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Clutch finally took a dump

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greenDSMdude

10+ Year Contributor
255
0
Sep 20, 2009
Binghamton, New York
after 150k the clutch finally decided to take a shi* right in the middle of winter :notgood: i was wondering where i can get a cheap replacement? maybe a a stage one or an OEM clutch? im a highschooler with a part time job so i dont got too too much to spend. dont want a piece of crap though.
 
Mine just went out yesterday too, at 147k. Im replacing it with an ACT 2100. What are your plans for the car? Do you just need a clutch to get you by, or do you need something that will hold a little bit of power down the road?
 
Amazon.com: EXEDY 05048 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit: Automotive

I bought my exedy OEM replacement clutch kit from amazon.com 3 weeks ago for 88 bucks....your is different but still 104 dollars for a brand name clutch kit? pretty damn good I think. just make sure not to use their throwout bearing and get an OEM one from a dealer or a respectable site. If you still want to buy an ACT clutch I heard their TOB's work with our trannies pretty well.
 
Mine just went out yesterday too, at 147k. Im replacing it with an ACT 2100. What are your plans for the car? Do you just need a clutch to get you by, or do you need something that will hold a little bit of power down the road?

for right now just to get me by im planning on a big rebuild this spring/summer. but i just need something to get me by for now and hold up till summer it will get replaced anyway as of right now this is pretty much all i found. cause seeing there is 150k on it i should do pressure plate clutch and flywheel.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-9...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
crap sorry just did haha you got this for your car? or are you getting it? i need to find something fast and cheap. it shift weird and grinds a little going into second makes me wanna puke :barf:
 
Go with an OE clutch, or at least whatevers cheapest. With a N/T and few mods, the stock clutch should hold just fine. Exedy clutch kit is around 130, not too terrible. With that being said, you mention a big rebuild, so if you are planning big power adders, getting a performance (ACT2100, etc) might be worth the extra cost now so you don't spend it twice. There is no reason that a good clutch will not have plenty of life left by this summer, unless you are horrible at driving a stick and glaze it! :D (which I did in my dads ford when I was 14 and had to pay for it.)
 
well this is the car i learned stick on but i had an idea when i started. but when i did get the hang of it i learned how to dump it and smoke em :ohdamn: guess im paying for it now burnin out on stock 150k clutch. where can i get another OE clutch? like i said im 17 and never had this problem feel like noob :coy:
 
are you sure that its your clutch and not your transmission ?

im not sure like you can tell the clutch is slipping pretty good and i only noticed the small grind when the slipping started and it only grinds when i downshift from any gear to second. discovered it today coming to a light third to second and it ground for a split second and did it almost everytime unless my rpms were at like 2grand. then it wouldnt grind.
 
Yeah I got the same thing (Exedy OEM replacement) clutch kit, but one to fit my car. If your clutch is pretty bad, there is a way to check it. When car is running and stopped put it in reverse. If it doesnt go into reverse easy or pops or grinds, your clutch might be bad. Also see if you can roll your car forward, press the clutch in and shift to reverse. If there is no grind, your clutch should be fine. If it is then we are talking synchros and a tranny rebuild :(
 
Yeah I got the same thing (Exedy OEM replacement) clutch kit, but one to fit my car. If your clutch is pretty bad, there is a way to check it. When car is running and stopped put it in reverse. If it doesnt go into reverse easy or pops or grinds, your clutch might be bad. Also see if you can roll your car forward, press the clutch in and shift to reverse. If there is no grind, your clutch should be fine. If it is then we are talking synchros and a tranny rebuild :(

im hoping its not a tranny rebuild. :pray: im gonna try the slippage test thing to where you go like 30-40 and pop it in 5th. and ill try all that stuff and let you know. really hope its not tranny but hey what can you do.. im not abandoning it so looks like it will get a new tranny :thumb:

ok so after i wrote this i was actually driving to school and i was rolling and said enh ill go for it rolling i pushed the clutch in and shifted to reverse and it did grind. and when i was starting off from a light the clutch was slipping like a champ so im definitley thinking it is the clutch.,
 
my friend said i could get the old flywheel turned at a shop? im not sure if i can or not pry just be better off buying a new one
The clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel are all one piece from the factory on a 420A. There will be no "turning" of the OEM flywheel.
 
i was talking to him and i meant resurfaced i think. but im not sure if its my clutch now i think its my slave or something of that nature im checking fluid and for maybe play in the push rod. but whatever it is will be getting diagnosed tomorrow so ill know for sure and let you know just incase i need some help. :thumb:
 
i was talking to him and i meant resurfaced i think.
Ok, then there will no "resurfacing" of the OEM flywheel.


but im not sure if its my clutch now i think its my slave or something of that nature im checking fluid and for maybe play in the push rod. but whatever it is will be getting diagnosed tomorrow so ill know for sure and let you know just incase i need some help. :thumb:
A broken hydraulic component will differently than a worn clutch. A worn clutch will slip when the pedal is completely out, and possibly not allow the car to go into gear because it's not effectively "uncoupling" the engine and trans between shifts.

A damaged hydraulic component (master cylinder, slave cylinder) will show leakage either under the floor of the car or at the bell housing, and sometimes not allow the clutch to "pump up", resulting in a no-pressure situation at the pedal. The clutch itself will not slip, but shifting may be difficult because the clutch cannot fully engage.
 
I bought a sachs clutch from autopartswarehouse.com for 220. I'm getting it put as we speak :D

You paid 220 for a clutch for a n/t? I have an iphone i'll sell you for $2k, it's unmodified, oem. Hehe, j/p- I suppose if you don't want to resurface it, it makes sense.
 
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