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1G Car shuts off after running...

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TK9er

Proven Member
168
16
Jun 1, 2014
lincoln, Nebraska
I just got back from a 2 month deployment and was excited to drive my car. I was even more excited when it fired right up! I was less excited when it died after a few miles. The car was tuned on e85 before I left. I filled up the tank completely before I left too. I was driving fine then just completely shut off. And didn't want to start again. It would kick over, then die. It did eventually start and I drove it a few more blocks, died again. Was able to start it after a few minutes of trying. It was able to get it back to the garage, but it wasn't happy. It bucked and tried to die. This morning it didn't want to start at all. I checked the fuel pump, it worked. I pulled the line off the rail and fuel came rushing out as I cranked it. The isc tested ok I think (it's the cheap black one, all the coils where in the 40s). It was kind of hot though, which seemed weird. Did a boost leak and no obvious sign of leaking. The ect sensor also seems to be working, good voltage and not reading a crazy number in link. I checked the plugs and they all looked good (similar color and they where not wet). It did start after a few minutes, but it ran at 2900 the whole time. The afrs where good when it was running. I tried adjusting the idle down with the biss (isc position reading was off), but it didn't respond. Checked the tps voltage, it wasn't out of wack, 0.61 I think. Then, it just dropped off and died. I have no clue where to go from here. I was wondering if the injectors got messed up after sitting. I was going to delete the fiav? I don't know. I have a ton of parts to put on this thing I bought when I was gone, but I want to make sure it drives first!

Thanks!
 
It may not help much but have you tried cycling out the E? It doesn't do well when it sits for a period of time. Check your injectorsto see if they're flowing properly. Thats why it's recommended to do a cycle of pump gas to clean whatever gunk Ethanol may leave behind.
Its the only variable I can think of from having a running car to this after 2 months.
 
It may not help much but have you tried cycling out the E? It doesn't do well when it sits for a period of time. Check your injectorsto see if they're flowing properly. Thats why it's recommended to do a cycle of pump gas to clean whatever gunk Ethanol may leave behind.
Its the only variable I can think of from having a running car to this after 2 months.
I was going to pump the stuff out tomorrow probably.
 
You may want to check your map sensor as well. An intermittent faulty map sensor could cause no starts one minute and running fine the next.
how do you test the MAP? It's a new omni 4 bar?
 
how do you test the MAP? It's a new omni 4 bar?
While connected to link, you’ll want to watch what kind of pressures it reads. Most easily you can check with engine off, key on, you should see atmospheric pressure (0.0 psi). If you see -29.8 inHg, link is seeing the sensor as disconnected. Make sure the connections are secure and fiddle with the sensor and wiring just to rule out a poor connection or bad wiring.

Going a little further than that, you can pressurize the system using a boost leak tester and compare the values. If you just want to do a quick check without disconnecting much, you can try to pressurize the sensor with just your mouth and watching on link what happens when you suck vs blow. For a GM-style, just use the vacuum line as if it’s a straw, for a Mitsu-style you’ll need to wrap your mouth around it LOL it’s quick and dirty but it’ll let you know whether something is up.
 
Are your coolant temps looking like they are legit in Link? what injectors do you have? certain large injectors have a problem with alcohol sitting in them, they will flash rust internally.
 
While connected to link, you’ll want to watch what kind of pressures it reads. Most easily you can check with engine off, key on, you should see atmospheric pressure (0.0 psi). If you see -29.8 inHg, link is seeing the sensor as disconnected. Make sure the connections are secure and fiddle with the sensor and wiring just to rule out a poor connection or bad wiring.

Going a little further than that, you can pressurize the system using a boost leak tester and compare the values. If you just want to do a quick check without disconnecting much, you can try to pressurize the sensor with just your mouth and watching on link what happens when you suck vs blow. For a GM-style, just use the vacuum line as if it’s a straw, for a Mitsu-style you’ll need to wrap your mouth around it LOL it’s quick and dirty but it’ll let you know whether something is up.

It was the MAP!!! something must of gotten loose. I wiggled the wires and it would go from good to bad. I took it off and looked everything over. I was curious because I spliced in the Mitsu 4 bar from the link SD cable set, but everything looked good. I put it back on and had the car running for a while as i pulled a wiggled the cord and it never died. I do have a question about the reading. when my car is off the map reads -1.2. What could this be. Oh and my idle is still all over the place, but that is another post :)
 
It was the MAP!!! something must of gotten loose. I wiggled the wires and it would go from good to bad. I took it off and looked everything over. I was curious because I spliced in the Mitsu 4 bar from the link SD cable set, but everything looked good. I put it back on and had the car running for a while as i pulled a wiggled the cord and it never died. I do have a question about the reading. when my car is off the map reads -1.2. What could this be. Oh and my idle is still all over the place, but that is another post :)
Mine sits at -0.2 inHg with the engine off, so I’d chalk it up to not being the best calibration from the factory. Maybe link has a function which can change the zero point or even just offset it?
 
Mine sits at -0.2 inHg with the engine off, so I’d chalk it up to not being the best calibration from the factory. Maybe link has a function which can change the zero point or even just offset it?

Maybe, I ordered the aem 3.5 bar map just in case. You can calibrate that one! I'm just happy the car is running now!
 
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