Check Engine on, engine doesn't start

[dalailama333]

Hi DSM gurus,
I've got a problem with my DSM (1G 1,8 Eclipse NT), I'll try to explaine it (I'm sorry for my english).

Some days ago I forgot headlights on ( ) and the day after the battery was completely down.
I let the engine start with cables linked to another battery and runned for 1 hr to next city.

The problem at first start was clear: the engine can't keep the idle on 750 rpm, but it occurred some years ago and I solved it following the BISS procedure setting (I don't know why, but it seems like ECU forgets the ISC center position).

I don't have my datalogger with me (I'm far from home for business for some months) so I wait a friend of mine ship it to me. In the meantime for a moment "check engine" turns on and the engine starts to cough one or two times.

After that all seems to be right, ECU manages to keep idle after a little warm up, so I think it's the time to go to my garage mechanic, but on the way the "check engine" lights on and the engine stops running immediately, as if spark plug were cutted off. I turn off the key and try to start engine again... it starts and after some km it happens again... and again... untill engine stops definitively running. I call a tow truck.
..obviously when it arrives the engine starts again... but I prefer to take it on the truck to the next park.
The day after I go (with my car running) to an electric garage, ECU doesn't present any error codes, and after 2 hr the car doesn't present any problem .

The problems occurr again (far away from the electric garage ), but now I've got my datalogger...
it says error code 25 (barometric pressure sensor), I clear it and while I'm watching the graph trying to understand what's the matter BARO level comes up from (bar) 1,02 to 1,10... 1,11... 1,12... 1,13... then "check engine" lights on and engine shot down.

The check engine stays on and the engine doesn't start, after a while "check engine" flickers for a while then turns off, the engine start again and the BARO is at 1,02 bar.

Waiting to find a new sensor I decide to follow the BISS procedure setting to have at least the ECU to keep the idle... maybe it solves something... (?)

I follow these steps,
but when I finished, ECU can't keep idle... or better... it manage to keep idle after 2 secs from starts: if I push the throttle down and release it the rpm goes up and then down to 500 rpm, engine coughs a little then ISC makes it go up tu 800 rpm.

I noticed that even if ignition timing adjustment plug pin was grounded when I'm setting the screw over 800rpm ISC starts flicker as if it weren't disabled...

BARO seems to be stable at 1,02 bar.

World around me want me to buy a new car, people start speaking about useless overtreatment and tell me to let her die... but I trust on you...

....please don't say "let her die" you too!

 

[rarest_90_DsM]

Check all your fuses you may have blown one with the jump start. Could also be your maf your baro is built into that. also what is your battery voltage is it stable? Could also be a dieing alternator. I say shell probably live more than likely its your mas air flow sensor.

Are there many dsm in italy?

 

[dalailama333]

Check all your fuses you may have blown one with the jump start.

which fuses? ...under hood, under dash? which fuse could do all that?

Could also be your maf your baro is built into that.

yes, I'll change it with another one I've got at home... but I think there's something more...

also what is your battery voltage is it stable? Could also be a dieing alternator.

no, batt is quite new, alternator works well... I've got a carputer which monitors batt voltage all the time... it's me the stupid who let headlight on!!!

I say shell probably live more than likely its your mas air flow sensor.

Could MAFS turn on "check engine" and make engine not to start?
Could MAFS shout down engine during running? ..as if you have finished fuel or have cutted off all spark plugs?

Are there many dsm in italy?

Just mine.

There are a lot of mitsubishi eclipse, but not american model imported as mine... I saw just two or three here in my life...


Any other suggestion?
...

 

[rarest_90_DsM]

which fuses? ...under hood, under dash? which fuse could do all that?

Mainly under the hood MPI fuse ALT BATT and yes if you pop the right fuse or fuse's the will act very spontaneously mitsu are very picky about there electrical systems plus it quick and easy to rule out

yes, I'll change it with another one I've got at home... but I think there's something more...

no, batt is quite new, alternator works well... I've got a carputer which monitors batt voltage all the time... it's me the stupid who let headlight on!!!

