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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Also check the thermostat. I know you said its new. Mine was doing the exact same thing and what had happened is a piece of the rubber silicone from the gasket maker some dufod used instead of the gasket had gotten stuck in the spring and wouldnt allow it to open all the way.
 
The thermostat has a small hole to allow coolant to burp on it's own. Sure, I won't hurt to burp it by hand but it should do it on it's own. I know because I have dumped and refilled the coolant on my car several times and never burped it, it has never over heated on me.

The coolant in the bottle should rise when engine is up to normal temp, it's normal. What's not normal is if it rises with bubbles, then that could mean a bad HG.
 
I am having overheating problems with my laser rs. when i am driving the temp is normal but when i am in neutral for to long or just idling or waiting at a light my temp starts to rise but as soon as i start driving it goes back down. What could be causing thjis problem?
 
most likely the fan isnt working, for now turn on the heat until u get it fixed. but also know that the water pump moves at a slow speed when at idle and alot faster when driving so its pulling more coolant there at that point. not to mention your also getting more air flow around the radiator. you should alson check the radiator to make sure that coolant is flowing through properly and that the thermostat is opening like it should
 
I had this problem also, I did a radiator flush and put new coolant in and haven't had a problem since. I was also low on coolant, check that also.
 
Does your electric fan kick on when the car is sitting and idling at operating temperature? It should. Also, if you haven't changed your thermostat lately, its a good time to do so.
 
See if the radiator fan is kicking on when idling and if so def change Thermostat. Don't let temps get high or risk blowing a head gasket or worse. Been there done that with a non-dsm car once. And you DO NOT want to wait for the overheating dummy light to come on because by that time the damage could be done.
 
the fan does kick in so i will try changing the thermostat ASAP and then radiator flush if that does not work.

thanks guys
 
Hi I was reading this thread and have overheating problems as well and since this thread is fairly new i thought id post on this instead of making a new one. I have a 95 GSX that has a 6block swap and 1g trans. has a 35r, punishment racing exhaust manifold, built block, built head. 272 cams , cam gears, pretty much the works. In april I had overheating problems and took it to my shop and they replaced the thermostat and checked all the lines and everything, then the car was fine up until today. I was driving in HEAVY traffic, go 2 feet and have to stop, then 2 more feet...blah blah blah...for about a mile. and I noticed my temp guage started going up, and my light started to flicker back and forth, I pulled into the nearest gas station and checked my coolant and it was full. my fan is working as well. So I decided to jump on the highway to go at cruising speed and the temp guage was fine. I got into my driveway and I have a turbo timer and when i turned my key off the temp guage started going up a lot so I just shut off my car.....I have a huge greddy front mount, new radiator and OEM fan. cost about 80 for the fan. My shop is called Strictly Modified and they only work on DSMs and they redid my whole car....for the low price of 20k...haha....but before I call them and take it back there and have to spend more I was wondering if I could get any feedback and see if its something I can check myself and do myself...thanks. PM me if possible. .....(edit) I also have DSMlink V3 installed.
 
im having the same problem almost. im getting ready to do a thermostat and a new temp sending unit.
 
T-stat is a no brainer because they go bad on every car eventually and if they stick closed car overheats and stuck open car runs too cool. Takes 5 min to change $8 t-stat and alot of people including myself carry a spare one in car just in case.

Can easily test them in heated pot of water with thermometer and watch for it to open between 170-195 degrees depending on your t-stat. Even if you buy a new one save the old one and do the test sometime and if it's good keep it in car as a back-up. Sometimes you can visually see that one is bad if something is broken on it but not usually.
 
I am having a similar problem with mine. i just changed my thermostat (not sure if i put it right) is the air bleed valve suppose to look towards the firewall or the front bumper. Sorry for the newb question LOL.also my fans turn on
 
So I've found another DSM.

$300 for a 93 AWD Talon.
Aside from clear coat pealing it has a very clean body, interior is very clean minus a tear on drivers seat (all leather).

Has motor/tranny/everything except a turbo - which I'd just find a used 14b to slap onto it(if i fixed it)
Car is completely 100% bone stock with 150k.

Supposedly it overheated and cracked the radiator and threw coolant everywhere.
I will probably buy this either way, as I could make much more than $300 just from parting it out most likely. And it'd give me a stock set of wheels with brand new tires for the winter & track. Also some other little things I wouldnt mind my car having like the factory headunit.

However if it'd be relatively simple to fix, I'd fix it and DD it.

Would it most likely just be a warped head? My understanding is that it could of warped the head, blown the headgasket, or detonated the motor itself but the guy just says it overheated.


Thanks for any help
 
Make sure the battery has a good charge and do a compression test on it.
That will give you a good hint if you'll need to tear into it or not.
I have had many "overheating" occasions with no adverse effects due to failing radiator hoses, turbo coolant lines, tstats, etc.
The 4g63 seems to be a little more forgiving in that department, than say an old 3.8l Ford, LOL
 
Thanks for the responses guys!
No I haven't even gone to look at it yet, just wanted to have a bit more ideas in mind for when I go.
I'll definitely do a compression test.

Thanks guys, if anyone else has any tips/ideas for me when I go, let me know!
 
>> Make sure the spark plug chambers aren't filled with water.

The GSX I just bought wasn't firing right at all, pulled the wires, and BAM.. couldn't see the plugs.

I'd say if it starts, doesn't smoke, and doesn't leak anywhere... and the compression is decent... grab it. $300... you could easily triple your money even if the thing needs work. Or, just fix it and have a cheapy.
 
Definitely do a compression check. The guy may say that it only overheated. But, if you don't have compression, pull the top timing cover off and check the timing belt and see if its broke, loose or missing teeth. It only takes a couple of minutes to pull the top timing cover.
 
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