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1G How to replace your AWD FRONT wheel bearings

This is the best and cheapest way I have found to change you're 1g Wheel Bearings within a day.
I only took photo's of the part of this process I had trouble with.

Constant grinding
No change with side to side motion
No change with braking
No change with RPM's
Gets louder as vehicle speed increases

Tools and Parts you need:
2x Inner wheel bearing seals
2x Outer wheel bearing seals
2x Wheel bearings
2x Large Cotter pins
2x Medium sized cotter pins
Axle greese
PB Blaster

10,12,16,17,18mm Wrenches and sockets.
1''/ 1/4 or 32mm socket(stubby or deep socket is fine I prefer stubby)
Breaker bar
Torque wrench for up to 110ish
Pickle fork or equivalent ball joint and tie rod remover
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Vise grips if your ball joint or tie rod spins
1''/ 5/16ths craftsman 1/2 drive It needs to have a step down I'll illustrate later (Trust me on this one...)
Needle nose pliers
2 Flathead screwdrivers with some meat on them no wimpy ones...
Tin foil

For reference: If you are not familiar of the terms used to describe your ball bearings here are the basic terms I will be using. Our ball bearings are double sided. So when I say inner race and outer race. You need to be familiar with where you are placing the ball bearing at the said time. I'll try and make this as clear as possible.
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Ok start off by pulling your car into your favorite garage or parking spot.

Step 1. Loosen lug nuts only enough to get them UNtorqued. Jack up DSM and place two stands at both sides of the frame. Completely remove lug nuts and wheels.
Step 2. Remove your axle Cotter pin and toss it.
Step 3. Now take the 1 1/4 or 32mm socket and your breaker bar and get to work. You need to loosen your axle nut. If you need to have someone stand on the brakes while you're torquing. Once thats done bring your nut just out far enough to where you wont see any threads. tap the axle to loosen it up from the hub. Then completely remove the nut and set aside.
Step 4. Take a 17mm Socket and loosen youre slide pins for your brake caliper, clean them off and set them aside.
Step 5. Remove the caliper from the disc and tie it up with the string or bunji cord to the spring to take the pressure off the brake hose.
Step 6. Take the same 17mm socket and remove the Brake caliper mounting bracket.
Step 7. Remove the rotor with a hammer. If the rotor not come off with ease and you have ABS then follow the hose attatched to your strut to the back side of the assembly. This is your speed sensor. I'm not sure if it is there on nonABS. Anyways, there are two 12mm bolts holding the speed sensor to the hub. Take both of those bolts out and stick them into the two holes provided in your brake disk. Turn them in until each one stops. Once they are in turn each screw 2 turns and then switch until the rotor is off.
Step 8. Take a 17mm socket and a 17mm wrench and remove the two bolts at the bottom of the strut and the top of the hub. After the nuts are off leave the bolts in the holes until further noted.
Step 9. Remove Tie rod cotter pin. Take a 17mm(I THINK!) socket and remove nut. Once the nut and cotter pin are removed take your pickle fork or Ball joint remover and disconnect the tie rod from the hub.
Step 10. Remove top two bolts from strut hub mating point. Remove axle GENTLY from the hub.
Step 11. Remove lower ball joint nut and use pickle fork or equivalent to remove ball joint from hub.

VIOLA! You now have yourself a hub for you to work with.

Now the hard part is getting these bearings off. The easy part is putting them back on.

NOTE: If you have ABS hubs with the speed sensor and all. You do not need to remove the bolts that go into the inner hub. These bolts also stick through your rotor.


Step 1. Take AMPRO 3 arm gear remover and use two wrenches you wont mind bending if things go wrong and attach the puller to the inner most side of the hub the best way you can. Most of you wont get it right the first time...I didn't. After that use a large 3/8ths drive socket to press against the smallest ring you see from the other side. Turn the socket upside down and stick the center point of the puller in the circle in the bottom of the socket.
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NOTE: If you have problems turning the nut at the top to press the inner hub out like I did use something SOLID to stick between the lugs to hold it steady. Carefull not to ruin any threads on the lugs. I had my dads jeep with his winch mounting plate available. Threw a towel over that and it worked like a charm.
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Next after that is off you'll have two pieces. The inner hub and the outer hub.

Step 2. We'll start with the Inner hub.On the Inner hub which is the side with the lugs you'll have the outer race and the outer bearing seal under that. This is very specific to work fast and easy so listen up. Take a TOUGH screw driver and pull the outer seal over as far as it will go.
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Stick your screwdriver UNDER the seal and pry it up.
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After your seal looks like above. Go under that from the OPPOSITE SIDE we've been working with and pry backwards. If you need to you can use the OTHER screwdriver on the other side of the axle splines and pry backwards. It will come out I promise.


