missing is a good turbo return...

I'm going to PM ya real quick

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I've been battling my turbo return leaking and it's pissing my off I've already tapped the pan bolts the next size up because the old ones were stripped but still, whenever I peek under there I always see a droplet hanging there

Did my screen name throw you off? Ha no I haven't been to Heron, MT looks like one sad place to be though, I saw it on the map there's nothing big around for 80 miles right? Boading school? Well... I went to Job Corps in Montana for a bit probably about as lame except the job training part...

Anyway, I got that boot flipped around and oh is my ADD at rest now! Even though I never see it, it still looks good being the right way round. Thanks K

For the longest time my original oil cap was puking oil and causing pools to form inside the valve cover and that just wasn't cool. So I opted for a new awesome looking oil cap that I got off eBay. Seals great no more leaking and looks bad-to-the-ass. This design also secures the nut on the back with a punch so it can't come loose. I just about freaked when I saw the nut on the old one was super loose about to fall off inside the brand new engine...

Glad the boot worked out! Yeah i guess your name threw me off a bit haha boarding school sucked, i had the same issue with my oil pan an just decided to replace it, and wes, its an fp drain tube i gots one also made of sylicone rubber