Clutch Engagement Issues

[1ga]

Time line :

I purchased a 1990 eclipse all wheel drive a few years ago at the same time, I owned a 1993 awd eclipse that I put a 6 bolt block into it. Also I put a lightweight flywheel into it-- It ran great.

I then put an Act 2600 into my 90. It wasn't shifting right, so I adjusted the rod on the master Cylinder-- That did the trick.

However 2 months later it stopped disengaging, even if I adjusted to rod to the last thread.

So I did some research and sent my pedal assembly out on the 90.

The 93 eclipse was rotted pretty bad, but the 93 transmission was rebuilt and none of the gears grinded, Unlike my 90 which had a terrible 2nd gear grind.

So I decided to junk the 93 shell and put the good 93 transmission into my 90.

So I put the 93 transmission on, I decided shim the pivot ball after doing some reading.

I installed the flywheel and keep the act2600 into to my 90 as well. I made sure the flywheel was machined and in spec before switching over. I also made sure I swapped the appropriate brackets from the 90 transmission to the 93 transmission.

I got my clutch pedal assembly Back from JNZ and installed it.
Now it disengages better, but not all the way. so it still grinds.
Maybe my clutch fork is bent? Was it a bad idea to shim the pivot ball?

I know there's a check to see if the fork is within a certain window and it seems to be ok.

I also know there's a procedure that I read-- to thread the adjusting rod all the way into the c clamp adjustment, pump it a few times with the reservoir cap off
then adjust it out. Which I haven't tried yet.

By the way the Slave and Master Cyl are brand new and I bleed every last bit of air with a speed bleeder.

I may just go back to the stock clutch and PP.

 

[dsmspickdad]

Replace the clutch fork...update...I installed Competition Clutch forged fork. I think that was brand.

 

[dsmspickdad]

Replace the clutch fork...update...I installed Competition Clutch forged fork. I think that was brand.

 

[1ga]

Hey Thanks, I tried everything but that.
Did you run into this issue as well?
And how could you check if the Fork was faulty?
I know there is a window check, I believe I put the fork that was good out of my 93 transmission into it. So I don't see how it could be bent or worn that quickly..

Got to try everything though.

If I get the flywheel shaved a bit more, but keep in within spec, would that help engagement?

 

[jed344]

Does it grind going into all gears or just one?

 

[1ga]

grinds all of the gears. If I start it in 1st It junces forward a little then it stays stationary. But the car moves as soon as I lift my foot up off the floor.

When the pedal is fully depressed there is about 2 to 3mm of clearance from the bell housing to the fork maybe I could get away with another 2mm washer, replace the fork and pivot ball, since that's the only thing I haven't replaced.

I haven't put an extended rod on it yet either, I read mixed info about them.

 

[1ga]

New Competition clutch fork and pivot ball on order, I have heard a lot of bad things about ACT pressure plates while looking around, such as PP fingers breaking off and design problems.

I even lengthened the rod today about 1/4 inch to no avail.

I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to put the stock clutch and pressure plate back in when I install the new fork and pivot ball, I might add a 2mm shim.

I just want to drive the car, it's been sitting for almost a year, sending the pedal assembly out, pulling the trans almost 4 times- switching the TOB, shimming the ball 2mm, stepping the flywheel within spec, then pulling again to just check things over again. I just want to pull it, put it back together and know it's going to shift.

 

[1ga]

so problem solved, I had damaged the act's pp fingers- they were crushed flat. The car shifts great now, however, there's a new problem. I can't remove the horizontal gear selector held in by a drift pin. I need this lever to get 1st and 3rd.

Anyone have a different method besides an air chizel? I'm thinking maybe cut it off and weld it, or have the shop up the street air chizel it out.

 

[twicks69]

How about using the proper shift lever assembly with the matching shift cables and shifter base?

Most people trying to remove the solid pin from the transmission shift selector lever assembly bend and damage the actual rail while trying to remove the pin even with an air hammer and pin punch insert. It is easier to have matching parts or disassemble the transmission and install the different shift selector assembly with matching selector/shift rails, etc.

 

[1ga]

I have the 93 shifter, cables, the two cable brackets, when I installed them, they were way too long and couldn't get them to mount in the shifter base or cable bracket that bolts to the transmission.

now that I think, I sent the 93 cables back . edit : iI have the right cables in the car, 90 cables, 90 shifter base and shifter, the cable mount that bolts to the transmission is also a 90. iI have read many people doing this by switching out that pin or welding it. I'd buy the cables and try it again if iI had the cash, but need to get the car on the road in a week. (typing on a phone sorry)

90 and 93 horizontal shifter differences. I'm going to end up having it cut and welded to 2-1/2 from pivot point to mount. I'm sure it'll work.