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checking the head

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
Basicly, I'm still in the process of taking out the block and/with the transmission, but since I wasn't the original one to put the head together, or the one to torque it on I decided to take it off the block.

I was also slightly worried about this one time a while back when I jumped time turning the motor over with the starter, but I had no idea of that you can bend your valves with these motors untill recently....so I wanted to check the valves out as well.

Since I pulled the head off with the cam gears inline, all the valves were fully in, and you could tell the valve heads were perfectly flush with the bottom of the head, so that should mean the rest of the valve stem shouldn't be bent right? Or do are you supposed to turn the cam gears to make them come out? Right now I have the cam gears locked in place.

I'm kind of confused on how the manual says to put the top of the head together, is there anyway to check if my heads already correctly put together? Could you tell if someone mixed up the rocker arms and bearing caps?
 
I made a video to mostly show the bottom of the head for the valves, and I took a pic of the top of the head and marked down the markings on the bearing caps.

There appear to be markings on the rollers but half of them are really hard to read, but I see things like L7, H7 or sometthing with a 7. I can understand the I and E for intake and exaust, but have no idea for L and H? I can lable some more things tomorow if needed

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well I was just going by what the manual said they were. best way to check the valves now that the heads off?
 
The followers will not matter what order they are in or what side

Sorry to say, but from the vid you posted, it looks like the head was belt surfaced, I will recomend that you get it mill on a proper mtlling machine.

To check the valves, pull the cam caps and followers so all the valves are closed
turn the head so one set of runners are up, full with a fluid ( water will work, but once done spary WD40 on the valve stems)

Once you have filled the runners with fluid, look at the combustion chamber, a drop or two is fine, but if there is a little stream flowing, or more, the valve and seat will need work.
 
The followers will not matter what order they are in or what side

Sorry to say, but from the vid you posted, it looks like the head was belt surfaced, I will recomend that you get it mill on a proper mtlling machine.

To check the valves, pull the cam caps and followers so all the valves are closed
turn the head so one set of runners are up, full with a fluid ( water will work, but once done spary WD40 on the valve stems)

Once you have filled the runners with fluid, look at the combustion chamber, a drop or two is fine, but if there is a little stream flowing, or more, the valve and seat will need work.

can having the head belt surfaced damage anything? what should I tell the machine shop?
 
Thanks for all the links, I checked them all out. Is the .002 .003 the measurement of how much you need to mill out of the head? Or do I just take it to the machine shop and tell them I need resurfacing with a mill and NOT a beltsander ?

to clarify, a MLS headgasket is just a metal headgasket correct? metal gaskets are what we want?

now that I need to go to the machine shop I'll also have them do the oil port mod
 
You want just enough milled off for a good gasket seal.

MLS = Multi Layer Steel

If you are under 30psi of boost a felpro composite or OE composite will be fine.

Since you are going to the machine shop, you may want to check the pricing of having the valve stem seals changed.
If you have bought a "head set" of gaskets the valve stem seals should be there in it.
The labor to swap the seals I will guess at about $30
The surface should be about $40-50
The oil mod another $10-20
 
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