Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[98 Mits GS-T]

The thermostat opens and closes, its a brand new one. I just replaced the timing belt and water pump yesterday and went for a test drive but it still overheats at 70. And on top of that I think the belt is a tooth off now, it runs really rough and has an intermittent miss. Took me forever to get the marks lined up and I think once I put tension on the belt it turned the crank and the oil pump pulleys but not the cams. Anyways, I think about the only thing left is the radiator and instead of taking it to the local radiator shop to get it rodded out I was thinking about getting an aftermarket aluminum radiator.

 

[h8r]

1-800-RADIATOR. On your porch in minutes, and very reasonable.

Be careful with them, I purchased one for my F body and the drain #### was busted off.

 

[Defiant]

They're fully guaranteed. Did you turn it in?

 

[Splitpi]

I'm putting a water pump and timing belt on this weekend. I will get back to you guys on how the old pump looked and whether or not it is still overheating.

Don't forget (new):
The Balance Shaft Belt
Balance Shaft Belt Tensioner Pulley
Idler Pulley
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
Timing Belt Tensioner (hydraulic)

If you are going to do the work of a timing belt, do it right and put new pulleys, new tensioner, new belts and new water pump. You will thank yourself in the future.

 

[h8r]

They're fully guaranteed. Did you turn it in?

Yea, they sent me another... It was for a 93-97 not 98-02... Needless to say I sent that back, got a refund and got the SLP rad. They had decent customer service but a good product (correct in condition or proper fit) never arrived.

 

[chilled]

Put a thermostat back in. Without a thermostat, the coolant will actually be moving so fast that it wont have a chance to take part in the heat transfer process from the air going through the radiator. You will at least need some sort of restricter plate because this is definitely hurting you.

 

[TOONAH]

Well here is my take on your problem.
1. The man is right> The coolant has to be pressurized to 14 PSI or the water will boil.
2. By your discriptions that is what is happening, your water is boiling. So replace the fill cap.
3. Try adding Redline WaterWetter® to the water.
4. If your headgasket was leaking coolant into a cylinder you would be blowing steam out of your exhaust pipe. Conversely and rarely it can blow exhaust gas into the coolant.
5. Are you certain that the belt is not slipping noiselessly on the water pump pulley? Perhaps the water is not circulating enough, even though the pump is new. Slipping belt. It may seem that the pulley is spinning but because it is slipping noiselessly, you wouldn't know. Tighten the belt.
6. Is your motor running lean? In other words is your motor overheating for some other reason?
Lack of lubrication for example? Is the oil pressure OK?
Boiling water may be the symptom but the cause could be an overheating motor.

 

[kris_stewart10]

okay my car is overheating after driving it about 4 miles but its not enough to melt my head its a little below or on the first H mark i mean and my fan doesnt come on but is there any way to make both of my fans to turn on same time and i need help on how to fix my heating problem and my car wont start unless its on the hot mark and even then when we first start it up we either have to jump it off or push it to start it i and it overheats other than that i am super pissed i wish i could stop the overheating


i really need the help

 

[TOONAH]

Hey man,
an overheating engine is a serious thing. For starters do not drive it anymore until you isolate and prove out the problem. You could be doing the engine irreparable damage.
Causes of overheating:
1. Failure of cooling system. Symptoms: Coolant not circulating. Water pump leaking?
2. Failure of lubrication system. Symptoms: Oil pump failure. Low oil pressure?
3. Engine running lean/timing off. Symptoms: Misfire into intake.
4. Blown head gasket. White smoke (steam) from exhaust. Oil in coolant, coolant in oil.
5. Restriction in exhaust system. Symptoms: Rough idle, loss of power.
Hope this gives you somewhere to start.
On the lighter side, I have never heard of a cylinder head melting, what happens is that it warps and the head gasket seal will blow (leak).