Ok good should be pulling 12-14v constantly

Could MAFS turn on "check engine" and make engine not to start?...

yes

Could MAFS shout down engine during running? ..as if you have finished fuel or have cutted off all spark plugs?...

yes will cause the car to stall especially when you come to a stop or at idle.

Just mine.

There are a lot of mitsubishi eclipse, but not american model imported as mine... I saw just two or three here in my life......

thats awesome you see many evo 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 over there? how bout the FTO i always wanted one of those

Any other suggestion?
...

check your grounds
hows your plugs and wires?
that has a distributor on it check the cap and rotor button
but if its throwing a check engine light for a baro than its probably the maf

let us know what happens

 

[Widget]

Im with Rarest_90 , You'r maf is going bad and i would start there after you check all the main fuses... Especially after it threw the bar code. But check and make sure the maf connection is good , maybe the connector is loose (hopefully). either way Gl and hope it's running great again soon

 

[dalailama333]

There's an update!

Today, during my vain daily problem finding, my dsm didn't start, "check engine" light was on and I connected my datalogger.
It did not locate my ecu, as if ecu was unpowered!
I'm thinking about MPI fuse...
I found that:

"This is the fuse normally removed when doing compression tests or other tests where you need to crank the engine over without allowing it to start. Removing this fuse will also erase the ECU memory, clearing any error codes in the ECU."

Everything seems to put the blame on it!

tomorrow I'll check...
Is it possible it was damaged when I run the car with cables connected with another battery car?

 

[steve]

Sounds like leaking caps to me.

 

[dalailama333]

Sounds like leaking caps to me.

I completely agree with you:
I've already bought new caps... and a spare used ECU...
I know, I know... I should already have it done...

but now I'm not at home for business (some month on)... and this sounds to me like a great homework... so I hope it's the MPI fuse the problem (simply replacement) ..or I'll try to change the ECU with the other one... hoping that works!

I noticed that in the past two years when battery was disconnected in order to perform some works, the ECU seems to forget the ISC step motor central position (giving me idle problems), so I had to reset it every time by the BISS setting procedure. Could it depend on ECU caps leaking?

 

[1g_brandon]

as far as the ecu forgetting position and giving a rough idle after the battery is disconnected, it could be because those caps is what holds power and allows the ecu to hold memory. if there bad then when you disconnect the battery the ecu will dump that.

 

[dalailama333]

as far as the ecu forgetting position and giving a rough idle after the battery is disconnected, it could be because those caps is what holds power and allows the ecu to hold memory. if there bad then when you disconnect the battery the ecu will dump that.

Thank you.

 

[steve]

it could be because those caps is what holds power and allows the ecu to hold memory.

The caps aren't what retains the long term memory, pin 103 is the unswitched backup power source. I believe it's connected to the "room" fuse just like the radio.

When the caps leak the circuit that converts the battery voltage to 5v for the internal RAM backup can get damaged.

 

[dalailama333]

Hi guyes,
my garage mechanic says that it's caused by ignition distributor or by some magnetic sensor inside... is it possible?
Could somebody report to me the right part number (eclipse 1.8l 1992-4) of this item?
I'll try to buy a used part...

 

[steve]

The 1.8L distributor serves as CAS, power transistor, and coil.

There are two versions, a early one used on the 90 cars and a later used from 91 on.
The whole assembly is MD155852 and just the housing minus the cap, rotor, and gear MD618339.
It's only used on the 1.8L Eclipse.

 

[dalailama333]

The 1.8L distributor serves as CAS, power transistor, and coil.

There are two versions, a early one used on the 90 cars and a later used from 91 on.
The whole assembly is MD155852 and just the housing minus the cap, rotor, and gear MD618339.
It's only used on the 1.8L Eclipse.

