1G CAS problems, now won't start

[AdamBaughman]

Have a 93 GSX that I 6 bolt swapped. Have been having idle issues for a long time. Found a cracked injector, solved the misfire. Timed ignition 5* was even a little bit better but every once in awhile upon warm start up it would smoke like a civ and was missing/running super rich.

I didn't know CAS was out 180. So I lined it up TDC and now the thing won't start at all. How can it run 180 out but not even start when corrected. I understand wasted spark but fuel injectors would be firing 2 strokes off.

I've owned this car 10 plus years and only been able to drive it 100 miles, all while the CAS was 180 out and it ripped before hard fuel cut or knock above 6k rpms.

No experience with a multimeter, but I have one.

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[Justin DuBois]

Just a thought, Maybe - while 180 out, the fuel trims would have started lean, and then been corrected in the rich direction, and now with the correct injector timing it's too rich? Are you smelling fuel? are the injectors clicking when cranking? Its easy enough to take the sensor off and spin it by hand with the key on and listen for injector and spark clicks. Easy enough to put it back 180 out and try again.

First suggestion to improve drivability - re-route the BOV vent back to the intake.

 

[AdamBaughman]

Probably a good idea to spin the CAM and check injectors. I'm sitting in the car right now keep trying to start it and it's putting little more each time. I also just discovered while ignition is on moving the MAF plug my IAC clicks a bunch. Like it usually does alone with key on. But today it hasn't been. Could the MAF be goin out or is it just static? Plug has a little bit of blue corrosion on the terminals.

First suggestion to improve drivability - re-route the BOV vent back to the intake.

Would love to just don't have the hose or stock BOV. Focused on figuring out this idle rn.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Probably a good idea to spin the CAM and check injectors. I'm sitting in the car right now keep trying to start it and it's putting little more each time. I also just discovered while ignition is on moving the MAF plug my IAC clicks a bunch. Like it usually does alone with key on. But today it hasn't been. Could the MAF be goin out or is it just static? Plug has a little bit of blue corrosion on the terminals.

In the process of removing the CAS, perhaps the wires have degraded in the plug? Can you use contact cleaner (no key on) in the harness plug and the CAS? Same question with the MAF plug - are the pins in good repair? Clean?

 

[AdamBaughman]

In the process of removing the CAS, perhaps the wires have degraded in the plug? Can you use contact cleaner (no key on) in the harness plug and the CAS? Same question with the MAF plug - are the pins in good repair? Clean?

Will have to get some, CAS plug looks good but the MAF is pretty corroded. It started a few minutes ago tried again and it like locked up. Kind of like cranking on a dead battery. Guessing combustion on the wrong stroke what contact cleaner exactly?

 

[DSMPT]

How can it run 180 out but not even start when corrected

Most of time it can run with the CAS 180 degree off but sometimes difficult or impossible to start the engine. The symptoms would depend on the setup

I understand wasted spark but fuel injectors would be firing 2 strokes off

Because the fuel would stay in the inlet ports and would be sucked at the next intake stroke, like the starting fluid.

I've owned this car 10 plus years and only been able to drive it 100 miles, all while the CAS was 180 out.

It's possible but probably the engine wouldn't be able to rev until redline or rev up slower or stop revving above certain RPM. From my experience, if the car is stock or almost stock, actually the car runs ok at low/mid range, but at high RPM you would start to experience like fuel cut rev limiter above certain engine speed. And AFR would be always unstable and EGT would be much higher.

If the CAS is the only thing you touched, maybe actually you had it correctly, and now is actually 180 degree off?

 

[AdamBaughman]

Most of time it can run with the CAS 180 degree off but sometimes difficult or impossible to start the engine. The symptoms would depend on the setup


Because the fuel would stay in the inlet ports and would be sucked at the next intake stroke, like the starting fluid.


It's possible but probably the engine wouldn't be able to rev until redline or rev up slower or stop revving above certain RPM. From my experience, if the car is stock or almost stock, actually the car runs ok at low/mid range, but at high RPM you would start to experience like fuel cut rev limiter above certain engine speed. And AFR would be always unstable and EGT would be much higher.

If the CAS is the only thing you touched, maybe actually you had it correctly, and now is actually 180 degree off?

Unless parts don't line up? Like CAS being backwards on different years or different year ECU reading CAS backwards? I was hoping I had it backwards after setting it. Pulled it today definitely TDC motor and CAS. Appreciate the help from both you guys. I'm not exactly lost, just can't find the problem. Lol

It started a few minutes ago tried again and it like locked up. Kind of like cranking on a dead battery. Guessing combustion on the wrong stroke

Never mind battery is dead

 

[Justin DuBois]

It started a few minutes ago tried again and it like locked up. Kind of like cranking on a dead battery. Guessing combustion on the wrong stroke
Never mind battery is dead

Ya know - maybe the battery is dead?

 

[AdamBaughman]

I've reset the ECU, double checked all timing. Checked almost all connectors, It won't start. Even tried another ECU. Few days ago after correcting CAS it was starting but would idle to like 2500 eventually coming down until it quickly dies when it almost finds idle at 1k.

Eventually it started misfiring and now it won't hardly start at all. I've tried unplugging ECT and MAF, which I think unplugging MAF helped it put to life.

Tonight I got one good start no misfires but instantly died. And now battery is dead. I need to check sensors with a multimeter but have no idea how to go about that.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I've reset the ECU, double checked all timing. Checked almost all connectors, It won't start. Even tried another ECU. Few days ago after correcting CAS it was starting but would idle to like 2500 eventually coming down until it quickly dies when it almost finds idle at 1k.

Eventually it started misfiring and now it won't hardly start at all. I've tried unplugging ECT and MAF, which I think unplugging MAF helped it put to life.

Tonight I got one good start no misfires but instantly died. And now battery is dead. I need to check sensors with a multimeter but have no idea how to go about that.

Brick by brick. You should really try and find a hose for the BOV recycle - does not have to be stock BOV to put a hose on it. You can also take the opportunity to do a boost leak test, and with the intake off, clean the air filter. Do not clean the MAF internally - a MAF requires specific handling.

 

[AdamBaughman]

Ya know - maybe the battery is dead?

Lol it has been cranking all day, I don't blame it. I do understand how important proper volts is. Haven't checked but the car cranked all night pretty well.

Brick by brick. You should really try and find a hose for the BOV recycle. You can also take the opportunity to do a boost leak test.

100% agree. Never done a boost leak test. Don't have the tools. Definitely want that recirc.

 

[Justin DuBois]

A boost leak test is where you remove the intake snorkle from the turbo, and attach a fitting to a boost source (air compressor) with constant supply of 15-20 psi of pressure. You then listen for air leaks. pinpoint and resolve each issue (and you will find issues)

 

[AdamBaughman]

A boost leak test is where you remove the intake snorkle from the turbo, and attach a fitting to a boost source (air compressor) with constant supply of 15-20 psi of pressure. You then listen for air leaks. pinpoint and resolve each issue (and you will find issues)

Sick bud will have to mock something up soon. I have ordered EGR block off plate too for that same concern, even replaced my BISS cuz rubber was smoked. Would that pressure leak out valves/past throttle plate?? Would you hear that too?
Or even turbo seals??

 

[Justin DuBois]

Sick bud will have to mock something up soon. I have ordered EGR block off plate too for that same concern, even replaced my BISS cuz rubber was smoked. Would that pressure leak out valves/past throttle plate?? Would you hear that too?
Or even turbo seals??

it tests all the way up to the pistons, and yes the turbo compressor