This is the best and cheapest way I have found to change you're 1g Wheel Bearings within a day.
I only took photo's of the part of this process I had trouble with.
Symptoms:
Constant grinding
No change with side to side motion
No change with braking
No change with RPM's
Gets louder as vehicle speed increases
Tools and Parts you need:
2x Inner wheel bearing seals
2x Outer wheel bearing seals
2x Wheel bearings
2x Large Cotter pins
2x Medium sized cotter pins
Axle greese
PB Blaster
10,12,16,17,18mm Wrenches and sockets.
1''/ 1/4 or 32mm socket(stubby or deep socket is fine I prefer stubby)
Breaker bar
Torque wrench for up to 110ish
Pickle fork or equivalent ball joint and tie rod remover
Vise grips if your ball joint or tie rod spins
1''/ 5/16ths craftsman 1/2 drive It needs to have a step down I'll illustrate later (Trust me on this one...)
Needle nose pliers
2 Flathead screwdrivers with some meat on them no wimpy ones...
Tin foil
Oven
For reference: If you are not familiar of the terms used to describe your ball bearings here are the basic terms I will be using. Our ball bearings are double sided. So when I say inner race and outer race. You need to be familiar with where you are placing the ball bearing at the said time. I'll try and make this as clear as possible.
REMOVAL OF HUB
Ok start off by pulling your car into your favorite garage or parking spot.
Step 1. Loosen lug nuts only enough to get them UNtorqued. Jack up DSM and place two stands at both sides of the frame. Completely remove lug nuts and wheels.
Step 2. Remove your axle Cotter pin and toss it.
Step 3. Now take the 1 1/4 or 32mm socket and your breaker bar and get to work. You need to loosen your axle nut. If you need to have someone stand on the brakes while you're torquing. Once thats done bring your nut just out far enough to where you wont see any threads. tap the axle to loosen it up from the hub. Then completely remove the nut and set aside.
Step 4. Take a 17mm Socket and loosen youre slide pins for your brake caliper, clean them off and set them aside.
Step 5. Remove the caliper from the disc and tie it up with the string or bunji cord to the spring to take the pressure off the brake hose.
Step 6. Take the same 17mm socket and remove the Brake caliper mounting bracket.
Step 7. Remove the rotor with a hammer. If the rotor not come off with ease and you have ABS then follow the hose attatched to your strut to the back side of the assembly. This is your speed sensor. I'm not sure if it is there on nonABS. Anyways, there are two 12mm bolts holding the speed sensor to the hub. Take both of those bolts out and stick them into the two holes provided in your brake disk. Turn them in until each one stops. Once they are in turn each screw 2 turns and then switch until the rotor is off.
Step 8. Take a 17mm socket and a 17mm wrench and remove the two bolts at the bottom of the strut and the top of the hub. After the nuts are off leave the bolts in the holes until further noted.
Step 9. Remove Tie rod cotter pin. Take a 17mm(I THINK!) socket and remove nut. Once the nut and cotter pin are removed take your pickle fork or Ball joint remover and disconnect the tie rod from the hub.
Step 10. Remove top two bolts from strut hub mating point. Remove axle GENTLY from the hub.
Step 11. Remove lower ball joint nut and use pickle fork or equivalent to remove ball joint from hub.
VIOLA! You now have yourself a hub for you to work with.
Now the hard part is getting these bearings off. The easy part is putting them back on.
NOTE: If you have ABS hubs with the speed sensor and all. You do not need to remove the bolts that go into the inner hub. These bolts also stick through your rotor.
BEARING REMOVAL
Step 1. Take AMPRO 3 arm gear remover and use two wrenches you wont mind bending if things go wrong and attach the puller to the inner most side of the hub the best way you can. Most of you wont get it right the first time...I didn't. After that use a large 3/8ths drive socket to press against the smallest ring you see from the other side. Turn the socket upside down and stick the center point of the puller in the circle in the bottom of the socket.
NOTE: If you have problems turning the nut at the top to press the inner hub out like I did use something SOLID to stick between the lugs to hold it steady. Carefull not to ruin any threads on the lugs. I had my dads jeep with his winch mounting plate available. Threw a towel over that and it worked like a charm.
Next after that is off you'll have two pieces. The inner hub and the outer hub.
Step 2. We'll start with the Inner hub.On the Inner hub which is the side with the lugs you'll have the outer race and the outer bearing seal under that. This is very specific to work fast and easy so listen up. Take a TOUGH screw driver and pull the outer seal over as far as it will go.
Stick your screwdriver UNDER the seal and pry it up.
After your seal looks like above. Go under that from the OPPOSITE SIDE we've been working with and pry backwards. If you need to you can use the OTHER screwdriver on the other side of the axle splines and pry backwards. It will come out I promise.