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Proven Member
Apr 6, 2005
Fountain, Colorado
Step 3. Attach your 3 arm puller to the underside of your outer race and make sure whichever socket you use as a center point is LARGE enough not to slip into the spline section and ruin your splines. That would be bad.

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You get the point.

Step 4. After your inner hub is finished set it aside and lets concentrate on your outer hub which attaches to your Tie rod, ball joint and lower strut.
THIS IS AN IMPORTANT STEP SO LISTEN UP: Turn your hub down to where your looking at it from the engines point of view. You'll notice you have a snap ring in there to prevent the bearing from coming out. Take your needle nose pliers and get that sucker out. Careful though it will be under some pressure. If it flys off you can bet its coming towards your face. Be careful and take your time. Safety first. If you do not remove this ring like I forgot to my second time around you'll bend the crap out of it and risk breaking it.
If your ball bearings and inner race haven't fallen out then you wont need to put them there. If they DID fall out. Put them in there like shown. Then take your 1 5/16ths socket and stick it in your race. If you notice it fits perfectly ;).
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Now get some hardy backer or if you dont care about the surface underneath where you're about to start pounding, start pounding on the socket.
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Now you understand why i said craftsman. If the socket breaks you can replace it for free.

Step 5. Clean everything up as best as possible and clean your hands and your work area.


Step 1. I took my bearings apart and added more grease to them. They come pre-greased but I tend to overdo it sometimes. Do this now if you prefer. Place your bearings and inner hub in the freezer for now until noted to get them. They should be in there for a good 20 minutes.

Step 2. Clean up your outer hub with brake cleaner and make sure you clean where the snap ring came out of as it harbors dirty grease that will be forced out later.

Step 3. Now after your bearings nice and cold take it out of the freezer and get your hub ready. Place the hub on the hardy backer or preferred surface backside up. While your bearings sitting in your hand take the bottom inner race off, otherwise when you're pounding your bearing in the hub it will fly out and get all dirty which isn't cool. Take some grease and grease the inside of the hub where the bearing will be sitting. Take your 1 5/16ths socket and place it inside the top side of your bearing and place the bearing in the hub. Pound the bearing into the hub trying your best to make sure it goes in straight and even on all sides otherwise it will bind and that would suck.

Step 4. After both bearings are in, place both snaprings BACK where you found them with your needle nose pliers. Then install your INNER bearing seal, it should be the thicker one of the two and every one i've seen has had a metal housing. It will have a sealing surface on both sides. I packed mine with grease which I'm unsure was necessary but its better than finding out on the side of the road right? The seal will be a bit tough to get in. You'll need a medium size screwdriver and a hammer. You need to place the seal in with the crevis towards the bearing. Push one side in and make sure its snug in there or when you hit it in, it'll pop out and get dirty. Take the screwdriver and hit the side of the seal thats sticking up the most. Then go around the seal as best you can and make sure its in there. You'll notice that there will be a gap from the bearing and the seal. I packed that area with grease. Allow the assembly to warm up to room temperature.

Step 5. Take your outer bearing and pack it with grease. Then take your inner hub out of the freezer and place your outer bearing seal on the inner hub with the crevis out with that area packed with grease. Make sure it slides OVER the lip of the bottom of the shaft. Next add grease to the spline shaft.

Step 6. Take your hub assembly and place your inner race that you set aside from getting dirty BACK into the bearing if you haven't done so already. Then set your inner hub lugs down on hardy backer or preferred surface and take your hub with the arms swept back and the dust plate between the inner and outer hub and set it on the inner hub. Then take your 1 5/16's socket(Now aren't you glad you trusted me?) and place it inside the bearing so you can start pounding the inside of the bearing OVER the inner hub and spline assembly. Now pound it until your hits start getting solid. That means you're hitting the inner hub and you need to turn the socket around. Turn it so that you're hitting the small end of the socket to allow the inner hub to become completely flush just like it looked when you pressed it out.

After you're all done pressing everything back together. Put everything back the way it came.
If your ball joint spins I recommend using visegrips to get the nut started then pull back on the hub to get the stud from the ball joint to stop spinning.
If your Tie Rod starts to spin. I recommend hitting the underside of it with a hammer and then start the nut and it should go on. If that doesn't work try visegrips around the shaft after pushing the boot down a bit. I haven't had any experience of it still spinning after hitting it
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