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Cleaning Ringlands.

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Tanro

10+ Year Contributor
2,457
96
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
I have set of 2g NPR pistons on 1g rods for a six bolt. Been cleaning them up a bit more to install new rings and get them ready to go into the block.

Oil ring land is simple enough little bit of brake cleaner and some shop towels. Same with 1st ring land.

Top land is a bi***, anyone have any good cheater methods to get them clean?

Also It seems my dumb ass has gotten the rod caps out of order, any way to tell witch caps go to witch piston? Or should I get them honed or something?
 
Sometimes the machining marks on the sides of the caps and rods match up. Mine do. I was wondering the same on cleaning the ring grooves myself. I have a set of pistons out of a 2.4l right now and want to clean them up before i put them in the motor and then in the car.
 
I would suggest letting them soak in a solvent i.e. carb cleaner for a little while and use either a soft metal or stiff plastic brush assuming that after the soak a paper towel won't take it off.
 
This is the job I hate more than anything when doing a thorough engine rebuild. A proper ring groove cleaning of four pistons for our cars will take around 1-1/2 to 2 hours to do by hand. I have a tiny pick set, small screwdrivers, and I break a piece off of each of the old rings and scrape the grooves until no carbon is left to be sure the new rings do not hang in the grooves.
 
I do have a gal bucket of carb parts cleaner with a dip basket. Think that will work? Let it sit piston down in the dip?
 
My experience with carb parts cleaner is that it cleans gum and varnish perfectly but doesn't touch carbon. You're probably wasting your time unless you can get your hands on some Caustic Soda and fab up your own mini hot tank.
 
Brake Cleaner Wearever Professional Strength plus a my pic set, red scotch brite pads and a roll of shop towels is working wonders. Been setting here watching history channel and cleaning my rods and pistons, plus now working on the throttle body. and 2g elbow gasket surface.

Next up is the intake mani, exhaust mani, and o2 housing. Looking to get the top assembled and ready to go this weekend. If I can get this spun rod switched tomorrow I will get the rotating assy good to go. Should have everything back together by Monday.
 
Methylene chloride, AKA aircraft stripper. It eats carbon like no other, and doesn't damage aluminum. If i'm using press fit rods, i take the rods and pistons to the machine shop, have the rods resized, and the pistons media blasted. They look like new.
 
Im using stock pistons and rods for now. After the first of the year i plan on orderin rods and pistons. Not sure which ones though hard to find forged 86.5mm pistons that arent a arm and leg. My goal right now is to get it runnin. As well as get everything as clean as poss before it goes back together.


Brake Cleaner Wearever Professional Strength plus a my pic set, red scotch brite pads and a roll of shop towels is working wonders. Been setting here watching history channel and cleaning my rods and pistons, plus now working on the throttle body. and 2g elbow gasket surface.

Next up is the intake mani, exhaust mani, and o2 housing. Looking to get the top assembled and ready to go this weekend. If I can get this spun rod switched tomorrow I will get the rotating assy good to go. Should have everything back together by Monday.


Think i may do this tomorrow when the wife is out of the house.
 
Oh sorry didnt realize you needed them for a 2.4. No I doubt it. The stock ones are gonna be 85mm bore. You could take to someone more knowledge than I about math about getting oversize pistons. Though I am not sure that they come big enough.

Best option is gonna be Wiseco I believe. They make some pretty cost effective pistons and offer a 8.5:1 86.5mm piston for use with 2.4 stroker 4g63/4 hybrid applications.

If your planning on using stock pistons in that stroker you might want to go N/A for the moment as If I recall correctly the stoke pistons with the OEM is like 11:1 CR.
 
The stock comp on the 7 bolt 4g64 according to the FSM is 9.5:1. So i should be good as long as i run stock boost for now. Was told i can run upto like 11 to 14psi not sure though. I am actually useing the whole 2.4l short block.

I tried the carb/parts dip i have today and im amazed by the results. Here is a pic of them with very min wiping after soaking for between 30 and 45 min.


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Did you ever figure the caps out?
 

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No One of the rods is spun, I am just gonna have the caps honed when I go get one of my other six bolt rods installed to the piston.

Yeah but your not running the 4g64 head. Stock pistons with a 4g63 head is a lot higher comp.
 
The 63 and the 64 both have 63cc chambers. I think its 63cc. I have found they are the same cc. Also its a late model 7bolt 64. I have the FSM on the car and on the motors.


The early 3 valve motors will cause a higher comp with the 63 head. With the later 4 valve heads the combustion chamber size is the same so it keeps the same comp.
 
^^^ You're probably thinking of a tool used for cleaning out the ring grooves, not the ringlands. In which case, an old piston ring makes for the perfect tool to use as a pick to clean out the ring grooves, so no need to buy a specific tool for it unless you're doing it on a weekly basis.
 
^^^ You're probably thinking of a tool used for cleaning out the ring grooves, not the ringlands. In which case, an old piston ring makes for the perfect tool to use as a pick to clean out the ring grooves, so no need to buy a specific tool for it unless you're doing it on a weekly basis.

Yeah they do. I got the suggestion out of this thread earlier and it works awesome.
 
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