 

[dsmgearheadtune]

id say that your head gasket is blown and you probly have a short in your wires for your fan and you can get em to start at the same time if you rewire then on the same curcuit because they both have there own relay on them and that might be out since they dont run, and if you have to puch start your car to get it started you might have to either change your starter or your crank postioning censor i had that same problem and i had to change my crank censor and it had a short in my wires and it just kept blownin my coil

 

[Pure_Power65]

as toonah said check those things out. your lucky at least you cane get somewhere before it overheats i go around my block and im overheating and im running no thermostat right now just to check. i have already replaced my waterpump, flushed out whole system and put new anti freeze, nothing! i dont even see and smoke coming out of anywhere and no mixed fluids. but hope you have better luck then me. next thing im going to do is buy a new rad with 2 fans instaed of one

 

[kris_stewart10]

well see thats what i am doing i have that same problem i think my temp gauge is off maybe????

i dont have mixed fluids

i am not sure if its recirculating

its not leaking

i have a rough ass idle

i think i need a new MAF sensor

 

[Pure_Power65]

that shouldnt explain your overheating. i was running no filter on mine and cooland got everywhere even in my MAF. try taking out your thermostat and let it idle up it should idle better. mine didafter i took it out. i think my gauge is off also when i start the car from a cold start it reads already warmed up

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

It is not recommended to run the car with NO thermostat installed. If you can, install a lower temp thermostat and troubleshoot from there, then install a stock one. Check for leaks first, heater hoses, radiator hoses, radiator leaks, the FIAV and their hoses and your pressure cap. Replace all defective components and perform flush and fill. Your fans should kick on at about 192 and go back off at around 189. Check your fuses to see if your fan relay and temp sensor are getting power. You can jumper the relay in the fuse box with some 16awg wire just to test things out. The manual will tell you how.

 

[dsmgearheadtune]

ya you def dont want to run with no thermostat, it wont run at the ""operating temp"" then, do the easy cheap things, trouble shoot and then move on to the more exspensive things

 

[Pure_Power65]

yea the fun things right?

 

[Colt90tsi]

Well guys after my alum rad with 2 12" slim fan install my car keeps overheating.

Here is the scoop, for the first 20 minutes of driving it, it will operate at normal temp but after the 20 minutes the gauge will start to rise, now it will get up to the the mark right before the red mark, but when I downshift or speed up the needle will shoot back down to almost operating temp, it seems like when im cruzin at 2k-2.5k rpm is when it starts to shoot up, it will do this repeatedly until I stop then it will go all the up to red mark.

I am going to do a compression test in the morning and go from there, I just wanted to get some input from the PRO's on what you guys think could maybe be the problem.

Any help is apperciated!!

Thanks!

 

[gsturbo02]

have u checked ## thermostat?

 

[DSM1G90]

have you cleaned/flushed out the radiator, and do you have enough air flow going through the radiator?

 

[Colt90tsi]

have u checked ## thermostat?

Thermostat was my guess is well, I will be replacing that 2morrow. Do you think I could pick one up at AUTOZONE,SCHUCKS??

have you cleaned/flushed out the radiator, and do you have enough air flow going through the radiator?

The radiator is 2 days old.

 

[96mitsugsx]

Check your thermostat. Did you bleed the cooling system properly? There might be air in the system. Keep in mind that air in the system causes overheating.

 

[Colt90tsi]

Check your thermostat. Did you bleed the cooling system properly? There might be air in the system. Keep in mind that air in the system causes overheating.

Right, thanks for the quick replys guys.

I did not bleed the system actually, what would be the proper procedure in doing so?

 

[Colt90tsi]

nvm, searched

Thanks guys I apperciate it!

 

[TOONAH]

What is your oil pressure at idle?
An engine with 140K + can have low oil pressure due to worn main bearings. Such engines tend to overheat due to lack of oil pressure in the cylinder head. Least that happened on an old Escort I had once. Then the head warped on me and blew the head gasket. Steam cleaned the bugger.

 

[96mitsugsx]

How did it go? Did you fix the problem yet? FYI if there's air in the system, the thermostat won't open.