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ECUflash CeddyMod v1 (EcuFlash)

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See I didn't know that til ceddy told me last night. I moved my listed item around and didn't know that mattered but I got it all good now. Ceddy thinks there might be an issue feeding the ecu a 5v signal from my wideband that's wired to my rear o2 location.

I will make a serial cable soon. I have a wiring project starting when the meth kit comes.
 
What exactly should the Baro reading be doing? Depending on which scaling I used on my injectors I can get the reading to cycle, or hold rock steady. I'm assuming we want it to be cycling?

My Baro readings are in the 95-96 range most of the time.

Also long as Baro is between 78 - 105, it won't disable the Fuel Trims.

100 is normal for sea level, 95-96 is fine.


You want your Front O2 cycling and Trims near zero.
Generally you use Wideband readings to adjust Inj Size and Fuel Trim Low to adjust Inj Latency.

One question GSXEclipsePSI I noticed your boost cut delay timer is set to 1000 where mine is 1638375, I was under the impression you need to set it to its max possible value?

There is a setting in CeddyMods to turn off BoostCut/FuelCut.

You should leave the Timer at 1000.


The setting the Timer to max value is a Evo thing, that we DSMers used when the Flashing first started. As more was learned about the DSM code, it appears that that Timer is used for other things besides BoostCut, so it should not be changed or you may be inadvertently effecting other things.
 
Update,

I have solved my backfire issue, for whatever reason it was my car did not like my recent flashes I flashed back to an older version when I first put in my Evo 8 injectors and it pulls great all the way to red-line now.

I am still having the issue with "Excessive time to enter closed...." as well as frozen fuel trims. I believe the consensus around here is that it has something to do with the rear O2?

I still have mine plugged in and my WB is welded just past my flex section in the DP. Would enabling the rear O2 in periphery bring the trims back to life even if it throws a cell? I can live with the cell if I could get my fuel trims working just to make some adjustments and then disable it again.
 
You could hook your front o2 signal to the rear, feeding both with one sensor. With nothing disabled, you may get some catalyst efficiency code, but other than that it should be fine. One other option would be a small adjustable voltage regulator set to say .1v or something. Or, if you have a wideband, hook the analog out to the rear o2 input; I've always been like that and not had issues even back when I did use closed loop (other than a heater CEL).
 
Trims disabled if one true:

Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)
Airflow too low (units are tricky, but it's very low)
Coolant temp < 51F
Coolant temp > 228F
The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode.

I took a long cruise last night and noticed that my O2Sensor readings cycle from 0.01952 to 0.5661 (peak), 0.3904 (avg). What jumped out was that the voltage didn't hit 0.5V for 896 seconds. Can you explain more about how the ECU locks itself in open loop?

I think I've finally scaled my injectors at WOT correctly (526cc scaling for 560's). The image below shows the WBO2 & AFRMap correlation. Let me know if you think this is close enough. Also if my O2Sensor is cycling so low (0.01952V) should I increase or decrease my latency values?

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I decided since I was wiring a bunch of stuff (Fuel Pump, Sub and Meth) I would fix my wideband wire to go under my carpet and to make the serial cable for the datalogger to see if that stops my trims from not updating.

I'm just waiting for the rest of the parts to finish, then I will up date if it have any luck. My rear o2 sensor is now completely unplugged from the ECU no WB input.

jeff24680 & Kiddsm95What is the revision of your ECU before you flashed it?
 

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GSXePSI: Are you asking about the .hex definition? My stock definition was 20550011.hex, and I'm currently using the 20550011 version Ceddy published.

Does anyone know which way (pos+/neg-) to compensate the latency values in order to increase the O2Sensor values? Right now my O2Sensor has a very low output of 0.01952V, but sometimes it will peak at 0.56608V...This is even with using the latency values Ceddy provided for the Evo 5/6 above. Ceddy mentioned that the O2Sensor voltage should cycle from 0.1V to 0.9V every second, so I'm wondering if another way to get the fuel trims to read is to bias the latency values such that the O2Sensor operates in the 0.1V-0.9V range. :hmm:
 
I decided since I was wiring a bunch of stuff (Fuel Pump, Sub and Meth) I would fix my wideband wire to go under my carpet and to make the serial cable for the datalogger to see if that stops my trims from not updating.

I'm just waiting for the rest of the parts to finish, then I will up date if it have any luck. My rear o2 sensor is now completely unplugged from the ECU no WB input.

jeff24680 & Kiddsm95What is the revision of your ECU before you flashed it?

Not sure if this is what you meant but this is my original ROM info(on left) before I flashed it I made a backup. What I am currently using on right.

**EDIT**
Question.
Why would making a serial cable for the datalogger allow your trims to update again, sorry if I missed something. Just trying to understand your train of thought on this. I use this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/360235-evoscan-issue.html#post152114943 for logging my AEM WB. and Open port 2.0 Tactrix cable for logging evoscan.


**EDIT 2** Upon reading your posts again GSXEclipsePSI I realized why you are going to make a serial cable, however before you go to the effort, I still have my o2 sensor wired stock and my trims are frozen as well. My WB is wired in my DP just past the flex section. I have my rear O2 disabled in peripheries that's it.

Sorry for hacking up this post so terribly. Attached is my most UP TO DATE ROM after fixing my backfire issue.
 

