Car shuting down when I press the cluch in

[jdmfairladyz]

1997 eclipse gsx

Hey guys when I press the cluch in at a stop the RPMs will dip down and then the car will die so I adjusted the idle air screwed and it worked a lot better but now when I am shifting on the move if I have the cluch pressed in for more then a couple if seconds it will die. Also my volts gauge is showing a charge at 17v and the battery light and brake light will pop up on the dash any ideas. The cluch is almost brand new and it is a stage 2 very deep

 

[74runner]

Sounds like the throw out bearing is sticking on the shaft.
Do the lights pop up when you first press the clutch or right when the car dies?
Try this....Start the car in 1st gear and KEEP the clutch pressed to the floor.Be on flat level ground with the break and E-brake off, then rev the car up to 6000-7000rpm.If the car trys to move the clutch is dragging probably because the TOB is stuck against the pressure plate or the master rod is out of adjustment.
One other thought,what is your idle rpm?

 

[19jdmdsm91]

What are you tuning with? Mine did this because of low coast offset setting.
. Check afr when it happens.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You don't happen to have the NLTS box checked on LINK do you??? Just something that was on my mind when you described it. If it is, what is the rpm set at, just check it to make sure.

19jdmdsm91, what did you finally set your coast offset to if I might ask, I need to adjust mine as it occasionally will die when coming to a stop light and I wasn't sure where I should move mine to. I think it is set at 160 right now. I am tuning so I hate to mess with anything until I am done.

 

[curt-s]

A charge of 17 volts indicates your alternator's voltage regulator is on its way out.. an alternator that doesn't function properly can wreak all sorts of havoc.

How would a TOB get stuck against a pressure plate? And how would a TOB stick to the shaft and cause the rpm to drop? Please explain

 

[74runner]

A charge of 17 volts indicates your alternator's voltage regulator is on its way out.. an alternator that doesn't function properly can wreak all sorts of havoc.

How would a TOB get stuck against a pressure plate? And how would a TOB stick to the shaft and cause the rpm to drop? Please explain

"Stuck against a pressure plate" might not be the best description, if the TOB isn't releasing the clutch plate due to excessive wear,damage or rust from sitting the clutch will drag causing RPM drop because the TOB hasn't reached its full throw to fully depress the clutch fingers releasing the friction disk from the flywheel.The TOB is just a bearing riding on a replaceable sleeve (It's replaceable because it can/does get damaged)
TOB's can stick, clips pop off and forks break all the time, a bad slave cylinder/master cylinder, air in the system or a worn clutch pedal assembly or improperly adjusted clutch master cylinder rod and a worn fork or pivot ball can all cause issues.Its even possible that the friction disk could be stuck on the shaft after a few hard launches
I've had 2 stuck TOB's out of the 8 dsm's or so that I've owned over the years.One was from a broken fork causing excessive wear/heat to the inner bearing and shafts sleeve, it actually wore a grove in the sleeve and the bearing was jamming against it.The second stuck bearing was in a car that sat for years and the bearing literally rusted to the shaft but, it might have also been damaged by the previous owner, I might still have pics of that one.So in closing I'll change "Stuck against a pressure plate" to....a TOB thats has been prevented from pushing in the pressure plate fingers all of the way and fully releasing the clutch

 

[curt-s]

Huh, rusted to it. Well, that part I cannot speak to as I've always only considered using OEM throw out bearings which have the plastic sleeve. Honestly, I didn't even know that there existed metal sleeved bearings for the DSM platform

When I had stand-still RPM drop, it was because of a pivot ball shim being too thick and causing excessive extension of the pressure plate fingers. Not enough to contact the springs on the clutch disc itself, but the way I figure it, it caused an exponential increase in load against the crankshaft which the ECU couldn't compensate for fast enough.

Resolution: Removed shim, problem went away. Didn't even have to adjust the MC, though I still did.