Thanks very much!

On this auction there is this PN : T6T57371

Is it correct? What's wrong?

 

[steve]

That looks like the right one to me.

 

[DSM1G90]

Usually, when a battery is drained that low to dead, best to shove the battery on a charger since the alternator is being horribly overtaxed in doing both - to charge up the battery and run the system's electrical system....which can take out an alternator.

 

[dalailama333]

HELP...BUMP...UPDATE

Guyes,
this seems to be a challenge.

The car is off.
It doesn't start. Never.
New distributor ignition, changed ECU.
ECU is powered, Distributor is powered but does not power the spark plugs.
What can cause distributor to not power the spark plugs?
Is it possible that some sensors not working cause the ECU not enable the start?
In this case what are these sensors I have to check?
Are there any power relay or fuse I didn't check?

My electric garage is going mad ...me too!

Please help me.

 

[DSM1G90]

Could be that the 80A fuse in the fuse block by the passenger shock tower has opened up.

That fuse is bolted down instead of being just a plug-in fuse.

That keeps the alternator from charging the battery and also kills half of the electrics in the vehicle.

 

[dalailama333]

Thanks,
could you show me in a motor bay photo (even if from internet) which is exactly the fuse?

...I read your post better:
it's not a battery problem.
The alternator works and the battery is full charged,
the starter motor runs, but no power to spark plugs,
it seems as if ECU (or something else) said to ignition distributor not to "distribute" current to spark plugs...

 

[dalailama333]

Update:

the negative pin on the ignition distributor is not powered,
if I'm not wrong, this comes from the ECU, which seems to be OK (tested with 2 ECUs),

why ECU doesn't power the negative pin on the distributor? Is it possible it could depend on a sort of RPM sensor which is not working good?
Which sensor could do that? Where is it?

Please, help me... the rain is coming... and 4 wheeles are better than two...

 

[dalailama333]

Update 2

I'll explain better what results from last months.

Yesterday I opened the ECUs (mine and the spare part), each one of them is in good conditions: no leaking caps.

Check Engine light on

No stable error code stored in ECU, barometric pressure sensor error presented just one time (datalogger checked)

I was looking for a crankshaft sensor... but as said in a previous post of this thread (...that I missed) the CAS is inside the ignition distributor.

New ignition distributor.

It seems the line ECU - Ignition distr. - Spark is ok, but even if Ign. distr. is powered (positive) it misses the negative, as if ECU were not ready for that.
(which ECU pins are connected to ig.distre.? ...it is possible there is a negative line interruption...)

ECU is powered (checked).

------------------

I suspect some sensor doesn't work right... and the ECU doesn't let ignition distributor work.
Could somebody list to me which sensors can do that?
It's not possible for me to change sensors one by one... because there aren't many spare parts in Italy (and they are reeeeeally expensive!), so I have to be quite sure (the more I can) before buying a part.
I bought a Haynes Manual from USA... I'm waiting the package...
...so I'll be rather prepared to test everything is testeable...

Please help me.

 

[steve]

I bought a Haynes Manual from USA... I'm waiting the package...
...so I'll be rather prepared to test everything is testeable..

Just a reminder, the factory service manuals are on the web.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...tions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.html

 

[dalailama333]

Just a reminder, the factory service manuals are on the web.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...tions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.html

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much!

...anyway I bought the manual "on paper"... it's better for reference while working on the engine...

 

[dalailama333]

Dear guyes,
Mitsubishi can't understand what's wrong with my car.

They say that don't have wiring scheme, wiring colors etc. etc. (..and I gave them my Haynes!)
It seems that new ECU, new ignition distributor don't solve the problem: no spark...
now they put the blame on a strange power transistor near ignition distributor, which should be sold with the ignition distributor in Italy... but I bought it in USA...

I can't understand what it is... so I can't manage to buy it from online shop.

So I'm going to leave my car dieing...

SOS