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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Funny that you say that, I just went and opened up my hood and my coolant bottle was tipped over and the lid fell of some how so all the coolant going to the overflow was spilling out onto my MAS!! That could explain my sputtery/jumpy idle.

Thanks guys
 
You might want to rebuild the motor. its not too much more expensive. but if you just wanted to fix the problem. then fix the head gasket. if the rings are bad that would not be fun to just throw a headgasket in and shave the head. At least shave the head and add new gaskets, if you want more, then rebuild the head, or rebuild the whole motor.
 
same thing happend to me the other weak.. i noticed that my radiator was mysteriously loosing water so i did everything u did and noticed that my radiator cap wasnt holdin any pressure ...so it was letting the water out threw the overflow containor.. since i put the new cap it hasnt overheated since////hope this helps
 
I think from your compression readings it would definatly be something wrong with your headgasket or rings. Ask them to poor a little oil in there and see if the compression goes back up.
 
I think from your compression readings it would definatly be something wrong with your headgasket or rings. Ask them to poor a little oil in there and see if the compression goes back up.

Thats a good idea. I think there is a vfaq on that. It says how much oil to drop in. dont put too much or your car will burn oil for a good while.
 
A lot of people just put a cap full of oil in each cylinder and just crank it again and see if the compression goes up. If it does your rings are toast but if not could be headgasket or valves. In your case it would be your headgasket because your overheating. Get that checked out.
 
yeah i did that when i first got the car.
i know from last time that i did the compression test that those two rings were kinda worn but i thought i could get away with it.
since it overheated i havent checked on that..

oh one more thing there's white smoke coming from the exhaust i think is coolant and oil because when i would check both were half gone..

rings are bad, headgasket, ????
any thoughts?
 
Well A couple of days again my bottom rad hose blew, no biggie, changed it out, start my car and huge clouds of smoke are pouring out of exhaust. BLOWN HG!!! Its not for certain I still need to compression test, it just seems like a waste of time tho, I am fed up with the car, dunno what I am going to do seeing how I just put 2k into her, I love DSM's and always will so I think its time for a strip/BUILD!!!
 
Hey I have searched and couldn't find my answer for this.
I have a 1g with stock radiator and t-stat. When the motor got rebuilt they did the t-belt and water pump and alternator, LOL but not the balance shaft eliminator go figure.
So I know its not the pump, it is leaking from the from by the crossmember meets the front engine mount. I go to add coolant and there is never anything in the housing but it is full in the reservoir. Idk what to do from here, do I do the t-stat and add some stuff to stop the leak in the radiator? I think the radiator may be done for so I may have to replace it but I don't want to spend $200 when I can spend $5 for a t-stat. I just want to be sure on what I'm replacing here.
 
1-Pull radiator out and give it a good flushing out with the garden hose. AMAZING how much crud and rust can plug things up in there. Then, while you have the radiator and t-stat out, flush out the block while your at it.

"X-nay" on the "stop leak" crap .. DSM's hate that stuff.

2- Change out T-stat with one that is made for your DSM ..

3- Get you a new radiator cap. 13lb cap is what you need.

4- Fill with 50/50 mix with distilled water to top it off.

Best tips to get back on the road.
 
You need to fix the leak on the tube that connects your water pump and the thremostat housing (the metal tube that is behind your exhaust manifold). If it is leaking so bad that your coolant system is never full then it is also letting in air and losing the pressure from the radiator cap which explains why your over flow tank is always full, this loss in pressure would also lower the boiling point of your coolant mixture due to the loss of the pressure that is created by the radiator cap. But this would only be the case if the leak was very bad.
 
Thank you all for the help, what would explain the leak on the crossmember by the engine mount though? The hose was loose at the t-stat housing and I reconnected that.
There is also oil coming out by the PS pump, i can tell its my mobil 1 synthetic and there is about a quart of it on my floor in my garage now. Loose turbo oil line? Double gasketed the oil filter? It didn't seem like that though because it was still tight, idk anymore it seems to be one thing after another with this car. :mad: But a flow of oil coming out now after coolant was leaking I just don't know, I don't think the guy that owned this thing before me was all that bright LOL.
any help is appreciated.

:edit: sorry for those that helped it will not allow me to give rep points
 
Lol thanks DSM my patience is running thin, but its a project car for a reason. Plus I can't complain with the price of the car, trailor, gas, and food that day it was $450 all together. ROFL
The oil filter was not the problem, I'm thinking it has to be either a turbo oil feed line, or something is seriously F'ed up WTF
 
well i am having this same problem

i had a NT thermostat but now i have a turbo thermostat

i am getting a new block and crank for the 6 bolt swap i am going to flush out the block and is there any freeze plugs near the oil filter housing because if not then my block is cracked i am really baffled
i hope it isnt a cracked block please help
 
The oil leak problem has been narrowed down I think.
It could be one of two things, the oil filter could have been double gasketed(doubtful)
the turbo oil return line could have ruptured? the line that goes back by the oil filter is the one I am having problems with I think.
any suggestions?
 
One common source of a water pump leak is the o-ring not installed properly. You must replace the o-ring in the crossover inlet pipe by putting it on the pipe end first, coating with coolant, and then insert pipe with o-ring into water pump – do not put the o-ring into water pump first as it will not seat properly and will leak.
Also do not use RTV on the water pipe. The o-ring does the job of sealing the water pipe to the pump housing and doesn't need anything else. The RTV will reduce it's ability to seal and flex and can actually create ways for the coolant to leak. Make sure that the water pipe is free of any corrosion where the o-ring sits and that the o-ring is lubed with coolant before putting the pump on so it isn't cut or torn. Take a scotch brite pad (the green kitchen scrubbers) and polish the water pipe end if necessary. Use a new o-ring. Make sure you don't scratch the inside of the water pump.

Other coolant leak ideas: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/233476-finding-coolant-leaks-tips-tricks.html
 
One common source of a water pump leak is the o-ring not installed properly. You must replace the o-ring in the crossover inlet pipe by putting it on the pipe end first, coating with coolant, and then insert pipe with o-ring into water pump – do not put the o-ring into water pump first as it will not seat properly and will leak.
Also do not use RTV on the water pipe. The o-ring does the job of sealing the water pipe to the pump housing and doesn't need anything else. The RTV will reduce it's ability to seal and flex and can actually create ways for the coolant to leak. Make sure that the water pipe is free of any corrosion where the o-ring sits and that the o-ring is lubed with coolant before putting the pump on so it isn't cut or torn. Take a scotch brite pad (the green kitchen scrubbers) and polish the water pipe end if necessary. Use a new o-ring. Make sure you don't scratch the inside of the water pump.

Other coolant leak ideas: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/233476-finding-coolant-leaks-tips-tricks.html

Thanks for the info luv2rallye and everyone else it has helped alot. Any suggestions on the oil leak? Could it be the turbo return line?
Any help is appreciated. :talon::talon::talon:
 
Well A couple of days again my bottom rad hose blew, no biggie, changed it out, start my car and huge clouds of smoke are pouring out of exhaust. BLOWN HG!!! Its not for certain I still need to compression test, it just seems like a waste of time tho, I am fed up with the car, dunno what I am going to do seeing how I just put 2k into her, I love DSM's and always will so I think its time for a strip/BUILD!!!

stuff like that happen bro I rebuilt the engine on this one like three months ago and is currently sitting in the parking lot because the whole wiring harness got burned and I cant find it almost nowhere
keep us updated in the rebuild:thumb:
 
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