I only took photo's of the part of this process I had trouble with.
Symptoms:
Constant grinding
No change with side to side motion
No change with braking
No change with RPM's
Gets louder as vehicle speed increases
Tools and Parts you need:
2x Inner wheel bearing seals
2x Outer wheel bearing seals
2x Wheel bearings
2x Large Cotter pins
2x Medium sized cotter pins
Axle greese
PB Blaster
10,12,16,17,18mm Wrenches and sockets.
1''/ 1/4 or 32mm socket(stubby or deep socket is fine I prefer stubby)
Breaker bar
Torque wrench for up to 110ish
Pickle fork or equivalent ball joint and tie rod remover
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Vise grips if your ball joint or tie rod spins
1''/ 5/16ths craftsman 1/2 drive It needs to have a step down I'll illustrate later (Trust me on this one...)
Needle nose pliers
2 Flathead screwdrivers with some meat on them no wimpy ones...
Tin foil
Oven
For reference: If you are not familiar of the terms used to describe your ball bearings here are the basic terms I will be using. Our ball bearings are double sided. So when I say inner race and outer race. You need to be familiar with where you are placing the ball bearing at the said time. I'll try and make this as clear as possible.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
REMOVAL OF HUB
Ok start off by pulling your car into your favorite garage or parking spot.
Step 1. Loosen lug nuts only enough to get them UNtorqued. Jack up DSM and place two stands at both sides of the frame. Completely remove lug nuts and wheels.
Step 2. Remove your axle Cotter pin and toss it.
Step 3. Now take the 1 1/4 or 32mm socket and your breaker bar and get to work. You need to loosen your axle nut. If you need to have someone stand on the brakes while you're torquing. Once thats done bring your nut just out far enough to where you wont see any threads. tap the axle to loosen it up from the hub. Then completely remove the nut and set aside.
Step 4. Take a 17mm Socket and loosen youre slide pins for your brake caliper, clean them off and set them aside.
Step 5. Remove the caliper from the disc and tie it up with the string or bunji cord to the spring to take the pressure off the brake hose.
Step 6. Take the same 17mm socket and remove the Brake caliper mounting bracket.
Step 7. Remove the rotor with a hammer. If the rotor not come off with ease and you have ABS then follow the hose attatched to your strut to the back side of the assembly. This is your speed sensor. I'm not sure if it is there on nonABS. Anyways, there are two 12mm bolts holding the speed sensor to the hub. Take both of those bolts out and stick them into the two holes provided in your brake disk. Turn them in until each one stops. Once they are in turn each screw 2 turns and then switch until the rotor is off.
Step 8. Take a 17mm socket and a 17mm wrench and remove the two bolts at the bottom of the strut and the top of the hub. After the nuts are off leave the bolts in the holes until further noted.
Step 9. Remove Tie rod cotter pin. Take a 17mm(I THINK!) socket and remove nut. Once the nut and cotter pin are removed take your pickle fork or Ball joint remover and disconnect the tie rod from the hub.
Step 10. Remove top two bolts from strut hub mating point. Remove axle GENTLY from the hub.
Step 11. Remove lower ball joint nut and use pickle fork or equivalent to remove ball joint from hub.
VIOLA! You now have yourself a hub for you to work with.
Now the hard part is getting these bearings off. The easy part is putting them back on.
NOTE: If you have ABS hubs with the speed sensor and all. You do not need to remove the bolts that go into the inner hub. These bolts also stick through your rotor.
BEARING REMOVAL
Step 1. Take AMPRO 3 arm gear remover and use two wrenches you wont mind bending if things go wrong and attach the puller to the inner most side of the hub the best way you can. Most of you wont get it right the first time...I didn't. After that use a large 3/8ths drive socket to press against the smallest ring you see from the other side. Turn the socket upside down and stick the center point of the puller in the circle in the bottom of the socket.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
NOTE: If you have problems turning the nut at the top to press the inner hub out like I did use something SOLID to stick between the lugs to hold it steady. Carefull not to ruin any threads on the lugs. I had my dads jeep with his winch mounting plate available. Threw a towel over that and it worked like a charm.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next after that is off you'll have two pieces. The inner hub and the outer hub.
Step 2. We'll start with the Inner hub.On the Inner hub which is the side with the lugs you'll have the outer race and the outer bearing seal under that. This is very specific to work fast and easy so listen up. Take a TOUGH screw driver and pull the outer seal over as far as it will go.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Stick your screwdriver UNDER the seal and pry it up.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
After your seal looks like above. Go under that from the OPPOSITE SIDE we've been working with and pry backwards. If you need to you can use the OTHER screwdriver on the other side of the axle splines and pry backwards. It will come out I promise.
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