1G Carrier bearing stud, did you shear yours off? Here's how I fixed mine!

I was kind of excited the day I picked up my DeWalt Cordless Impact Gun, so I wanted to try it out after I charged it up. What was the first thing I wanted to hit? Hmmmm, how about we drop the driveshaft. So I threw on the socket, and punched it. I thought wow, this thing isn't moving, so I hit it some more. Turns out I was newb, and was pressing the trigger for tighten instead of loosen. Result ? Sheared off the carrier bearing stud with the nut:

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Above are the rear carrier bearing studs, pic taken from the passenger side of the car. For relativity, I re-installed the original bushing/nut on the driver's side stud, and closer to us is the stud I sheared off.

So the rear studs are part of a big underpanel that gets spot welded at the assembly plant. The front 2 studs are in their own separate "cups" that then get spot welded to the aforementioned bigger panel. I had a couple options to fix it, Josh from JNZ says "fix it anyway possible". Big help Josh!

So was I going to call Stevie Miller and have him 'un-weld' the whole panel off a car, somehow tow my car to another shop, un-weld mine, weld up the donor panel? Was I just going to grind this stud off, somehow tow my car to another shop, and have them possible weld up a stud that was straight ? Man, there had to be something else I could do. How about if I extended the stud ? I started looking up 'sleeve nuts', 'stud extentions', etc. I came across an interesting part, locally available at Home Depot:

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Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you the
Milwaukee Model # 48-03-1005 Internet # 202803140 Store SKU # 986491 M10-1.25 to 3/8 in.-1 Thread Adapter
Price $4.97

The Milwaukee 48-03-1005 Angle grinder adapter works for most angle grinders with a 5/8-in. threaded arbor. Screw on adapter for reducing 5/8 in. -11 thread to the smaller M10 x 1.25 thread and arbor size. The adapter is commonly used on wire cups and wheels. Adapter is a common size for most angle grinders. Includes (1) adapter 5/8 in. -11 to m10-1.25.

• Screw on adapter for reducing 5/8 in., -11 thread to the smaller M10 x 1.25 thread and arbor size
• The adapter is commonly used on wire cups and wheels
• Adapter is a common size for most angle grinders
• Includes (1) adapter 5/8 in. -11 to m10-1.25

I had the Torque Solution Carrier Bearing Bushings sitting here on my desk, and I thought, these things are kinda plasticy, something with a nice coarse thread like that *might* just work out nicely. So I went on the internet-hunt to find the proper 17/32" drill bit, a 5/8"-11 bottom tap, and also this nifty MF'er called a M10x1.25 split-die:

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This thing is nifty because you spread it apart (it has a little spring wrapped around the perimeter of the die), and you put it all the way at the top of the stud, flush with the body. Then you go ahead and put a 1" socket on it, and loosen the die all the way down and off the stud. So you un-thread the die, cleaning up all the threads on the stud, especially helpful at the area where you sheared it off.

Then I hit the drill press, I measured the milwaukee thingy's threads would go about 15mm into the Torque Solution bushing, so I set the drill depth, and drilled the 17/32s hole. Then gently tapped the hole in the bushing with the 5/8-11 tap:

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I wanted this adapter thingy to hit undrilled hole on the inside, and flush with the flat surface of the bushing on the outside, seems like I got it sorta just right:

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What's nice is the diameter of this is 22mm, a wrench or socket most of us have for dsm's.

Then I test fit one of my new Carrier Bearings on the car, stock bushing on the driver's side, and my new Torque Solutions 'Solution' on the sheared stud:

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Man, I nailed this one on the head. Don't have stud for a nut? No problem if it sheared off right where the nut tightened down.

In chapter 16 of the FSM, I guess the propeller shaft bearing torque spec is the 22-29 ft-lbs spec. I'll be sure to loc-tite the threads, and gently tighten it.

Hope this helps someone, even though its probably about 20 years late!

~t

 

[tmoney20g]

Update, also found the part at my local NAPA near the wire wheels and whatnot:

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C.../Wire-Wheel-Grinder/_/R-WLD7771026_0282525726

 

[tmoney20g]

10/6 UPDATE:
Found an even better deal on a 7 Piece Grinder Kit at Harbor Freight, which includes the arbor, for $9.99 on sale.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-grinder-brush-kit-90976.html

If this link ever goes bad, just search "grinder kit" or "grinder brush" on HF's site, as it comes up under a couple different part numbers.

 

[jholskey]

Would you happen to have that nifty m10x1.25 die laying around that I could pay you for? I’ve run into the same issue and followed your how-to but can’t lay my hands on a split die like you have shown/described anywhere, I’ve scoured the internet to no find no option. Any other DSM’er that could help I would greatly appreciate it!

 

[19Eclipse90]

They aren't made with a spring, but here's a couple different M10 x 1.25 split dies available:

Uncoated High-Speed Steel Screw Thread Die 1-1/2" OD, M10 x 1.25 mm Right-Hand Thread​

Titanium-Nitride(Tin) High-Speed Steel Screw Thread Die 1" OD, M10 x 1.25 mm Right-Hand Thread​

M10x1.25 Metric Fine High Speed Steel Round Adjustable Die 1" OD, Right Hand Thread​

 

[jholskey]

They aren't made with a spring, but here's a couple different M10 x 1.25 split dies available:

Uncoated High-Speed Steel Screw Thread Die 1-1/2" OD, M10 x 1.25 mm Right-Hand Thread​

Titanium-Nitride(Tin) High-Speed Steel Screw Thread Die 1" OD, M10 x 1.25 mm Right-Hand Thread​

M10x1.25 Metric Fine High Speed Steel Round Adjustable Die 1" OD, Right Hand Thread​

Thank you for the response, something like this is what I’m looking for. With the damage done to my carrier studs I don’t know that a normal die would be able to fix the threads.

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So update, I have found a company selling a die that will work.

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