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Does anyone know which way (pos+/neg-) to compensate the latency values in order to increase the O2Sensor values? Right now my O2Sensor has a very low output of 0.01952V, but sometimes it will peak at 0.56608V...This is even with using the latency values Ceddy provided for the Evo 5/6 above. Ceddy mentioned that the O2Sensor voltage should cycle from 0.1V to 0.9V every second, so I'm wondering if another way to get the fuel trims to read is to bias the latency values such that the O2Sensor operates in the 0.1V-0.9V range. :hmm:

A higher latency setting adds fuel, lower removes fuel.
 
People having issues with the Fuel Trims not updating.

Periphery0, bit 1, has been used to disable the Rear O2 Sensor, but it has the the undesirable effect of sometimes disabling the Fuel Trims also.

So to fix the Fuel Trim issue, Periphery0, bit 1, must be set to 1.

Like so:
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* People who had this issue please keep me posted of your results with new setting. Such as CELs, etc.


Update: Periphery2, bit 11; set = 0; Should remove all Rear Heater CELs, P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161.
 

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I'm not going to get a CEL light now am I its not connected. Now with the meth I'm hoping to get this 6152 pushing good boost 27-32psi. Will my maps be fine, or do you have to rescale them. I forget the LOAD max right now as I'm on my desktop but if you could send me one with a higher scaling cause I still don't understand how to move stuff over in ecuflash. I watched the ecuflash video's from recompile on the evo forums.

I know you can take out some rows in the under 100 load.
 
I'm not going to get a CEL light now am I its not connected. Now with the meth I'm hoping to get this 6152 pushing good boost 27-32psi. Will my maps be fine, or do you have to rescale them. I forget the LOAD max right now as I'm on my desktop but if you could send me one with a higher scaling cause I still don't understand how to move stuff over in ecuflash. I watched the ecuflash video's from recompile on the evo forums.

I know you can take out some rows in the under 100 load.

Yes you will get a Rear O2 Heater CEL, I just sent message to guy who did the Rear O2 Simulator Patch for Evos, hopefully he can help.
(Think only the Heater CEL can't be disabled in the Periphery, you can plug the Rear O2 in and strap it to exhaust or underbody to stop CEL. Don't put it in interior because Heater can cause fires. I expect a software only fix is possible, like the Evos have.)


You don't want to remove columns under 100 Load, it causes poor drivability issues while in vacuum.

The BigMaps highest Load column is 340, which equates to about 35 psi.
You will overrun the 2G MAF before you need to rescale the BigMaps.
 
People having issues with the Fuel Trims not updating.

* People who had this issue please keep me posted of your results with new setting. Such as CELs, etc.

I'm pretty sure I'll get a CEL, this is why I have my rear O2 disabled in the periphery bits. It's also wrapped in foil and stowed under the car because my WBO2 is populating the rear bung.

A large winter storm just hit tonight and it's snowing something aweful outside, plus my DSM is wearing track shoes at the moment. I'll report back the results on Monday-Tuesday when its 60°F again.
 
Does anyone know which way (pos+/neg-) to compensate the latency values in order to increase the O2Sensor values?


Injector latency is time that is always added to every pulsewidth in order to compensate for the time needed to open and close the injector. Large injector frames usually mean a higher latency value in trade since it takes more time to accelerate and move the larger mass of the bigger internal components at the same supply voltage.

In order to raise your delivered fuel amount (a lower AFR value = raised NBO2 voltage) you need to increase a latency value.
 
Enabled the rear O2 as well as all emission associated options in the periphery bits. I have Oxygen Feed Back Trim (STFT) readings that peak at 5% after 16 minutes, but still nothing for LTFT. Any ideas?

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I did not have to enable any emissions for my trims to being working again.

I simply changed the Periphery0 Bit 01 value to 1. I waited around 16 minutes at idle and it updated my IdleLTFT, then I drove around town running some errands and it updated my cruise LTFT(around 8%).

My periphery settings posted.
 

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Iteresting...The only difference between our periphery bits are as follows.

bit 04 & 05 (P0300): Mine were off, you have them on. Description says set them to zero. :confused:
bit 02 (P0133, P0159): Mine were on, you have them off.
bit 01 (P0421): Mine on, you have them off.

I've adjusted mine so that they match your's. Will report the outcome shortly. :pray:
 
Interesting...The only difference between our periphery bits are as follows.

bit 04 & 05 (P0300): Mine were off, you have them on. Description says set them to zero. :confused:
bit 02 (P0133, P0159): Mine were on, you have them off.
bit 01 (P0421): Mine on, you have them off.

I've adjusted mine so that they match yours. Will report the outcome shortly. :pray:



Not sure if this is an issue but I still have my rear O2 plugged into my exhaust and my ECU. I have my WB welded just past the flex section on the DP.

Just an FYI
 
Not sure if this is an issue but I still have my rear O2 plugged into my exhaust and my ECU. I have my WB welded just past the flex section on the DP.

Just an FYI

My rear O2 is still plugged into my ECU as well, it's just disconnected from the exhaust since my WBO2 is occuping its spot. If my fuel trims still give me trouble I'll try plugging the rear O2 back in.

Thanks for posting your periphery bits btw...very helpful. :thumb:

Didn't work so well. The WBO2 pegged lean (---) on the gauge. I'm going to re-install the rear O2 and see what happens.
 
Here are my settings. I have a lot of things disconnected. :banghead:
 

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I didn't touch the settings. I emailed ceddy and he asked what I had disconnected and what not I told him, and he sent me the rom with those items set up that way.

My idle is lean with a slight idle surge when revving high or hard pull and coming to a stop, it bumps up twice and then settles down to idle rpm.

I haven't made any changes yet or tested anything cause I'm still in pieces right now.

Which items do you suggest switching back?
 
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